1-2 shift hesitation TSB

[Meister]

Originally Posted by Brick Tamland

No problem Meister,

I think all the hype led me to expect too much. There is a difference at WOT, but I have been trying to fix this lag forever. I can be cruising along at a steady speed, approach a small but long hill, and instead of knocking down a gear, it will lug out in that gear the entire way through the hill... drives me nuts. Sure I can accelerate or slapstick, but shouldn't it figure it out... all my other vehicles have.

Yes it should. But you must give it a clue as what you're expecting. Moving the throttle forward to maintain speed is *your* responsibility unless cruise control is engaged. With cruise engaged the throttle will (certainly *should*) open as necessary to maintain speed, downshifting if necessary to maintain speed without undue throttle opening and lugging the motor.

Hmm.As I've re-read the description of your complaint I believe that perhaps the very torque-iness of our engines may be at issue here. Our Hemi's are torque monsters compared to most engines. Where downshifts are mandatory with four-bangers, and likely with V-6s and most V-8s, the nearly 400 ft lbs of flywheel torque in a stock 5.7 frequently renders it unnecessary to downshift for mild grades.

Could that be what your noticing and reacting to?

FYI, I did, eventually, do the road test. With an absolute maximum of 1/2" of pedal travel from steady-state cruise, likely only 1/3", a gentle nudge of my right foot causes my car to smoothly downshift one gear and accelerate smoothly but commandingly forward. Your car's huevos aren't as big as my car's huevos are presently, but even when stock it was similar - the acceleration rate was less then, but similar.

If that's not what your car is doing I suggest you spend 30 minutes and do the following procedure. If your car isn't noticeably more responsive after following this checklist to a T, I'd schedule it in for evaluation due to its being "reluctant to kick down and accelerate". Here's that procedure:

Resetting Your LX Computers

1) With the key out of the ignition
2) Disconnect the Negative battery Cable.
3) Put the key in the ignition and turn it as if you were trying to start it.
4) Release the key and leave it in the “ON” position and let it sit for 10-15 min.
5) Remove key from the ignition.
6) Re-attach the negative battery cable.
7) DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE when starting the engine for the first TWO times!!!
8) Start engine and let idle till it reaches operating temperature.
9) Turn engine off for 5-10 seconds.
10) RE-START the engine but DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE!
11) Let the engine return to normal idle (600 RPM stock; 800 RPM B&G flash)
12) Turn engine off and then start her up and take her for a LIGHT test drive. No WOT testing yet.
13) After driving around the block letting your computer LEARN the new air flow turn her off one last time
14) Fire her up and drive her the way you want.

I have found that this procedure is able to remove various gremlins. Idle is invariably smoother afterwards, and response to accelerator input is crisp and sure.

Let us know your results.

[Brick Tamland]

Thanks again Meister,

I have never read the above steps. A few seem close, but nothing that precise. I will give her a whirl...

Results later today...

PS: DOesn't matter which flashpaq tune is in or anything? I dont have to return to stock first?

[Meister]

Originally Posted by Brick Tamland

Thanks again Meister,

I have never read the above steps. A few seem close, but nothing that precise. I will give her a whirl...

Results later today...

PS: DOesn't matter which flashpaq tune is in or anything? I dont have to return to stock first?

Correct, Brick. Run the checklist with your car configured just as you drive her.

[Brick Tamland]

I must say, that after following the steps and simply just driving it around my block (second to last step) it feels better already. A little later I will take Black Betty out for a burn...

[Meister]

Originally Posted by Brick Tamland

I must say, that after following the steps and simply just driving it around my block (second to last step) it feels better already. A little later I will take Black Betty out for a burn...

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'Hope you survived the experience, Brick.


FYI, I checked the 1-2 shift at WOT without the GSM switch being on and no lag.

Then I remembered that I'm also running the B&G-flashed ECM - and that perfects the shifts by greatly reducing torque management itself. I also recalled doing 1-2 shifts this past weekend with the stock ECM in for a while and the lag was clearly noticeable, though reduced greatly over pure stock (by the TSB flash and by the superchips tuner).

So it will take your getting the B&G flash to essentially remove the lag from the 1-2 shift at WOT, Brick. Hopefully you're finding Black Betty's performance since clearing her computers and adaptives sufficiently envigorating that you'll not need to purchase it.

But if not, the B&G Stage 2 flash will definitely provide you what you're looking for.

[Youngz1]

I was wondering if resetting your computer or pulling fuse 11 will reset the tsb flash 18-031-05?

[Trojan]

Originally Posted by Youngz1

I was wondering if resetting your computer or pulling fuse 11 will reset the tsb flash 18-031-05?

What do you mean by reset? I believe once you have the flash there is no reseting it. Pulling fuse 11 wont have any affect on the flash.

[Youngz1]

Originally Posted by Trojan

What do you mean by reset? I believe once you have the flash there is no reseting it. Pulling fuse 11 wont have any affect on the flash.

Ok. I didn't know that. Thanks!

[95ttoplt1]

Got the TSB done and was happy until today, it missed second again.

Should'a got the CTS-V

[DonaldJ]

nice, I heard that too...