well i didnt get everything in to start the install... DAMN, I was hoping to get the dynamat mailed to me- didnt get it, hoping to get al lthe fittings mailed over the weekend didnt get it... damn damn...
i actually will be continuing this install with my brothers 300 since i gave him everything... im too nice.
Last edited by Dove dkla : 04-07-2009 at 12:08 AM.
It all depends on what your looking to do with it. I prefer UAS's front suspension but the slam specialties designed rear suspension with koni shocks instead of the ones they supply. Install is about the same with all kits and reliability is how well your install is done.
Are you looking to keep this on year round because up here in MA you will run into some issues in the cold weather. I still need to post some shots of me plowing snow around springfield this winter.
1st of let me say that's gonna look so damn nice man when it's installed, and my bad for trying to take over your thread. Well that said what I want 1st and foremost is a comfortable ride, I don't think I can sacrifice that for any amount of looks! After that looks and better handling people can't see how good I'm rolling if Im doing a buck 50 by them lol. 2nd are these systems interchangeable or do you have to buy everything from the same dealer. For instance can I get the Slam Spec braket kit w/ bags and get the compressor and everything else from someone else? Also what issue would I have with an airbag system in MA as I would run it yr round? Please school this guy.
BEFORE I CONTINUE a special thanks to Cool Cars CCE, Accuair and Zack over at UAS. those 3 guys are incredible!
I chose number 3)
So once the setup was chosen I started figuring where what fitting would go. This process was made very easy due to Accuair. Normally you have seen the guys put together valves (ins- outs-wires-grounding, etc) WITH ACCUAIR ALL YOU HAVE IS THIS (below)
THAT’S IT those are your valves and its all wired!
So I took the tank to the trunk and made sure the setup I wanted would clear the side walls with the fittings, etc…
So, although the monitoring will all be done by the Accuair ECU and NO GAUGES ARE NECESSARY, I thought about having a gauge to monitor the tank pressure and a gauge to monitor each bags pressure. So here is what I am doing
Measured out the sunglass holder in our consoles and cut out a piece of wood to use.
So many will ask why I am running 2 gauges and not using the Dakota digital gauge (left hand side) to monitor everything. I just liked the way the air zenith gauge looks when lit and both gauges I got for free so why not use it…
So next step was to cut pieces of wood for the compressor to sit on in the spare tire well. I didnt want to attach it directly to the ground because even though there are rubber mounts on the compressor it will still resonate the sound of the compressor throughout your car.
So now that I have all the parts I need (with the exception of some fittings that were sent to me incorrectly) I can start dry fitting everything on layout and in the trunk. Here is the basic setup I want.
I am ready to dynamat the spare tire well.
So after the dynamat WHICH WAS HARD, I started bolting everything down. The one thing I didn’t know and if it was my guess I would guess no you don’t, but I didn’t know if the Accuair VU4 Valves needed to be grounded (there is a wire on the harness that needs to be grounded so I don’t know the housing itself did or not… Just to make sure I grinded the paint off of the trunk area that the valves are attached and went ahead and attached them with the provided bolts.
The Accuair compressor relay needed to be grounded so I grinded the wall of the spare tire well and attached the relay to the wall (picture below)
I also went ahead and grabbed a 12 volt power wire (constant) from the fuse box (the wire that goes from the battery to the fuse box on a bolt). I attached a 4 gauge wire and ran it to a distribution block to power my amps, and my compressors. ALL OBVIOUSLY WITH ITS OWN FUSE! The picture below shows 2 red wires from the block on the left to my amps.
Another dry fit of where the tank goes, just in case something doesn’t fit…
ENd of the day. this was only about 2 hours of work. AT BEST!!!
Last edited by Dove dkla : 04-12-2009 at 01:54 AM.
FORGOT TO INITIALLY MENTION, EVERY FITTING I AM PUTTING TOGETHER I AM USING Loctite 545. This from what my research has shown me is a far better than Teflon. Although you can use Teflon tape…
So I started putting the ECU unit, connecting the wire harnesses etc. This may get a little complicated but it is SOOOO EASY if you are looking at every part.
So I gotta say when I put the cables together I had to re-arrange things because some of the wires were short. My 2 gripes on the harness would be the main harness connecting the ECU and the valves are too short!, and 2 the tank sensor wire is very short as well. So instead of showing off the ecu unit, I had to attach it to the wall of the trunk. Picture below is taken facing the rear of the car.
Next came attaching the wireless remote control box. Real small 3 inch by 3 inch box that in essence taps into the touchpad harness (all done by Accuair)
Ok so this may be a little complicated BUT if you refer back to the install sheet provided by Accuair, here is the power setup.
From the Distribution block (from previous pictures) a 4 gauge wire goes to a 70-80 amp fuse then to the compressor relay (1), from the power harness off the ECU the red wire goes to the same relay bolt as the main power supply arrow (1)
From the power harness the yellow wire goes to (2), and lastly from the compressors red wires go directly to (3)
(note that the wire from the distribution block going into the fuse is not connected – I just didn’t find the need to do it since there are no compressors or bags installed yet)
Here is a pic of the ECU
There will be 2 remaining wires left on the power harness, one will be the ignition wire and second will be the headlight dimming wire.
1) the iginition wire was connected to this fuse in the box trunk) USING A RELAY EXPLAINED BELOW!
Please note this is not the right way to do it, I didn’t have any fuse taps so this will change when I buy a fuse tap.
BECAUSE I RUN THIS IGNITION WIRE FOR MANY THINGS, INCLUDING MY TV’S MY AMPS, ETC. I USED A AUTOMOTIVE RELAY TO POWER EVERYTHING, A RELAY IS BASICALLY A POWERFUL SWITCH. THE WIRE SHOWN TRIGGERS THE RELAY (ONCE ITS ON) AND THE BATTERYS WIRE IS USED AS APPOSED TO THIS LITTLE PUINY WIRE. THIS PICTURE SHOULD EXPLAIN IT BETTER THAN I CAN!
Ok so today I was watching the Masters, I went out to smoke a cigar, didn’t have much time to do a lot. This was all done in about an hour and a half. DONE FOR TODAY.. (suspense growing? IM SORRY !!)
I also went ahead and started extending the wires for the gauges, I basically wanted to create a ribbon cable type thin wire that I can get under the carpet from the trunk to my gauges. The Dakota digital gauge had 5 wires and the AZ one had 4 wires. WHY THE HECK DO THEY MAKE THESE WIRES SO SHORT? Do they really think we want these gauges in the trunk? JEEEEZZZ! So the wires took about an hour lining them up side by side and using tape to hold them together. It came out perfect! Nice and thin!
Next comes the air hoses, the touchpad wire along with the gauge wires into the cabin. I think at the same time I am doing the air hoses I will include the height sensor wires next to them… still wondering where to put the touchpad inside the cabin, also dont know if i should run the air hoses inside the car or outside... just dont know.
here is what the gauge it looking like. just need to touch it up slightly. the bottom.
Last edited by Dove dkla : 04-13-2009 at 01:47 AM.
Well little by little its coming together guys, today I took some time to connect the gauges (took longer than I thought it would). I had to take the overhead console out. Which took some convincing … TRUST ME IT COMES OFF PUT YOUR WEIGHT INTO IT! After that I drilled the back end of the sunglass holder to have the plugs for the gauges come into the sunglass holder..
Next came taking off the pillar post covers to fish the wires to the trunk.
This was very easy. Note when you try to take the cover off in the upper portion you will see a black clip, you need to squeeze both of the clips to release the pillar cover.
Next came running the wires to the bottom of the car and then to the trunk (under the carpet)
So once the wires got into the trunk it was relatively easy, the relay I used for the accessories (check last post with relay picture) I used that same accessories wire for the Ignition wire needed for the gauges. The ground, and that’s about it.
The gauges are very easy, and self explanatory. Instructions are real easy. Anyone can do the gauges. I don’t know why this took so long but today was another 2 hours of work.
“Houston, we have gauges”
please note i didnt go into detail about the gauge install. It is very easy guys! a few wires, and thats it! very simple!
total time here was about 1 and a half hours. took longer than i expected.
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