Camber question

[Rollin on Dueces]

Alright, I have been looking into the camber kits out there. My question is, are you changing one bushing out on each side or two. I am kinda confused, I was just looking and saw that you can get the Eibach for like 65 bucks. That doesnt say if it is for both sides or one. I see the pedders is like 160 bucks, so a little help would be appreciated.

[GROUNDED]

Those kits are 1 per corner.

[Rollin on Dueces]

cool, thanks grounded. Hey since you know alot about suspensions, with getting these, is it as simple as pulling the wheel off and popping the old one out and replacing with the new one, or do you have to take the spring out and do some other crazy things to make it work?

[dms]

Originally Posted by Rollin on Dueces

I have just lowered the car (alot) and the car sits perfect, it is just that the rear wheels are cambers way to much. I see that spc and I am sure there are other companies out there that make a camber correction kit. My question is, how much adjustment do I need? I see that there is .75 adjustment and 1.5 adjustment. Here is a pic to show how off the camber is, and any info would be greatly appreciated!

Pedders makes a set of dual adjustable bushings for the rear upper camber arms. Relatively easy to install. You can expect to ba able to get about 1.5 degree of variation in adjustment

If you have any questions, just ask.

Now you can get a lot of negative cambers if you eliminate all the non compliant movement. We have set them up for exgtremely high negative cambers, and as long as they do not drag race, has had good tire life. Now I would say you have a lot of looseness in the back end. So having it so low with high negative cambers, and driving it in a spirited manner would not be recommended for longevity of tire life.


By the way, your ride looks sweet!! And since you are so low, putting the tires to a more positive camber, may create a tire to fender contact. So be aware

mike
dms

[Rollin on Dueces]

so the pedders has two bushings per side. How exactly do you adjust the camber with this kit?

[GROUNDED]

you should pull the spring out just to be safe and its also much easier to remove the parts you are pressing the bushings into. I am sure you could use a ball joint press that is loaned for free from autozone to press them in and out pretty easy.

Originally Posted by Rollin on Dueces

cool, thanks grounded. Hey since you know alot about suspensions, with getting these, is it as simple as pulling the wheel off and popping the old one out and replacing with the new one, or do you have to take the spring out and do some other crazy things to make it work?

[GROUNDED]

from the looks of the pedders its achieved by an offset bushing where as i think the eibach kit may be an eccentric bolt and bushing.

Originally Posted by Rollin on Dueces

so the pedders has two bushings per side. How exactly do you adjust the camber with this kit?

[dms]

Originally Posted by Rollin on Dueces

so the pedders has two bushings per side. How exactly do you adjust the camber with this kit?

To start, you press out the OEM bushings, clean the arm eyelits, and press in the new Pedders bushings. Then we add our special lubricant, then press in our center metal ferrules that are eccentric. A universal ball joint press is what we use. The Pedders part number is EP7277 and comes with all the bushings and hardware to do both of the upper control arm bushings.

Here is a ink so you can see the arm:

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Now the outer eccentric is installed as a "preset" that can be changed but will require removing the arm and relocating it. Which is easy to do.

The inner bushing is adjustable on the alignment rack
Here is a picture:
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Now to adjust, or to understand the adjustment process lets take a moment and review:
1. A normal bushing the center ferrule, where the mounting bolt goes thru, is in the center.
2, Our adjustable eccentric moves like the hands on a clock. If the rear end of the car is at 9 oclock, and the tire is at 3 oclock, and the OEM bushing was at the center of the clock, where we put the ferrule eccentric will determine where the cambers will be.
3. For example, if you put the ferrule at 9 oclock, then you move the mounting bolt from center, to closer to the differential. This adds negative cambers.
4. For example, if you put the ferrule at 3 clock, then you move the mounting bolt from center, out towards the tires, thus increasing postive cambers.
5. For roadracing or serious autocrossing, we put both ferrules, to the 9 oclock position. This gives negative cambers to the -2.5 area.
6. For drag racing, we put the ferrules to the 3 oclock position, thus making the cambers most positive as you can get them. A goal would be to get the cambers for drag racing exclusive, at +.5 cambers.

Now what we are finding, is the body variations are serious in the LX products. I am not sure is it is 100% related to body assemlby or things changing after the fact, thus the importance of strut tower bracing, or a combination of both. When I have done all the presets and checked to see what the initial settings are, we find sometimes some serious variations from side to side. The only variables are sheet metals, and positioning of brackets and braces and such.


Now Pedders has tested already a new rear upper control arm that will have a tie rod end style adjusting sleeve. This will allow greater adjustability with greater limits. They should be coming soon
Hope this helps
mike
dms

[Flossin22s]

wheel off and u can see what u need to take off, just one bolt to remove

free auto zone tools

[Flossin22s]

oh and i have the eibach/spc that i bought off of ebay for about 45 a corner