How to change out tie rod ends - Chrysler 300C Forum: 300C & SRT8 Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-30-2010, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
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How to change out tie rod ends

Is there a good write up on here for this? Apologies in advance, I did do a search for it, but there was nothing real detailed. I've never changed out a tie rod end on any of the cars I have ever owned, so excuse my newbish question. I am going to get the Moog greasable ends of course.

Will I absolutely HAVE to have an alignment when I am done? Since I am changing out my tie rod ends, anything else I should do while I have it torn apart? Thanks in advance guys.

EDIT: Is it as simple as take off the two nuts, unthread the tie rod end and then reverse steps?

Last edited by mrcooms; 08-30-2010 at 10:25 AM.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-30-2010, 10:57 AM
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if i recall i think there might be a pretty good how to on lxf but i do remember seeing one some where though lol

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-30-2010, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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if i recall i think there might be a pretty good how to on lxf but i do remember seeing one some where though lol
LOL thanks for the reply at the very least. Any idea if it is just as simple as just loosening the two nuts and replacing? Pepper in some swearing of course.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-30-2010, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by mrcooms View Post
LOL thanks for the reply at the very least. Any idea if it is just as simple as just loosening the two nuts and replacing? Pepper in some swearing of course.
Yes.
Extraction of the ball joint stud after removal of the nut may require a pickle fork to get the tapered stud out of the hole. Tapping the threaded end of the stud with the nut brought to the end of the stud is an alternative. Don't damage the nut if it needs to be reused on the new stud. Applying some heat to the area surrounding the stud may help too.
All things being equal, count the number of threads exposed along the length of the tierod itself before unscrewing the end. Then thread the new end on and leave the same number of threads exposed. If the replacement end is the same as the original this will get you back to the same toe alignment. To avoid possible excessive tire wear you may want to get an alignment. The only alignment required would be the toe adjustment, so a full blown 4-wheel alignment is not necessary.

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-31-2010, 09:08 AM Thread Starter
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Yes.
Extraction of the ball joint stud after removal of the nut may require a pickle fork to get the tapered stud out of the hole. Tapping the threaded end of the stud with the nut brought to the end of the stud is an alternative. Don't damage the nut if it needs to be reused on the new stud. Applying some heat to the area surrounding the stud may help too.
All things being equal, count the number of threads exposed along the length of the tierod itself before unscrewing the end. Then thread the new end on and leave the same number of threads exposed. If the replacement end is the same as the original this will get you back to the same toe alignment. To avoid possible excessive tire wear you may want to get an alignment. The only alignment required would be the toe adjustment, so a full blown 4-wheel alignment is not necessary.
Excellent, thanks!
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-31-2010, 09:18 AM
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 08-31-2010, 12:24 PM
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Changing Inner tie rod ends this weekend thankfully dont need a new rack 100 bucks for a pair finally fix the severe play i have in my wheel.


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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-07-2010, 11:52 PM
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i need to change mine also. I heard moog is pretty good brand with lifetime warranty.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-15-2010, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
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I did wind up putting a new Moog tie rod end on, but it wasn't the problem (although the old one did seem fairly worn). I am still getting the clunking, and when I have to brake from highway speed it shudders like CRAZY. Almost scary crazy. I have replaced the rotors and pads before you ask. What should I try now? Ball Joints? Inners? I wish I had read the message boards on these cars before I bought this car.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-15-2010, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrcooms View Post
I did wind up putting a new Moog tie rod end on, but it wasn't the problem (although the old one did seem fairly worn). I am still getting the clunking, and when I have to brake from highway speed it shudders like CRAZY. Almost scary crazy. I have replaced the rotors and pads before you ask. What should I try now? Ball Joints? Inners? I wish I had read the message boards on these cars before I bought this car.
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After looking for best price I got mine from moparpartz.com for about $120 for the pair, delivered.
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