Here is my temporary solution. I sat in the car forever trying to find where I wanted it, finally settled on this since anywhere near the shifter felt like it would be in the way. I also wanted to make sure it was on the driver side of the shifter. I'm curious how long it will hold up so I am going to wait before I try and hide the wire better.
Hopefully it works until something more permanent comes along.
Yeah that's the one thing different I told myself I was going to change on my old car before I got rid of it. And what I would do on the new car if I ever bagged it.
I used these for going thru my spare tire well and firewall..I used a unibit to drill thru..I believe it was a 1" hole..and I got the 3/8 bulkhead so I'm assuming you're using 3/8 airlines as well.. it's push to connect the same as connecting airlines to your valves
Just a suggestion on the rear sub frame bolts. If you are taking out the rear sub frame bolts to get at the rear springs out put a lot of anti seize compound on the bolt shank when you put them back in. From my past experience with my Pacifica which used the 300 rear suspension setup the bolts corroded over time with the inner aluminum bushing which means they rip the aluminum to rubber bond the next time you go to take them out and replacing the rubber mount bushings in the rear sub frame is a bitch of a job and expensive. It will take time and wet climates to cause the problem so if you are in Arizona probably not a problem but I learned the hard way on my old Pacifica. This problem is caused by electrolysis between the steel bolt and the aluminum slug inside the rubber bushing.
Cydal or Crunkz, what did you guys do for your e-level sensor mounting? I see most of the rear's mounted to the lower control arm, are there already holes there or did you have to drill it out?
More interested about the front and how those were mounted up. I see lots of different ways.