How-To: 6.1 Mopar CAI Install

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This thread outlines the steps required to install the Mopar Cold-Air-Intake system part number P4510947 for the 6.1 liter Hemi equipped 300C SRT8 (This may apply to other 6.1 equipped SRT models.)

This product can be purchased from our supporting vendor Mopar Supercenter at the best price I've found yet! (~$279.91 to date)

Fear not! The kit comes with instructions, but as many instructions I've come across, some further details are needed because the Mopar Bean Counters felt the need to cut corners on Microsoft Word letters.

On my "Difficulty Meter Scale" of 1-10 I rate this a negative 2. .... Seriously. If you have the following tools, it's a snap:

TOOLS REQUIRED:

* Flathead Screwdriver
* 3/8" Standard socket set w/ 6" extension, shallow and deep well. (Or wrenches)
* Sharp razor blade/tin snips/or side cutters.
* Gorilla snot (more on this later.)
* Common Sense (Some assembly required, batteries not included)

Optional tools:

* 1/4" socket set
* Beer (For me it was required but whatever.)

NOTE: All of the wording that's colored in red comes directly from the Installation Intructions that comes with the kit. (I hope that's not plagarism. ) My words will be in blue to emphasize further help and my $.02


Step 1.

Start by loosening the throttle body hose clamp. (See Pic 1. below)

Step 2.

Disconnect the IAT (Inlet Air Temperature) sensor, first by pulling the tab away from the sensor. Then push in on the clip to disconnect. Remove the sensor from the inlet tube by gently pulling away from the tube.

(See pic 2. below) This is taken from the side of the motor for the IAT (Inlet Air Temperature sensor. Slide back the red tab. It will take some "Stiff Fingernail Force" to move it back. (If you get a lot of calcium in your diet you should be fine.)

However, after you've done that, Here's where they lack: What they mean by Then push in on the clip to disconnect is, the black tab just under the red clip needs to be depressed with your thumb. Then you can pull the connector off. I just thought I should mention that before you go pushing and yanking and pulling on the darn connector. (See Pic 3. below.) I took it upon myself to stray from the directions by removing and bending the intake over the top of the intake manifold to figure it out. If you do this be careful not to tug too hard on the IAT wire and you should be fine. There is slack on the harness.

Now, about removing the IAT sensor from the stock intake. When they say Remove the sensor from the inlet tube by gently pulling away from the tube this isn't exactly accurate enough. It's stuck in the stock intake tube pretty good. It is VERY important not to damage the blue tip of the IAT sensor because it's very fragile. What I did was use my flathead screw driver to gently pry the back of it while also pulling on the back gently to get it out of the tube. (See pic 4. below)

Step 3.

Loosen the inlet tube hose clamp. Remove inlet tube.

(See Pic 5. below.)


....Pic 1................Pic 2................Pic 3................Pic 4................Pic 5.

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Step 4.

Disconnect crankcase breather tube at the intake manifold. Loosen and remove the air box mounting bolt. Remove the air box by pulling straight up.

Simply put, the tube just pulls off. Don't be shy and give 'er a yank! Use a 3/8" socket to remove the air box mounting bolt. (See pic 6. below.)

Once it's off just pull up on the entire air box and it will come up in your hands.

Step 5.

Loosen and remove nut. Remove Bracket. Reinstall nut

Loosen the nut with a 5/8" deep well socket. It's your choice whether you want to put the nut back on or not. It isn't needed at all! (See Pic 7. below.)

Step 6.

Insert the IAT Sensor from step 2c in the instruction manual into the coupler. Be careful not to damage the sensor.

Ok, so use some "Gorilla Snot" outlined in the required tools section. This is basically your spit. Wet your finger tips liberally and smear it around the IAT and shove it into the 90 degree elbow coupler. Now here's something the instructions DON'T tell you. The IAT sensor has to be positioned a certain way to get the most accurate reading. The air has to be drawn against the the face of the little blue head. Take a look at Pic 8 below and orient it this exact way.

Step 7.

Attach the smaller end of the coupler to the throttle body and secure with provided hose clamp as shown. Reconnect the IAT Sensor wire harness connector tand lock in place.

FIRST MAKE SURE ALL FOREIGN DEBRIS IS REMOVED FROM THE COUPLER. Packing peanuts reminents are not allowed. I wiped down the inside of all of the intake tubes with a little simple green, but soapy water with a rag will work fine.

The hose clamp to use for this is the smaller of the 4 that come with the kit. It's not much smaller so make sure you get the right one so you don't have to come back and remove it later. Also, to give yourself less struggle fitting the coupler to the throttle body, loosen it up a bit and slide the clamp further down the coupler so it's about 2" away from the end. That way you're not fighting trying to fit it when the throttle body expands the rubber coupler.

Furthermore, what I did was rotate the hose clamp on the coupler and throttle body so that the screw fitting is as much out of view as possible for that "nice, clean look." (See pic 8. below.)

Step 8.

At this point I took the time to clean all the dirt and gunk that made it's way into all of the now visible crevices. I took some simple green (soapy water works fine) and cleaned off the coolant reservoir and power steering reservoir.

Insert the heat shield into the air box cavity. The tab should fit in the slot securely.

Step 9.

Check clearance around the coolant lines. The mounting tab will pass under the coolant lines. Check for clearance against the wiring harness.

Step 8 and 9 should have been combined into one since you need to make sure you clear the lower coolant line and you also try to insert the tab of the bracket into the slot in the coolant reservoir. Some finesse should do the trick. (See Pic 9. and Pic 10. below.)


....Pic 6................Pic 7................Pic 8................Pic 9................Pic 10.

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Step 10.

Check the final tab alignment. Insert the factory bolt from step 2f.

Like the instructions say, insert the factory 5/8" bolt.

Step 11.

Insert the push in tab to secure the bottom mount. Attach rubber edge trim to the heat shield opening.

Like the instructions say at this point, don't tighten any of the hose clamps up just yet. The "push tab" they talk about is the black rivet that comes with the kit. I can only assume it pushes into the hole because I never was able to. DEE DEE DEE!!! I dropped it in the engine bay. As you fellow SRT'ers know theres a cover that goes under the engine. I didn't feel like jacking up the car so I just used a Galvanized nut and bolt I had laying around. (See pic 11. below) It worked fine.

After that slide or press the 10" weather stripping onto the edge of the heat shield. You can use some Gorilla snot at this point to help. I did and slid it across. (See pic 12. below.)

Step 12.

Insert rubber mount and tighten with flange nut and washer


(See pic 13. and 14. below.)

Again! Don't be a moron like me and drop anything. Be careful! Mount the rubber bushing on the side of the black metal box and tighten nut and washer on the inside....Nearest to the power steering reservoir. It takes a 1/2" socket or wrench for the nuts. (See Pic 15. below.)

*INSERTED STEP*

The instructions leave this step out so I had to come back and edit it in. There is a 12" piece of weather stripping that you need to add to the inside of the hole on the heat shield in pic 14. See pic 23. at the end of post #5 down below.

....Pic 11..............Pic 12..............Pic 13..............Pic 14.............Pic 15.

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Step 13.

Insert inlet pipe as shown. Align the bracket to the rubber mount.

Again, make sure all foreign debris is clear from the inlet pipe. Start by loosening up the hose clamp again. and fitting it on the rubber elbow coupler. (See pic 16. below.)

Then insert the "Mopar" tube taking into account the rubber bushing on the heat shield. (See pic 17. below.)

Step 14.

Insert the air horn into the filter element. Tighten hose clamp.

Self explainatory. (See pic 18. and 19. below.)

What I did was try to align the screw fitting on the hose clamp with the metal strip in the filter element. That way I can align the filter in the heat shield so you don't see either of those. Again, nice clean look.

Step 15.

Attach the coupler and hose clamps and secure.

First loosen the hose clamps a little. Take one and slide it over the "Mopar" tube so it will be on the engine side of the heat shield. Then attach the black and orange coupler evenly on the end of the tube. Slide the hose clamp you previously put on the tube over the end of the coupler and tighten. Again, I put the screw fitting on the bottom. Out of sight. (See pic. 20 below.)


....Pic 16..............Pic 17..............Pic 18..............Pic 19.............Pic 20.

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Step 16.

Attach filter/air horn assembly. Secure wit hose clamps.

Make sure foreign debris is removed and start by loosing the last hose clamp and fitting it over the orange and black coupler. Then push the metal "Mopar" tube further than normal into the 90 degree rubber coupler. This will give you room to fit the horn/filter assembly in between the power steering reservoir. It's a tight fit. I also placed the screw fitting lower so it's out of sight. Make sure you align the air horn/filter so that the metal strip and screw fitting are out of sight like I explained in step 14. (See pic 21. below.)

Step 17.

Attach the new crankcase breather hose to the inlet pipe. Tighten provided hose clamp to secure.

The 3/8" hose that comes with this is 9 1/2" long...It's too long. Use the razor blade, tin snips, or side cutter to cut it down to approximately 7 1/2-7 3/4" long. I cut mine about a 1/2" short so I added onto the measurement for you guys. If you mess up it isn't a big deal. They sell this hose for ~$0.75 a foot at any auto parts store. I didn't bother putting the hose clamps on because the stock breather tube didn't have them. It's up to you guys but personally I don't like the look of hose clamps so it cleans it up a little bit.


LAST STEP

Go back and doublecheck that you've tightened all the hose clamps. The one on the throttle body most importantly because at this point it should be the only loose one. Check your bolts and make sure they're all hand tightened and secure. Make sure the IAT sensor is seated flush in the 90 degree coupler and that the wire connector is attached and that the red clip is pushed in.


VOILA!

You're done! Stand back and admire your work. (See pic 22. below.) Now go start her up and blip the throttle! Nice and loud now isn't it? Congratulations and enjoy your new intake!

P.S.

If anyone has any further suggestions to add or finds any mistake with this (even if it's spelling or grammar, just don't get too nit picky,) Please don't hesitate to PM me and let me know!

....Pic 21..............Pic 22.............Pic 23.