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Old 07-17-2008, 07:26 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daddy Kool View Post
This is a gem of a post guys. Thank you. I've ordered a '09 Chally SRT and this is an eye opener. Are drilled rotors a good idea? I seem to remember hearing something like they warp easily?
Properly drilled rotors are OK for street and autocross use. The drilling offers a slight weight savings (about 1/4 to 1/3 pound per rotor), slightly better wet braking reaction time, and increased bite and slightly higher friction level than plain rotors. Drilled rotors also make your pads perform more consistently over their lifetime, by keeping a fresh surface exposed, preventing any buildup of glazing that would reduce friction levels if they were ever overheated. However, under competitive conditions (racing, open track days, high speed driving schools) they are more prone to cracking than plain or slotted rotors.

Since slotted rotors have almost all the same advantages, without the cracking issues, most high performance drivers should opt for slotted rotors.

There are lots of myths about drilled rotors, including the "warping" you've mentioned. Some people say they have less surface area than plain rotors, thus they are lower performance. Some vendors claim significantly improved cooling. All of this is false. Drilling is used for increased bite, higher friction level, weight savings, improved pad consistency, and quicker wet braking reaction time.
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Old 07-17-2008, 11:38 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Not sure who said it but this quote sums up my experience with DaveZ and his company: "only an enthusiastic professional can offer another enthusiastic professional what he really wants".


I didn't even buy anything from the guy and he bends over backward to help out.

Every dime I spend on performance brakes in the future will be spent with Zeckhausen.

Thanks again for everything Dave!
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Old 07-17-2008, 12:50 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Dave is top notch. Not only in our forums but in many others. I remember 2 years ago when I had my silver 300c srt8 I called him to buy posi-quiet pads. We ended up speaking for over a hour about brakes. The only reason we got off the phone was for him to get my pads to fedex so I can have them the following day or we would have probably still been on the phone.


To sum him up in two words.... class act!
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Old 07-23-2008, 07:24 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Click here and be astounded.

Cherokee SRT8 Forum - View Single Post - SRT Engineers Chat Session - 7/23/08 6pm - 8pm EST

This guy should work at a dealership.

Apparently I am overreacting???

Had I forced those pistons back in and put in the new pads those brakes would not have functioned correctly. It's not like I was or am looking for freebies.

If my calipers failed, which clearly they did, that means others will fail with fewer miles.

I am astounded by the lack of communication here. Even a simple, "We'll take a look at this." or "Thanks for the heads up, we'll check with the dealers and see if they have had any issues that we are unaware of."

Wow. Not the way I would deal with the situation if I were talking with a customer while hundreds of other customers look on.

Sad.
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Old 07-23-2008, 07:33 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Yeah, can't say I was impressed with any of the answers they gave on your issue. It's as if they blew the problem off.

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Old 07-24-2008, 07:36 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Not only did they do a terrible job at answering your question or even showing interest in it they totally lied to us...
quoted by srt engineers "At SRT the top speed of the vehicle is limited by the laws of physics, not by computer limits."
That is a complete lie and have been proven through the diablo and my high speed test. When I called them on it over their someone deleted my post. Nice job ekool . Guess you can't disagree with the srt engineers in his world (forums).
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Old 07-24-2008, 10:52 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Yeah, my last post was deleted as well.
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Old 07-24-2008, 09:16 PM   #28 (permalink)
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After looking at the pics again I don't agree this is surface corrosion and it's much deeper than that. I don't profess to know anything about brakes, but it got me to thinking if there was a possibility that the fluid itself could be a contributing factor.

Going through the service manual it appears the brake fluid is DOT3. There's no difference in brake fluid from base models up to the SRT8's. This seems a little odd that a "performance" braking system would be using the same brake fluid as is used on all other models. I also found it's only the Brembo calipers that can't be rebuilt, which seems odd to me.

I got curious what the different fliuds were so I did a little research on the characteristics and the advantages/disadvantages of the fluids in use today which are:
  • DOT3
  • DOT4
  • DOT5
  • DOT5.1

DOT3
DOT3 brake fluid is the "conventional" brake fluid used in most vehicles.

Advantages
  • DOT3 fluid is inexpensive, and available at most gas stations, department stores, and any auto parts store.
Disadvantages
  • DOT3 will damage natural rubber brake seals and should not be used in any car suspected of having natural rubber seals.
  • DOT3 fluid eats paint!
  • DOT3 fluid absorbs water very readily. (This is often referred to as being hydroscopic.) As such, once a container of DOT3 has been opened, it should not be stored for periods much longer than a week before use.
  • Since DOT3 fluid absorbs water, any moisture absorbed by the fluid can encourage corrosion in the brake lines and cylinders.

DOT4
DOT4 brake fluid is the brake fluid suggested for use in late model cars. The most familiar brand is "Castrol GT-LMA"

Advantages
  • DOT4 fluid is available at most auto parts stores, and at some (but not all) gas stations or department stores.
  • DOT4 fluid does not absorb water as readily as DOT3 fluid.
  • DOT4 fluid has a higher boiling point than DOT3 fluid, making it more suitable for high performance applications where the brake systems are expected to get hot.
Disadvantages
  • DOT4 fluid eats paint! Small leaks around the master cylinder will eventually dissolve away the paint on your bodywork in the general vicinity of the leak, and then give rust a chance to attack the body of your car!
  • DOT4 fluid is generally about 50% more expensive than DOT3 fluid.
  • Since DOT4 fluid still absorbs some water, any moisture absorbed by the fluid can encourage corrosion in the brake lines and cylinders.

DOT5
DOT5 brake fluid is also known as "silicone" brake fluid.

Advantages
  • DOT5 doesn't eat paint.
  • DOT5 does not absorb water and may be useful where water absorption is a problem.
  • DOT5 is compatible with all rubber formulations.
Disadvantages
  • DOT5 does NOT mix with DOT3 or DOT4. Most reported problems with DOT5 are probably due to some degree of mixing with other fluid types. The best way to convert to DOT5 is to totally rebuild the hydraulic system.
  • Reports of DOT5 causing premature failure of rubber brake parts were more common with early DOT5 formulations. This is thought to be due to improper addition of swelling agents and has been fixed in recent formulations.
  • Since DOT5 does not absorb water, any moisture in the hydraulic system will "puddle" in one place. This can cause localized corrosion in the hydraulics.
  • Careful bleeding is required to get all of the air out of the system. Small bubbles can form in the fluid that will form large bubbles over time. It may be necessary to do a series of bleeds.
  • DOT5 is slightly compressible (giving a very slightly soft pedal), and has a lower boiling point than DOT4.
  • DOT5 is about twice as expensive as DOT4 fluid. It is also difficult to find, generally only available at selected auto parts stores.

DOT5.1
DOT5.1 is a relatively new brake fluid that is causing no end of confusion amongst mechanics. The DOT could avoid a lot of confusion by giving this new fluid a different designation. The 5.1 designation could lead one to believe that it's a modification of silicone-based DOT 5 brake fluid. Calling it 4.1 or 6 might have been more appropriate since it's a glycol-based fluid like the DOT 3 and 4 types, not silicone-based like DOT 5 fluid. (In fact, Spectro is marketing a similar new fluid which they are calling Supreme DOT 4, which seems less confusing.)

As far as the basic behavior of 5.1 fluids, they are much like "high performance" DOT4 fluids, rather than traditional DOT5 brake fluids.

Advantages
  • DOT5.1 provides superior performance over the other brake fluids. It has a higher boiling point, either dry or wet, than DOT 3 or 4. In fact, its dry boiling point (about 275 degrees C) is almost as high as racing fluid (about 300 degrees C) and 5.1's wet boiling point (about 175 to 200 degrees C) is naturally much higher than racing's (about 145 C).
  • DOT5.1 is said to be compatible with all rubber formulations.
Disadvantages
  • DOT5.1 fluids (and Spectro's Supreme DOT4) are non-silicone fluids and will absorb water.
  • DOT5.1 fluids, like DOT3 & DOT4 will eat paint.
  • DOT 5.1 fluids are difficult to find for sale, typically at very few auto parts stores, mostly limited to "speed shops."
  • DOT 5.1 will be more expensive than DOT3 or DOT4, and more difficult to find.
--------------------------

The DOT3 caught my eye in that it readily absorbs water and is known to cause corrosion of brake lines and cylinders. It may not be the primary cause, but logic tells me it could quite possibly be a contributing factor.

The next eye opener for me was DOT4 is apparently MORE SUITABLE for high performance applications. That got me to thinking I thought the SRT8 brakes were supposed to be just that.

My conclusion with the limited knowledge I have at hand leads me to believe that a more suitable fluid to be using would be either DOT4 or DOT5.1 and that perhaps this is what should have been used all along.

I'm hoping DaveZ will comment on this and offer his input. It also kinda reminds me of the coolant formulation that caused all the corrosion in 2006.

Bernie
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Old 07-24-2008, 11:47 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Just as an FYI this is the fluid I went with: DOT 3 & 4 Brake Fluid

I used two full 32oz. cans flushing the system and then bleeding it.

Last edited by skeletonizer : 07-24-2008 at 11:49 PM.
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Old 07-31-2008, 12:49 AM   #30 (permalink)
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I too had to replace the rear shoes at 28K. The shoes showed the same wear pattern / taper / bevel. The fronts still have 6mm. I didn't notice any issues with the caliper.
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