ESP & BAS light came on this morning.... it also came on about a week ago. After it came on, I pushed the ESP button to see if i can shut it off, but nothing happened. I stopped the car, and turned it off, then restarted the engine, the light went away. What is going on? is this common?
Also CEL came on yesterday, and i did not know you can use the EVIC to read codes, so i took off the negative leed to the battery to reset it. I have driven the car for about 60+ miles today, and no CEL. I have he T-stat mod, and I just did the resonator delete this weekend, could the RES Delete be an issue? I have read about the T-stats sometimes tripping the CEL.
Thanks
you can retrieve the codes thru the EVIC by doing the "key dance".
3 times on and off rapidly ending 'on', and the EVIC will scroll thru the codes for you.
The thermostat will throw a code if you do not reach 180 degrees quickly enough.
ESP BAS lights came on again... i notice when you turn to ACC there is a BAS ESP light then a seperate ESP light..... well the ESP light when you press the button is on then a BAS light. when i did the easter egg i went to the last chime screen which said BAS ESP VM... something? i cant remember. i pullded the codes and got nothing but a DoNe. Is my ESP going BAD?
i've had this happen a bunch of times before too. the only thing to make it go away is just turning off the car and then turning it back on. i'm stumpped on the what/why also????
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My car does the same every once in a while. If I shut it off and restart, the light is off. It has been this way for along time, only happens infrequently and always disappears after the restart so I just don't worry about it.
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my car had the same lights on this past winter. i think mine was worse, it hade those lights and on top of that it was studdering like crazy, and at time it would not turn on. after alot of research i decided to replace my crank sensor and the codes have not appeared (p0016: Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation - Bank 1 Sensor A; p0339: Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Intermittent) and the esp&bas lights are gone and my car runs like normal again....... thats my experience, hopfully that might help. the part is only 25$ and its easy to install.
It does go off everytime I restart... I was in the drive-thru yesterday and I heard a whining noise that sounded like a power steering pump whine, and it would get louder the more I applied the throttle. So I was playing with the throttle, and then I noticed the lights. Could that whine be a pump for the ESP? But then again there is no pulley with the ESP, so why would it get louder with the applied throttle.
2005 300C 5.7L same thing EAS light CEL,P0339 Crankshaft Position Sensor intermittant. Made appointment at dealership and found out my 7/70 warranty would'nt cover it so I bought the $25 part jacked up the passenger side of the car and wiggled my fat butt under to the starter (after disconnecty batt cable) removed three 15mm bolts on the front of the starter and pushed it out of the way and oopa the sensor is right behind where the starter was against the block. One 10mm bolt and after disconnecting the connector she wiggles out. When installing the new one rub a small amount of engine oil on the o-ring an wiggle it in all the way so you dont crack it when reinstalling the 10mm. Slide the stater back and intall the three bolts, reconnect the batt, reset/erase the codes and run her like you stole it. WOW what power!!! took about an hour and saved me $90 diagnostic fee plus part plus 1.5 hours labor or about $265. The strange thing is the dealer wanted $25 for the part but AutoZone was $119 and Advance auto parts wanted $125 go figure dealer cheapest...
Last edited by Scott3708 : 06-16-2009 at 03:31 PM.
2005 300C 5.7L same thing EAS light CEL,P0339 Crankshaft Position Sensor intermittant. Made appointment at dealership and found out my 7/70 warranty would'nt cover it so I bought the $25 part jacked up the passenger side of the car and wiggled my fat butt under to the starter (after disconnecty batt cable) removed three 15mm bolts on the front of the starter and pushed it out of the way and oopa the sensor is right behind where the starter was against the block. One 10mm bolt and after disconnecting the connector she wiggles out. When installing the new one rub a small amount of engine oil on the o-ring an wiggle it in all the way so you dont crack it when reinstalling the 10mm. Slide the stater back and intall the three bolts, reconnect the batt, reset/erase the codes and run her like you stole it. WOW what power!!! took about an hour and saved me $90 diagnostic fee plus part plus 1.5 hours labor or about $265. The strange thing is the dealer wanted $25 for the part but AutoZone was $119 and Advance auto parts wanted $125 go figure dealer cheapest...
couldnt have said it better myself... i say you try it OP
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