goddardzilla

Mike I will reply to this when I am a bit more focussed. I will give you some reasons to use the adjustables and you can decide if it's worth it then.

Zilla

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Speed: " It's really about judgement and intelligence; so long as your brain can go faster than your going at any time, you're all right, and it isn't fast." - L J K Setright

HEMEEE

Interested to see more on these measurements...

When I asked about the discrepancy between the measurements I posted yesterday and those originally reported for my car, Hotchkis Performance elaborated on the earlier "due to tolerances" comment as follows:
"Most steel manufactuers have a tolerance of 0.030 in outside diameter".

I have Placed all measurements in a single post for ease of review:
If I missed, or misstated any of the facts below, please PM me so I can make a correction.

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8/05 Per Hotchkis during my install-
based on the sway bars from my car:

= stock C front sway Ø 1.056
= stock C rear sway Ø .559

=HP Front Sway: Ø 1.375" - 30% stiffer than stock 300C
=HP Rear Sway: Ø .750" - 150% stiffer than stock 300C


11/22 Per Hotchkis when asked for SRT8 meas. confirmation-
based on re-measure of stock sway bars on hand at the shop:
300C & SRT8 are the same @
=Front: 1.055
=Rear: 0.593


11/22 Per 'zilla's measurements-
based on his own SRT8:

__________________

Linda... * More Pics *

.
'07 300C SRT8- '06 Z51 Vette- '48 Chev 5-window P/U- '55 Chev Nomad

mikew2069

LMAO!!!

Thanks zilla, whenever you get a chance.......Anyone out there who is considering the KWs thinking about going w/ the Variant 1s to save a couple hundred?

mikew2069

Also zilla, when you get a chance, can you comment as to why they would make them hollow as opposed to solid? Seems like solid would be the way to go......

teahead

From what I understand, size matters more than density. The hollow ones are plenty strong and are lighter for decreased unsprung weight. I think the new ZO6 uses hollow bars.

__________________
2006 300c SRT-8 (wife's daily driver)
Option I, II, sunroof, Kicker, Rear DVD

20% tint, OEM chrome dr handles, moulding removed, Ultimate pdls, Factor1 LED tails, 22x9/22x10.5 forged Moz Rivieras, 265/35, 295/30-22 Hankook Ventus, NYC plat burl wood kit, KW V2s, Eibach Anti-Roll Kit, Startech grille, clear corners.

NEXT MOD:
9" headrests, TVNav2Go

goddardzilla

Hi again Mike

If you do not use should car for actual competition, or driving where you explore the absolute limits of your roadholding, then the lack of adjustability on the Variant 1 should not affect you. There may be disadvanrages when other mods that affect the suspension are added - example different swaybays. I'll explain why below.

If however you like to tweak the car to get the car optimum for you, then there is significant benefit to the adjustability on the Variant 2, (which is on the rebound stroke only - not adjustable on compression). It primarily, controls pitch and roll of the vehicle, especially in the low speed damping range which directly influences handling and comfort. It can not only give you a less floaty ride, in addition the front or rear shocks can be set at different stiffness settings to affect the oversteer/understeer of the car. The roll stiffness of the car can be increased, differentially front to rear, to add to whatever flatness on cornering and better tire contact, the sway (anti-roll) bars provide. Additionally, as the shocks wear they can be adjusted stiffer to compensate for loss of damping, and the summer/winter variantions in fluid viscosity due to temperature variation can be compensated for.

Human nature being what it is the tendancy on a road car is the spend time on the initial set up, and then leave it until you notice that someting feels out of whack or could be improved.

Stiffness is function of the outside diameter of the bar, so the center material of the bar contributes little or nothing to the twisting stiffness. A tubular and solid bar will work identically, provided the are tubes of adequate wall thickness and material, but it will be maybe 40-50% lighter.

Zilla

__________________
Speed: " It's really about judgement and intelligence; so long as your brain can go faster than your going at any time, you're all right, and it isn't fast." - L J K Setright

Meister

I, too, am waiting to see the Mopar coilovers before making a decision on shocks/springs. However, the current tbyrne GB on the Hotchkiss sway bars makes it extremely tempting to me to install the anti-sways now.

Any particular reason you're not moving ahead with the sway bars at this time, NR?
==================

goddardzilla - Our thoughts and prayers are with you and your wife at this difficult time.

__________________
Bogart Racing 17x11 17# Drag Wheels-Set #01
Kooks Port-Matched LX Headers-Set#01
PEDDERS Complete Suspension System
GSM Phenolic Spacer, 5.7-Set#01
PPP Meister Warrior cam-#01
GSM 1000 hp halfshafts-#01
SRT8 instrumentation-#01
Goodyear F1 GS-D3s-#01
Shock tower braces-#01
MotoRad 176° tstat-#01
DR Stage 2 heads-#02
SRT8 Brembos-#01
GSM 5.7L Mod-#01
Fast56K-TCM-#01
AirHammer-#01
12.97@107.7-#01
176 mph-#01
Willow: 1:44-#01
Laguna: 1:45-#01
12.3/113.8/1.74

Northern Rider

A couple, Meister. First, we have 6" of snow and are in survival driving mode until the spring. Secondly, I want to do all the suspension work at the same time - lots of labour hours involved. I would prefer coilovers to just a spring swap. However, Tom's deal on the Hotchkis stuff is really tempting.

There is one other consideration. I want a dedicated race car - something affordable, just for summer weekend circuit racing. I am looking at the vintage series as well as the mini-legends.

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3SRT4ME

According to DCX's service manual, the SRT8s come with the European spec'ed sway bars - 30 mm up front and 15 mm in back.

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Use to be "300C4ME"
Member No. 52

3SRT4ME

The manual stands corrected . . . the front sway bars are 26 mm.

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Use to be "300C4ME"
Member No. 52