The prevailing theory is Mopar coilovers are manufactured by KW.
The Mopar coilovers are essentially the same as the KW v1.s
The difference between KW v1's and v2's is the damper rebound can be adjusted on the V2's. If you like very little rebound/bounce you can tighten the V2's down with an adjuster knob.
Below is a pic of the adjuster knob. The knob is placed on top of each strut/shock. If you have an extra $300 or so, get the V2's. I have found after 20k miles the struts/shocks have become a little more bouncier/looser over time. With the V2's you can tighten up the ride to your liking.
It is not just the damper that wears. The coil over coils wear and so do the other springs in your suspension -- the black rubber springs that we refer to as bushes. The bushes are an active part of the suspension offering both bound and rebound spring and resistance. As the bushes wear the suspension becomes softer.
When you lower a car it is a best practice to loosen all the rotational bush bolts on the lift with the wheels at full droop. With everything loose, drive the car around the shop parking lot or you street very SLOWLY to settle the bush to the new ride height. On the alignment rack rail style lift tighten all the bolts with the weight of the car on the wheels. This times the bushes to the new ride height. It also allows preserves the life of the bushes.
It is not just the damper that wears. The coil over coils wear and so do the other springs in your suspension -- the black rubber springs that we refer to as bushes. The bushes are an active part of the suspension offering both bound and rebound spring and resistance. As the bushes wear the suspension becomes softer.
When you lower a car it is a best practice to loosen all the rotational bush bolts on the lift with the wheels at full droop. With everything loose, drive the car around the shop parking lot or you street very SLOWLY to settle the bush to the new ride height. On the alignment rack rail style lift tighten all the bolts with the weight of the car on the wheels. This times the bushes to the new ride height. It also allows preserves the life of the bushes.
I know the shop that installed my KW's didn't follow your recommendation. These are pics of my KW bushings. They look good to me. Do you see a problem? Or is there another way to check the bushings?
I assumed the Mopars would have been cheaper. I will do some hunting. Anyone know of a good KW V1+ Hotchki's sway package? Maybe one of the supporting vendors...
...When you lower a car it is a best practice to loosen all the rotational bush bolts on the lift with the wheels at full droop. With everything loose, drive the car around the shop parking lot or you street very SLOWLY to settle the bush to the new ride height. On the alignment rack rail style lift tighten all the bolts with the weight of the car on the wheels. This times the bushes to the new ride height. It also allows preserves the life of the bushes.
Man, that's interesting! And it's truly quite impressive that Pedders goes to such lengths to make sure the system is "shook out", loaded, while everything's loose, and then snugged with full weight still on the suspension.
I'd be surprised if even the factory does that. I've sure never seen, or even heard of, competing manufacturers performing the loaded "shake out" (my term).
Man, that's interesting! And it's truly quite impressive that Pedders goes to such lengths to make sure the system is "shook out", loaded, while everything's loose, and then snugged with full weight still on the suspension.
I'd be surprised if even the factory does that. I've sure never seen, or even heard of, competing manufacturers performing the loaded "shake out" (my term).
Pete, most impressive, sir.
But I'll have to "bean" you elsewhere.
I have one friend left in the LX world, actually two but I don't know that I can count Mike as I pay him.
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