How-To---Step by Step on how to repair broken REC Nav unit Joystick

**Mr. iNCREDIBLE** · 09-23-2008, 12:31 PM

Ok.. first sorry the pictures are bad, all I had was my phone when I did this:

*******************EDIT********************
Alpine has discontinued the joystick

This company: ALPS ELECTRIC RKJXT1E12001 | Buy RKJXT1E12001 | Onlinecomponents.com

will have 1000 in stock by 2/2009

the part number (Alpine's) is RKJXT1E12001 if you find it online somewhere else please advise me.. thanks

*******************************************

order the Joystick here: http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Ntt=*RKJXT1E12001*&N=1323038&Ntx=mode% 2bmatchall&Ns=P_SField&OriginalKeyword=RKJXT1E1200 1&Ntk=Mouser_Wildcards
Thank You Jaak for finding that...

also you can order a new plastic knob thing here:
DTR--- 1-800-373-3539 ...ext262...ask for katie

Tools needed:

Desolder iron
empty can of some kind..
Solder iron
Solder
Jewelers Flat Blade Screw Driver
Jewelers Phillips Head Screw Driver

**basic soldering skills**

*****************eject all your CD's first (nav DVD doesn't matter)
eject them 1,2,3,4,5,6 and DON'T turn the unit upside down, or your CD changer will jam... ***********************

Step 1.

remove Nav unit from car. (if you struggle with this, then stops here DO NOT go further)

Step 2.

there are 4 screws on each side and 2 on the top and bottom of the face plate, remove these and pull off the Knobs (volume, tuning, Joystick)

(thank you Jaak for providing these pictures)

use small screw driver to top pop the tabs that hold the face plae on.

Step 3.

Remove the PCB board:
4 screws hold it in place:

remove the connector on the left side

Step 4.

place the unit on a mouse pad or some other type of anti-static pad.

I personally use an empty tissue box, because I can set the unit on it with the knobs inside the opening to prevent damage to them.

Step 5.

Desolder the old joystick, make sure you EMPTY the desolder iron after each pass (empty into the can) or you could spit hot solder onto the pcb board and Bye Bye Navi Unit.

this is a desoldering iron $25 at Radio Shack:

Step 5A

look at the difference in the 2 joysticks.. if the new one (shorter shaft) bugs you then you can do the following and swap out the shaft:

A. dissemble the old joystick:

use the flat blade screw driver to lift these four tabs:

open joystick:

remove the shaft:

repeat the steps for the new joystick and swap the shafts.

Step 6.

Now resolder the new stick in place:

If I recall there are 15 points to solder, the stick only goes in one way so you can't mess that up,, but BE CAREFUL not to bend the ends as you insert it, they break kinda easy.

Step 7.

finished:

Discalimer

YOU DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK.. DON'T BLAME ME IF YOU SCREW UP YOUR UNIT.

**Mr. iNCREDIBLE** · 09-23-2008, 07:50 PM

bump for the night crowd

**Mr. iNCREDIBLE** · 11-13-2008, 12:25 PM

edited first post

FatAndUgly · 11-13-2008, 05:41 PM

Wow, that was an intense reply. Thanks for this. It seems that it may be more than I'm looking for, seeing as how the small metal rod is still attached to the unit, and still functions (except for the jabbing pain in my finger after a while). The plastic part of the joystick just broke and fell off, and a new one would do the trick. I guess I'll have to wait until 2/09 for the new joysticks.

**Mr. iNCREDIBLE** · 11-13-2008, 05:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FatAndUgly

Wow, that was an intense reply. Thanks for this. It seems that it may be more than I'm looking for, seeing as how the small metal rod is still attached to the unit, and still functions (except for the jabbing pain in my finger after a while). The plastic part of the joystick just broke and fell off, and a new one would do the trick. I guess I'll have to wait until 2/09 for the new joysticks.

well the plastic knob is listed up there as well,

if the joystick is busted (it spins but doesn't respond) then yeah got to wait till 02/2009

but if it is just the knob, call that number..

alfster59 · Yesterday, 02:01 PM

Hey Mr. iNCREDIBLE: Would you happen to have a link where I can buy a REC power cable with the Chrysler connector on one end and bare leads on the other? I've seen ads for power connectors, but would like to know for sure before ordering. I'd like to be able to bench test the radio by just connecting to a 12VDC power supply instead of ripping into the dash. Thanks.

**Mr. iNCREDIBLE** · Yesterday, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alfster59

Hey Mr. iNCREDIBLE: Would you happen to have a link where I can buy a REC power cable with the Chrysler connector on one end and bare leads on the other? I've seen ads for power connectors, but would like to know for sure before ordering. I'd like to be able to bench test the radio by just connecting to a 12VDC power supply instead of ripping into the dash. Thanks.

you mean the male end that goes directly to the radio?

I might be able to get one for you.. you can buy the female end that goes to the car for aftermarkey H/U's but the male side is a make yourself thing.

my buddy's are pac-audio have them, let me see what I can do.

Marc-

alfster59 · Yesterday, 02:30 PM

I'm looking for the same kind as the one that comes out of the dash. I'd like to connect the red and black leads on one end to a power supply and plug the other end into the back of the radio to light it up on my bench. I believe the white molded plug from the dash is a 22 pin female or something like that. I saw one on Ebay once that looked like it had the plug and about a foot of wire out the back to bare ends. Not sure that was the right one though.

**Mr. iNCREDIBLE** · Yesterday, 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alfster59

I'm looking for the same kind as the one that comes out of the dash. I'd like to connect the red and black leads on one end to a power supply and plug the other end into the back of the radio to light it up on my bench. I believe the white molded plug from the dash is a 22 pin female or something like that. I saw one on Ebay once that looked like it had the plug and about a foot of wire out the back to bare ends. Not sure that was the right one though.

the on the car harness that goes into the radio is a male..

the one you are thinking of is a female, designed to go from the car's male to an aftermarket headunit. connector on one side to car, open wires on the other to connect to an aftermarket head unit connections..

I know what you want, I have a bench unit myself.. you need the male end that goes into the REC unit itself..

you can make one, but seeing as pac-audio has them premade why bother..

alfster59 · Yesterday, 03:02 PM

I see what you are getting at and you are correct, of course. I thought of the connector on the radio as male because the pins stick out. But since the whole connector is recessed...... (thinking back to 9th grade biology class.....). Okay, so I need a 22 pin male connector with loose wires hanging out the back of it. (yes...I know what that sounds like.....Rambit: Don't even say it!) Not having any luck cruising through the pac-audio site for such an animal though. Is the part number handy?