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Old 05-31-2007, 10:37 PM   #1 (permalink)
EXTREME-SRT8
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Talking How-To: CoolIt Fan mod install pics

This was a breeze. Didn't think till halfway thru it to take pics and the camera was inside, so i just used my phone.

The install took about 45 minutes because i took a few minutes to redo some wiring and hide the ECT wire a little.

Starting off i had the JT Fan mod (both fans on low) which is good for track days and such were the engine is off, but on 90 degree days in traffic it's hard to keep engine temps under 200 with low speed fans. While installing the JT Fan mod i went ahead and ran 2 wires thru the firewall (never know when you'll need another one.) I put a On/Off switch on the JTFan mod and a Momentary Normally Open on the other wire and put a small siren i found at Radio Shack while buying switches.

Now to the install of the CoolIt mod. I pulled the airhammer (siren was under that behind headlight) and took the siren out. Connected the wires and just made that the switch for the CoolIt unit. The wire already ran back to the fuse box, i just swapped it from a hot to the CoolIt unit. Then took the ECT wire and put it in some wire loom i had layin around. I ran it down and under the hammer, then back up to the fan wiring harness that runs above the fans. I have the switch and ect wires running thru the factory fan loom from there to the fuse box.

I really like it this way. I have the two switches side by side. The first is the JT fan mod which i can use with the ignition off (track days) and the CoolIt unit which will be enabled on a daily basis.


Tools I used -

1)Strippers (nude or clothed.. doesn't matter)
2)Needle Nose
3)11mm socket
4)8mm socket
5)3/8 to 1/4 (or just use 1/4 drive)
6)Small Flat Head
7)Extention
8)Prop rod (long wrench works good)
9)Small pointed Tool... (can also use flathead you already have)



Remove Intake.. In my case.. AirHammer!
11mm socket at the TB and 8mm at the filter


I already had the wire run from inside to behind the headlight. I used this as the Switch (PB). It comes out of the rubber gromment on firewall.


From there to a hole just opposite of the firewall


Runs over fender and comes back into engine bay under CAI, behind the Headlight.


Join this with the ECT wire at the Fan harness loom that goes over the fans.


I started on the ECT wire. Untape and pull back the factory loom at the sensor. Cut just enough of the factory loom off to fit the tap, and retape.
***Joe's instructions are great. But, on my SRT (and another members) my violet wire doesn't have a yellow tracer. It has an orange tracer. Just be aware of this. It's no biggie, long as you get the violet wire!


From the tap i just ran along some existing loom. Neat is always good!


From here I just made a loop under the intake tube then caught some loom on the fan shrowd.


I entered the factory loom here.


Flattened a small cotter pin and made a hook on one end to fish thru and under the factory tape.


Switch leg and ECT runs over the fans to the fuse box. (in the factory loom)


Exit factory loom and more loom. Over this module.



Pop this clip out to lift the panel


OK, it's kind of cluttered under my fuse panel, but bare with me.

Exit loom here and under fuse panel


Prop panel up and you can fish your wires up to the top of the panel.


ECT wire. Once in the panel, fish thru and stip a small amount to put into the ECT terminal (middle terminal) I forgot to take a pic of the Switch (PB) wire, but it's just to the right of middle. Fish it up the same as the ECT wire.


For the AUX i used the suggested Horn relay per the instructions. affix to the horn relay lower left of panel.

Stip off a bit of insulation


Wrap around relay


Around and into the AUX terminal


Power 12v

Do the same as the horn relay. Strip a bit of insulation from the wire. Pull fuse 14, third from top peach (i guess) in color, hook to the to the load side of this.


Feed thru box and into the far left terminal, labeld (12v)




I lifted the CoolIt mod a little in order to tuck the excess wire under and tidy it up a bit. Once the wires are under, push the relays down and it looks great!



Here is a run down of what it will look like.



Here are my switches.

Left is the JT Fan mod. On/Off type switch --- Right is the CoolIt Fan Mod. Momentary Normally Open switch
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Last edited by EXTREME-SRT8 : 06-12-2007 at 08:33 PM.
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Old 06-01-2007, 09:07 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 330toSRT8 View Post
I was wondering when someone would mention the CoolIt fan mod on this board. It sounds like it's definitely the best solution.
I agree, i think this is a great solution.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjr5150 View Post
Extremely great write-up !! Sounds like the way to go . I have had the GSM mod for some time (about 1-1/2 years now ) and am loving it but I wouldn't say it was a simple installation . Sounds like you'll be enjoying a cool ....fast car .
Yea, i've had the JT mod for a while. I loved it, kept it under control mostly. But still had to remember to turn it on, turn it off, then there isn't a real need to have it on cruisin down the hwy at 80mph most of the time so it's running for no reason.. It's going to be nice to just not worry about it and know its under control!

Last edited by EXTREME-SRT8 : 06-01-2007 at 09:11 AM.
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Old 06-01-2007, 09:13 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Is it two different kits 1 for the ESP and 1 for the FAN or 1 kit does all ?
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MODS

1 Tint 35% all around
2 Mats with srt8 logo
3 AFE stage 2 CAI
4 Stock grill painted black
5 Silver licence plate frame with srt logo
6 Key chain with srt logo
7 Valve stem covers with srt logo
8 Mopar Remote start
9 All (TSB'S) completed
10 Painted calipers
11 Centric posi-quite semi-matallic pads
12 300c Hemi Badges
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14 Diablo Predator

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Hotchkis Swaybar (to be installed )








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Old 06-01-2007, 09:29 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I only have the Fan mod. I believe the ESP mod is only for the 5.7 so they can push and hold the button for x amount of seconds and get the ESP Disable like the SRT models.
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Old 06-01-2007, 10:28 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KSA SRT8 View Post
how and where can i buy this think because i real need it in saudi

plssssssssssssssssssssssss
At the bottom of the page COOLIT


No ESP, complete SRT-Style ESP Disable Solution
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Old 06-02-2007, 12:11 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moose View Post
GSM is a little bit more, but IMO cleaner install. ESP/Torque Management /Fan Modification: GS Motorsports
Probably cleaner, but the CoolIt seems to have more features. Auto mode with user selectable temp, both fans on high, and both on low. Has audible recognition (horn chirps)

The only thing you can see under my hood (without opening fuse box cover) is the ECT tap, which thanks to Jaak over on LXF i'll be relocating that to under the fuse box.
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Old 06-02-2007, 01:13 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stillbad View Post
Can you share the how to when you relocate the ECT tap ?? Are you tapping into another wire source ?

Thanks
According to Jaak, it's in connector C2.

http://www.lxforums.com/board/showpo...64&postcount=9
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Old 06-05-2007, 10:01 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fabes View Post
Am ordering my coolit this week ,do i still have to install 180stat evn though i don't go to the track?
If you leave CoolIt at the default setting and have a 203 thermostat, the fans will be running all the time once the car heats up. You can program CoolIt to activate the fans slightly earlier than stock, but without a doubt, the best thing to do is install a 180 tstat (or 170, but you could get codes).
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Old 06-13-2007, 11:49 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fabes View Post
Am ordering my coolit this week ,do i still have to install 180stat evn though i don't go to the track?
No you dont. You can use the OE T-stat the designer of the fan switch decided to use the 180 motorad t-stat as the base t-stat to build around. If I were you I would go with the 180 though its not just for racing. It really helps keep those coolant temps below 190 but above 180 the optimum place for the hot hemi to be. I am getting the coolit this month but I already installed the 180 t-stat and even without the fan mod on the hwy at mid 90's ambient I get low 180's for coolant temps. Only in heavy traffic does it go up to the 217 before the fans come in and takes it quickly back down to 190 or so before the fans cut back out. The best thing about keeping the hemi cooler is it gets better gas mileage, to the tune of 200 miles on a half tank. Before the 180 stat I usually got 140-160 miles on a half tank. The second best thing keeping the hemi cool does is keep the car performing the same way no matter how long I drive it. The car responds to WOT throttle the same after long term driving as it does when you first crank it. It never feels sluggish after hours of driving like it did before.
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Old 06-13-2007, 12:06 PM   #10 (permalink)
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You can view the in's and out's on the coolit here:

NoESP's Coolit Fan Mod almost done - any last minute requests? - LX Forums

and here:

'COOLIT' Fan Mod.........First impression!!!!!! - LX Forums

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