How To: DIY Oil Change on a 5.7L - Chrysler 300C Forum: 300C & SRT8 Forums
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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 06-05-2013, 10:38 PM Thread Starter
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Post How To: DIY Oil Change on a 5.7L

Recently I pointed someone to this “How To” section when he was looking for oil change info… assuming that there just had to be a write up in here. But, I guess not. And I had to change my oil yesterday so I figured I’d snap a few pics.

Changing your own oil on a 5.7L is pretty darn easy and anybody with a couple of tools can do it. And it can save you some coin as well. I think I paid around $100 right when I got my car for an oil change – due to synthetic oil and of course, the 7 quarts this motor takes. Never again after that. I generally keep my eye out for sales on the big 5 quart jugs of oil – I’ve found Mobil 1 full synthetic 5 qt jugs for as low as $22 at Walmart. So I’d say that my total cost when I do it myself for oil and filter replacement is under $40 – certainly worth it if you ask me.

Ok, so here’s what I recommend you need to gather to do your own oil change…

1 - Oil and filter of course! The 5.7L requires 5W-20 and the MDS won’t work without it. Personally I use Mobil 1 full synthetic 5W-20 oil and a Mobil 1 Extended Performance Filter (M1-204), but there are many options out there.

2 – Ramps, wheel chocks, and a creeper. Basically whatever you use to lift your car up safely. I have some homemade ramps that I use, along with a creeper to comfortably get under the car.

3 – Oil catcher/container and funnel. Keep it clean! The bigger/wider type of oil catcher you have the better, because you’ll see – oil likes to shoot out of our cars! And again remember that 7 quarts is going to come out, so get something that can hold all of that. The one I use is an 8.5 quart capacity laying flat and works fine.

4 - Ratchet, extensions, and sockets (10mm & 13mm). Self explanatory.

5 – Oil filter removal tool. There are a few options for this, including the commonly seen belt-type that straps around and tightens. But I’ve found that these “cup” type of tools work best, especially for our oil filter location. I recommend getting them in metal – the plastic ones suck. They have “teeth” and grip the bottom of the can, while a regular 3/8” ratchet extension will pop right in.

That should do it. Got everything together? Ok, let’s get started… this is going to be a breeze…

First things first, raise the front end of your car however you do that. Please be safe. Use secure ramps and wheel chocks, or use jack stands (or a lift if you are that lucky)…

Slide under the front of the car and look up. You’ll see the protective belly pan. Actually two of them – we’ll be removing the rear one, not the front one that is connected to the fascia. It is held on by four 10mm bolts (they are actually marked 1 through 4 on the plastic belly pan) – two in the back, and two in the front which go through the front belly pan…

Grab your ratchet and 10mm socket and remove those bolts…

Once those bolts are out, slide the rear belly pan back an inch or two so that it clears the lip on the front belly pan. Here is what it looks like off the car…

Now you have easy access to the oil drain plug and oil filter. The drain plug is actually horizontal, facing the rear of the car. Here’s a pic from the back looking forward and another from the driver’s side looking toward the passenger side…

See it? Ok, but before you remove that plug, carefully setup your oil catcher/container. As I said earlier, the oil will come out with quite a bit of force. When the plug is first removed the oil will shoot backwards about a good foot or so. I usually line up the oil catcher back a foot and quickly adjust it as the oil starts coming out. As the oil drains, the pressure comes down and will eventually turn into a vertical stream then a drip, so move the oil catcher closer underneath as needed. I should also note that I open the oil fill cap to help everything drain. So get out your ratchet and a 13mm socket and get ready!

Told ya to get ready. On a side note, this is a great time to mention the Fumoto oil drain valve >>> FUMOTO ENGINEERING - I really need to remember to get one of these. The valve simply replaces the plug and you can attach a hose to it and open the valve to drain your oil – no more shooting oil. It really is a convenient solution.

Ok, back to the oil change… Let all of that oil drain out nice and good, and then we’ll move on to the oil filter. You may have already seen it… it’s just to the passenger side of where you were just working on that oil drain plug. It’s tucked up there a bit high, but you will see that you have direct access to it. See it up there?

So get out your oil filter tool, whatever type you use, and slowly start removing the filter. Again, due to the location of our oil filters, I’ve found that these cup-style of oil filter tools work the best with a long ratchet extension since the bottom of the filter is so accessible. If the filter is on there good, I will use a mallet to bang the oil filter tool on there nice and tight and then begin to ratchet it off…

I should note that sometimes a good amount of oil will come out of the oil filter when it begins to loosen. I think this is just a pool of oil that is sitting just above the filter that doesn’t get drained – and when you loosen the oil filter it just comes out of that hole. I tend to slowly loosen the oil filter until that oil starts to drain out, and then I just let it run down the filter and drip into the oil catcher. This can get a bit messy. I’ve tried to remove it really really fast before, but that just creates a bigger mess. So I just keep slowly removing it and letting the oil drain down until I can fully remove it from the vehicle. Here’s a pic with the filter off…

Success!!! Now we just have to put this all back together. Screw on your new oil filter and tighten it with your oil filter tool. Replace the 13mm oil drain plug and tighten it appropriately. And replace your belly pan and the four 10mm bolts. Take notice when you are replacing the rear belly pan that it sits on top of the front belly pan - but if you look at the two corners in the front of the rear belly pan they will fit through a small slit in the front belly pan.

Now just get out your funnel and oil, and fill her up accordingly. The 5.7L takes approximately 7 quarts of oil – give or take, depending on your oil filter. I usually put about 6 quarts in and then let it sit for a little bit, so that the oil settles down in the motor and fills the oil filter fully. Then I top it off, checking the oil dip stick closely. I should also note that after a day or so of running the motor after a fresh oil change, I usually need to add just a touch more of oil, so I always check the dipstick again.

Congrats! You just changed your own oil! Easy as pie! Hope this helps someone.

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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 06-06-2013, 10:42 AM
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Right on! Good job.

A couple of comments:

1) Be prepared to handle any clean-ups as any mess occurs by having plenty of paper towels on hand and a place to dispose of them.
2) Smear a finger-tip's worth of fresh oil on the new filter's gasket to aid in properly seating it. A dry gasket may tend to wrinkle with a resulting leak upon startup.
3) Torque the oil filter to specifications on the manufacture's box, usually 3/4 of a turn from the gasket's initial contact with the engine.
4) After filling with 6 quarts of oil, start the engine and let it idle for a minute to fill the oil filter. Or alternatively, pre-fill the new oil filter with fresh oil before installing it on the engine. As the oil filters on our Hemis are mounted vertically this is usually not messy.
5) After the one minute idle, turn the engine off and check for leaks at the oil filter's gasket.
6) Let the engine oil drain down into the oil pan for about 5 minutes while you clean up the empty oil bottles and any thing else that may need cleaning/picking up.
7) After placing the car back on the floor/ground, check for proper engine oil level and top up as needed.

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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 06-06-2013, 10:52 AM
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Good stuff, guys. I'll move this over.

One suggestion I would make is that for the filter removal, just have a wide, shallow pan or tub available to capture the oil because it tends to go everywhere!

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