car starts then stalls out - Chrysler 300C Forum: 300C & SRT8 Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-26-2008, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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car starts then stalls out

All right I have a 2005 300c with 62,000 miles. Three days ago my wife was starting the car and it would start like normal then about two seconds later the engine would shut off. The car still had power as all the electronics still was fine. When the engine stalled it was like the key was turned off no hesitation or stuttering. But if I give it some throttle when I fire the engine it won't stall. After it runs everything seems to be ok. My first thought is bad fuel or dirty injectors, But as long as I have had the car I have only used fuel with techron in it and stay away from the cheap stuff also only use 88 or 89 octane. I do not top off when filling up also. I hope this is not the fuel tank TSB. I plan on using all the gas in the tank and refilling before I bring my car to get checked out. Please help if anyone has had this problem or knows what it is. Thanks
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-26-2008, 03:21 PM
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Hi mate, at first I thought it was your key, espicially when you said that it stalls after a few seconds but reading later on that if you rev it while you are starting it they it seems to run OK. Click on the link below and try this for us like Mako says, could be quite possible that your throttle position sensor needs calibrating, seeing that you say it won't run at idle but will with a few extra revs, just seems odd but try this out when you can and let us know what happens

Red Lightning Bolt (Moved)

Throttle Calibration

Throttle calibration can substantially improve throttle responsiveness over "factory standard." Many people notice what appears to be sluggish throttle response or a "dead area" at initial accelerator depression. Throttle calibration can take care of these.
1) Insert ignition key and turn to "ON" (not start).
2) Wait for all idiot lights to go out. Check Engine Light may remain on.
3) Slowly depress the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor.
4) Slowly release the accelerator pedal until it's all the way back up.
5) Turn the ignition key to "OFF".
6) Start the engine.
Most drivers notice an immediate change in throttle response, but depending on your driving style, you may need to repeat this procedure periodically due to the computer's adaptive programming. You likely need to repeat this procedure any time the battery is disconnected.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-26-2008, 03:28 PM
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I'm certainly not an expert but it's possible your situation is battery related rather than fuel just from your description.

Your battery is older and it's possible it doesn't have all that much juice. Do you know how to check for the strength in the EVIC?

Also, you might want to clean your battery terminals if needed and/or make sure your battery cables are tight.

Try checking to see if any codes show up.
Here are the well known instructions for doing what's known as the 'Key Dance' for codes:

-"ON" is just far enough to turn on all warning lights, but not enough to start
-"Off" is just far enough back to turn those off
-This should be done quickly, maybe 3-5 seconds for the turns, with doors closed:

1. Insert key
2. Rotate key to ON
3. Rotate key OFF
4. On
5. Off
6. ON

Keep us informed of your results.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-26-2008, 06:05 PM
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Where do the results appear Bruno??
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-26-2008, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wog boy View Post
Where do the results appear Bruno??
The stored codes will appear immediately in place of where the odometer is located.

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-26-2008, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, Wog Boy I gave that a try and after I went through steps then started the car I fired like normal then hesitated then jumped to about 2k rpm's then settled at 600 rps and struggled for about 3 seconds then stabalized. After I posted this I went out shopping and dinner and the car didn't have any problems starting. I turned it on about 4 times between stops. It has been 30 degrees to 10 degrees F. here so I am woundering if I have some water in my fuel system. About the battery I really don't think that is the problem because there is no hesitation when the ignition starts and no visible power loss with the headlights, but I am no mechanic what so ever. And will go through Bruno's steps tomarrow. Thanks for you guys input.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-09-2014, 07:33 AM
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Sorry to reopen this thread but wanted to know what happened. They guy said he was going to try but never came back. I am having the exact same issue with my 2006 HEMI. I took it to the dealership where I am and they said they couldn't replicate the issue which I know for sure is a lie. They did, however, manage to break my gearbox and I ended up having to fix at my own expense! Anyway, this issue started only after they cleaned my throttle body. I told them that so they said they cleaned it again and reprogrammed but still the issue is there. I need help or I may end up hating Chrysler (more than I already due to the dealerships disappointing customer treatment) and just throwing the car away as no one will buy it with this stupid fault.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-09-2014, 08:41 AM
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Garage
Is your Check Engine Light lit up?

Michael
2006 300C SRT8
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-09-2014, 08:45 AM
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The TB may need to be recalibrated, and the process stated at the beginning of this thread does not do it. You need someone with a starscan, witech, or autoenginuity software to complete the recalibration.

2012 300SRT--Mods so far....CMR tune from Toona, tinted taillights, Kooks LTs and high flow cats, Comp274 cam, GTHaus catback, Mopar lowering springs, HIDs in the driving lights, tinted windows, LMI true CAI, and a bunch of BT bling.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-09-2014, 01:23 PM
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There is no light at all showing and the dealership checked by their computer and couldn't find any errors. I checked it in an outside shop and he too said no errors. I changed one coil that was said to be faulty, but still stalls. It stalls after the RPM goes down right after I start it but if I start it and drive real quick, nothing happens and the car is fine. New spark plugs, throttle checked and reprogrammed, no errors on computer check and no warning lights. My battery is 2 years old but working fine. Shouldn't there be a warning light if battery is faulty or low on power?
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