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Old 11-21-2007, 10:04 PM   #1 (permalink)
GoofyTimL
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Car: '07 MSRT8 Bright Silver; '06 H.E. 300C Inferno Red MSRT: AirHammer, OptGrp 1, UCon, ACW flaps, Stealth Bulbs, 22elite armrests/console, pin stripes H.E.: ProtectGrpII, RearVES, Sunroof, UCon, Sirius, ACW flaps/Eng. cowl, 22elite armrests/VES cover
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HOW TO Install Stealth Auto HID Fog Lights in a 2007 Magnum SRT8

This also will be submitted to the Tech section... but first again here. I would like to thank Aaron for another opportunity to work out an install pictorial with their top-notch HIDs. So here goes...


Installation of 6000K HID Fog Lights (H10 equivalent)
from Stealth Auto, Inc.,
into a 2007 Magnum SRT8


The package arrived by FedEx, a box labeled DDM in an over-pack. It looks so much like the package for their 9006-equivalent HIDs I didn't bother taking a picture of it.

Inside the over-pack were: two Capacitor assemblies

Inside the DDM box were:
No nstructions (doesnt matter now that you have this)
Two 35W Ballast assemblies with connected 35W Ignitors
Two H10-equivalent HID assemblies with moisture seals and auxiliary power cords (both of which aren't needed)
Two ceramic-coated capacitors with OEM-like power couplings, one female and the other male.
One zip-lock baggie with
two foam core double-sided adhesive pads, (white/yellow). I could use one more of these for good measure)
and misc. small white cable ties

Here's the ballasts and ignitors:


Here's the way the lights come packaged with the other power cord and moisture seal:


After pulling the power cord OUT of the rubber seal, you can use it for whatever you want. You won't need it for this install!




The Magnum SRT8 Conversion Project, from Halogen fog bulbs to 35W 6000K HID Fogs:
Does it take gearhead skill/experience? NO!
Should you read these instructions? YES… Of course!!
If I can do it… so can you!!


Getting Started:
Layout the hardware, as in the image above and be sure
that you have everything, and know what each piece is. Throughout this install ensure that you never touch the halogen, or HID bulb glass with your fingers! I wore some latex rubber gloves (blue).

Removing the HID bulbs from their hard plastic protective enclosures is much easier than with the HID headlight bulbs because there is no thick power connector to go through the plastic base (IF you pull out the power cord before hand).

Carefully put the car up on some ramps so you have room to manuveur underneath. Set the parking brake once you've positioned the car, For extra security, place a chock behind the rear tires.

This is what my Magnum SRT8 looked like with 6000k HIDs, but regular halogen fogs. Now you know WHY I wanted to do this mod! LOL
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In love with my first wife and first car ('68 Charger) ... still have the wife, but now there's the Heritage Edition and a Magnum SRT8!

Last edited by GoofyTimL : 11-21-2007 at 10:05 PM.
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Old 11-21-2007, 10:05 PM   #2 (permalink)
GoofyTimL
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Car: '07 MSRT8 Bright Silver; '06 H.E. 300C Inferno Red MSRT: AirHammer, OptGrp 1, UCon, ACW flaps, Stealth Bulbs, 22elite armrests/console, pin stripes H.E.: ProtectGrpII, RearVES, Sunroof, UCon, Sirius, ACW flaps/Eng. cowl, 22elite armrests/VES cover
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Remove the engine pan (or at least the front two bolts) and the fascia skirt…
Removing the entire engine pan is up to you. This can be done easily without removing the pan and only removing the fascia skirt.

For those that have never done this, the engine pan is held on with 4 10mm bolts, and the fascia skirt is held by seven 8mm bolts and a total of six plastic pop pins. To remove the pop pins pry up the center pin with a regular flathead screw dirver and you will be able to pull the push pin assembly out. Again, I did not take pictures of this because it is fairly self evident once you're under the front of the car.

NOTE: You do NOT have to remove the push-pin in the fascia under the brake vents. This pin holds a separate directional piece of the vent to the fascia skirt. If you do remove the pin, you will have to figure out how to position the vent piece upon reassembly.

Ok, here's how the driver's side fog looks after removal of the fascia skirt. Plenty of room in there.


I used a microfiber towel to wipe dust off the surface of the fascia underneath that orange sticker, and also from the steel bumper strips above the fog light. This was my pre-planning for positioning the ballast, ignitor and capacitor. You can see in the image than the installed position of the halogen bulb is with the right-angle base facing directly left.

The same is true for the passenger side fog, although it's a bit more crowded over there because of the windshield washer fluid reservoir.



Compare the H10 bulb with the HID bulb... to note the correct position of the "wings" relative to the insulated HID electrode. The HID doesn't have a right-angle base, so you much recognize which way to orient the HID insulator so that the "wings" are lined up for proper insertion back into the fog housing.


Some have reported problems with an O-ring that was too fat to allow for proper seating in the fog housing. In the picture above, the O-rings look identical and I did not have any problems. If I had, it is a simple matter to use the O-ring from the OEM bulb and toss the one that is too thick. Once you have the bulb inserted and turn 1/4 turn clockwise to seat in the housing, you're ready to install the ballast, ignitor and capacitor.

One thing you MUST remember with these bulbs, the first power connection between the male OEM connector and the femail OEM-like connector of the capacitor MUST BE REVERSED, unless you choose to rewire the capacitor connector. In other words, plug the two connectors together so that the safetly clip does not engage the clasp. If you do not reverse this connection you risk severe;u overheating the capacitor and creating a mini-explosion in fairly short order once the HIDs fire-up.

Here's the finished install on the driver's side. I used one of the cable ties to hold the OEM wire loosely to the hood release cable well above the capacitor (and out of the picture).


Time will tell whether the foam adhesive pads will hold, or let go. I'm hoping for a long-term hold. I didn't take a picture of the passenger side install because of the obstacles presented by the brake vent piece and the reservoir. But suffice it to say that it's not too difficult to get both hands up there (and I'm not a particularly small guy) and position the ballast, ignitor and capacitor is the same fashion as shown for the driver's side.

Reassemble the fascia skirt and engine pan and get ready to enjoy a bright future with matching HID headlights and HID fogs.



Ok... I think I'm done... If there are any errors, I'll try to catch them tomorrow. So... comment away!
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Old 11-27-2007, 11:53 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Amazing write-up!~!!~! You're THE MAN Tim

Sincerely,

Aaron
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Old 12-12-2007, 12:46 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Keep an eye out for our awesome holiday promotion everyone

-Aaron
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Old 01-04-2008, 10:05 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Hey Goofy, how did the tape hold up?
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[center] EXTERIOR: GRIP Body Kit with Custom 402 Motoring Crosshair Grille, Custom LED Tail Lights Painted and Tinted, MoPower Rear Spoiler, AAC Red Halos, Stealth Auto HIDs 8000K High and Low Beams 6000K Fogs, 20% 3M Tint All Around, 55% 3M Tint on Windshield, Debadged and Demolded INTERIOR: Painted Nav Bezel, Painted Gauge Rings, Painted Steering Wheel Inserts PERFORMANCE: Mopar CAI, Borla 125 Exhaust, R1 Drilled/Slotted Rotors
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Old 01-11-2008, 09:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
GoofyTimL
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Car: '07 MSRT8 Bright Silver; '06 H.E. 300C Inferno Red MSRT: AirHammer, OptGrp 1, UCon, ACW flaps, Stealth Bulbs, 22elite armrests/console, pin stripes H.E.: ProtectGrpII, RearVES, Sunroof, UCon, Sirius, ACW flaps/Eng. cowl, 22elite armrests/VES cover
Join Date: Oct 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NJBatmobile View Post
Hey Goofy, how did the tape hold up?
Assume you're talking about the adhesive foam tape that is supposed to hold the ballast, ignitor and capacitors to whatever you stick them.

I haven't been "under" the car since installation so I can't see what's happened to the fog items, but I haven't "heard" anything banging away under there.

On the other hand, for the low beams the ballasts still are in place on the wheel wells, but the ignitors and capacitors have fallen to a place of equilibrium down near the horizontal frame members of their respective areas. I "think" in those cases, some "automotive tape" similar to what is used for the 300C spoilers, etc., would do the job nicely. But with no problems other than they didn't "hang" in there... I've really no incentive to "fix" that asthetic of the low-beam install.
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