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Old 08-18-2007, 04:47 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Your question is not as simple as it may seem. Many things will vary on time of deterioration of your stock shocks.
One how much you drive your vehicle
Two type of terrain you drive on Ex. rough PA. roads or smooth Florida roads.
Three quality of springs you use for lowering.
Four many other variables

If you lower without changing stock shocks you will eventually have problems, but there is no predetermined timeline. I have bags and run low and I am sure that dumping the suspension puts alot of stress on the shocks also. ANY time you do a modification you take the risk of damaging or causing premature wear on neighboring components. If you do the shocks and springs all at the same time you will save on the cost of not having to have the car realigned twice. The choice is is ultamitely up to you there are alot of members who have just replaced springs and are very happy. If you have the money do it all at once and forget about it. Thats my 2cents!
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Old 08-18-2007, 04:51 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Great answer right there IMO. I know I want mine lowered and I know I want it to be the best quality suspension possible. Therefore if its a no brainer to me to get the whole set up... IF I can gather the cash. Otherwise I will settle for springs and be unhappy until I get the shocks too.
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Old 08-24-2007, 11:36 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I had run mine for well over a year with just a set of lowering springs... I ran it hard and never had an issue...
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Old 09-07-2007, 09:32 PM   #14 (permalink)
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The first thing you beed to verify is if your vehicle is equpped with Nivomat rear shocks. You can't lower those without changing the shocks out because they are self leveling dampers. Before you say you don't have them -- please measure the lower shock tube OD. If your digital caliper reads 60mm or larger -- you have a Nivomat unit from Sachs.
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Old 09-08-2007, 08:42 PM   #15 (permalink)
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i believe those are only on the C.. i have the base300, absolutely no options added
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Old 09-08-2007, 09:06 PM   #16 (permalink)
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i believe those are only on the C.. i have the base300, absolutely no options added
Measure twice and cut once applies to the 300. As we started our R & D on the 300 we thought the same thing. What we found is Nivomats on more cars than we expected. The only way to really know is to measure the OD of that lower tube. Then you will know.
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Old 09-08-2007, 11:39 PM   #17 (permalink)
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ok well, first tell me exactly what i have to measure (i need a picture) then tell me what tool to use to measure.. and what findings to post here
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Old 09-09-2007, 09:33 AM   #18 (permalink)
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ok well, first tell me exactly what i have to measure (i need a picture) then tell me what tool to use to measure.. and what findings to post here
First the link to the tool. Toolprice.com Buy Digital Calipers | Digital Vernier Caliper | Fractional Digital Caliper | Electronic Digital Caliper | 6 | 12 | Digital Caliper Readout

Second, we are asking you to measure the lower shock tube in the rear, above the point where it bolts to the car. Th outer larger tube is the dust cover -- the tube that slides inside the dust cover is the lower tube or the rear shock. Use your shinny new digital tool to measure it. Menard's sells a version of this for about $20. It might not be be most accurate in the world, but it works pretty well in a shop environment for this type of work without busting the budget.
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Old 09-09-2007, 12:00 PM   #19 (permalink)
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you think if i take it to just tires or discount tires or whatever they can do this for me?
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Old 09-11-2007, 11:21 AM   #20 (permalink)
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you think if i take it to just tires or discount tires or whatever they can do this for me?
Any tech with a set of calipers should be able to measure the lowr shock tub OD in a couple of minutes. It can be done withoiut even lifting the car -- wiggle underneath and measure -- it all it takes. Sorry for the delay in the reply!
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