I Changed the Differential - Anyone can do it!

[srt-hardware]

First Let me say that I am a bad forum member, I did not take any pictures. Good news is that I plan on doing it again and if I mature to a good member it will be chock full of pics.

Required equip & tools are on a 300C-SRT:
1- Ramps. Not jack stands, Weight needs to be on the suspension
2- Hydraulic jack
3- On my Magnaflow exhaust I needed 5/8 socket for clamps just before the muffler and 9/16 for the body bolts at the back of the exhaust where it is held by the resonators.
4- Driveshaft bolts were first. T-60 torx and 18mm open end wrench. It is easiest to take off the 4 bolts that hold the rubber isolator to the differential. You will probably need a big screwdriver to slide the driveshaft forward because there is a locating pilot peg about 1-1/4 long to get it off. I just let the driveshaft tangle because it was in the way if I tied it up.
5- You will need to move the diff forward as you remove the rear bolts so take out the front bolt first which is a 3/16 hex allen head bolt. You will also need to support the differential with the jack so the stress is off the rear bolts.
6- The rear bolts are 13/16. They are not hard to get to but you may need a narrow head ratchet that swivels to get a good angle on them. The big hint here is that these bolts will not come out of the frame. Go back and forth to each bolt loosening a little bit each time. As the unit loosens up move the diff forward so the bolts stay all the way in the recess hole or you will not have the room to get the rachet off the bolt head.
7- To get the half shafts out of the differential lower the diff on the jack and move it forward under the car. You will probably need to use a pry bar to pop the shaft off its seat in the Diff ( there is a spring ring holding the stub in the diff). It is not hard to get it started but dont pry on the oil slinger tin it is not strong. As the stub comes out manuver the pumpkin around till it gets past the seal. The hint here is that you must completely remove one halfshaft before you start pulling out the second one.
8- Thats it! Just make sure you don't crossthread the 13/16 bolts putting them back in.
9- Oh, if you are doing axle change then remove the wheels and take off the rear axle bolt which is 1-1/4 then tap out of the hub.

If there are any questions please feel free to contact me
Chad

[Northern Rider]

Good write-up.

What did you swap out, Chad. A quaife LSD?

If so, what did you do about the seals - did you replace - and, if so, where did you source the new seals?

[srt-hardware]

I am sorry I should have mentioned what I was doing.

I put the quaife in about a month ago and I was unhappy with its performance on the drag stip. It is an awesome unit for the street and road race track from what I hear.

After breaking two axles and no stronger ones available yet (not that has changed) I bought another center section and I had the spider gears welded up effectively making a spool. I am betting that the locked rear will help with hooking up at the track. This won't work for most of yhou because you cannot drive on the street with this setup but I trailer my ride to the track so it is not an issue for me.

I should go to the track this Wed Nite to see the results of my experiment. I am expecting .1 to .2 time improvement. The problem is it may get me in the 11.4's which will get me thrown off the track for the day.

[srt-hardware]

Ooop I forgot to address the seals.

Like I said the Quaife unit was put in with new seals when installed by HHP about 30 days ago so they are new. The other unit came from Cleveland pick-a-part and it will only be used in 1/4 mi increments so if they seep who cares, I will have to pull the unit out to drive on the street anyway.

If you call HHP they can probable get the seals ordered for you.