Second, we are asking you to measure the lower shock tube in the rear, above the point where it bolts to the car. Th outer larger tube is the dust cover -- the tube that slides inside the dust cover is the lower tube or the rear shock. Use your shinny new digital tool to measure it. Menard's sells a version of this for about $20. It might not be be most accurate in the world, but it works pretty well in a shop environment for this type of work without busting the budget.
alright, finally got a chance to take my car to my mechanic so he can measure this stuff... he didnt know what i was talking about
he gave me a nice expensive digital caliper. i looked at the shock, and i think i have to remove the wheel well plastic covers just to get to the top of the shock..so i left.. any advice?
by the way, i guess you CAN lower nivomat shocks now. read this:
alright, finally got a chance to take my car to my mechanic so he can measure this stuff... he didn't know what i was talking about
he gave me a nice expensive digital caliper. i looked at the shock, and i think i have to remove the wheel well plastic covers just to get to the top of the shock..so i left.. any advice?
by the way, i guess you CAN lower nivomat shocks now. read this:
All that needs to be measured is the OUTER DIAMETER of the lower tube. You can do it without removing anything. I'll see if I can get Brandon to take a picture of this process using a caliper with the car on the ground.
I admire the dedication of Shaggin Magnum! Where there is a will there is a way!!! When we release our bits for the LX at SEMA there will be a turn-key solution. That said, the technical abilities of people who live in these forums is amazing!
lol, ok. so ill have my fat friends sit in the back, my brother will drive. if the rear end of the car levels up, i have nivomat?
if it doesnt level up, i dont have nivomat?
and if i dont have nivomats, i can lower the car via springs with no problems, or whats the case?
Only if two of your fat friends have red hair and freckles or you will damage you shocks.
Aside from the Nivomats, the concern is the amount of drop and the internal travel of the shock assembly. A coil that drops the car too much will crush the foot valve and damage the shock. In my reading of the forum posts regarding issues with lowering I have come to some conclusions.
1. It maybe that some of the after market coil kits drop the car aggressively with relatively low spring rates. This leads to too much internal travel in the damper under HIGH loads -- with high passenger, cargo or combined loads and subsequent internal damage / damper failure. Call it LX CSI. It is not a fact in the sense we have not examined the failed units with dropped suspensions posted by forum members. It would fit with the 'I dropped my car and had no problem' compared to 'I dropped the exact same car and my shocks failed'. Case #1 light to moderate loads with Case #2 heavy to very heavy loads. The variable is the use. Just educated guessing to explain what appear to be facts reported by members with conflicting results. The conclusion fits -- but that doesn't make it so.
2. Never lower a Nivomat without modifications to accommodate the new ride height.
3. Always relieve and re-time the rubber bushes to avoid pre-load and uneven load on the dampers and bushes.
4. LX lowering is
Short answer, use a conservative drop after you determine by test ride if the car does or does not have Nivomats. You should be OK...... unless the passengers are brunettes.
as far as springs go,
mopar lowers it 1"..this is the least.
eibachs up to 2".. this is the most aggressive.
as far as my driving goes:
85% freeway, 15% city
80% of the time its just me, 15% of the time its me and 1 passenger, 5% of the time its 3 people total.
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If you aint shiftin, you aint drivin.
as far as springs go,
mopar lowers it 1"..this is the least.
eibachs up to 2".. this is the most aggressive.
as far as my driving goes:
85% freeway, 15% city
80% of the time its just me, 15% of the time its me and 1 passenger, 5% of the time its 3 people total.
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