ok her goes the 300c crd has started to play up on heavy throttle .car pulls and then feels a heavy judder like the engine just dies ,and all so had the odd actuator problem with the engine making over gassing noises ,car takes for ever to drop on throttle and excelarate .Have brought and waiting delivery of plug in reader for codes but car not showing any lights or faults up now ,could it be a wiring fault on air flow meter or turbo sticking or actuater sticking ,just feel its electrical as no light codes and when i turn the car of and back on fault goes away for a day to 3 weeks or so ,please any help would be great full
got my obd2 blue tooth eader today only code was PO670 code with i have reset and plulled the little sensor next to air box with throw up a PO107 code allso i refitted and deleted ,i tryed running the car with the mass air flow meter unplugged made no difference and deleted that code on refit ,i have engine lights on the dash showing and not going into limp mode ,the car wont pull but judders under throttle and get lots of waste gate noises of the turbo ,do i replace the air flow meter or is it a case of turbo actuactor and how do i test them
no its does it all the time now ,funny as car starts almost instant ,but living on the isle of wight and bearly doing 40 mph every where might be killing the car lol
Take the intake pipe off the turbo and inspect the turbo vanes to see if they're not damaged then try and see if there's any play in the turbo vanes then report back....I hope it's not what I think it is
weather not that good to spend time out side yet but did check the actuator and that is moving as should but found the pipe that goes into the turbo at the front from the air box was so loose the garage must not tightened it as last work done would that make a problem with air flow allso got a second hand air flow meter coming to try
did you change the actuator your self or a garage ? my car is better since i tightened the air pipe at the turbo ,car runs fine again but it lets it self down around 30 miloes and then re sorts it self ,got a map coming to change to see if that helps but idont think it will lol.still not got any new codes coming up so strange
ok thanx the main pipe that goes into the turbo was loose has helped and the car been ok most the time since just the odd occasion the whistle comes back but seems to sort it self out when driving still got to change my map and see if that helps but do find the turbo is lazy and car only pulls when you give it full throttle ,ps was reading about this problem on eairlier posts and could even be a gasket that has worn and causing airflow getting in the turbo some how
When my turbo actuator played up, what happened was under normal acceleration it was fine, but is coughed etc if you put the boot in more than normal.
Removal and reinstallation is fairly easy. The Chrysler stealership in Melbourne wouldn't sell me one without the turbo, liked to tell me they were matched.
So I sent mine to Turbo Developments in the UK, they couldn't fix it so I got a refurbished replacement with 12 months warranty.
Very helpful people, and I sent it on a Monday, got it back Thursday week because Easter was in the middle.
Not bad for Aust to UK and return.
ok update car was fine untill to day car was making the same old noises from the turbo ? and thunder bolt came on dash , pulled over and plugged in my ob2 reader and code PO404 , reset code drove car like in limp mode ,took the car to local garage and looked at it pushed down on the front pipes made the turbo noise go away ,took car for a run but seem like the car would not Excelerate ,so back to garage but then throw up another code PO106 so changed the map with one i had brought to test ,car seemed alot better after that was quite happy as it seemed to cure it ,but on way home thunder bolt came back on a basck into limp mode this time code PO299 reset it and car seemed ok again but when i push the trottle to the floor the car wants to go like mad but stutters badly but if io drive normal car seems ok .ps no more codes have come up .allso checked the turbo vanes and all look ok really starting to get fed up with this any help please
P0404 is EGR.P0106 is turbo underboost and P0299 is MAP sensor or Barometric pressure sensor.Have you still got your EGR running or have you put a resistor in to fool it?
If your EGR is stuck open or even broke it will let everything pass through and you will lose power
i think its still standered .how much are those resister plug ins and are they easy to install ,but do you have to set the egr first as it could be open when in resistor installed ,ps car run fine today so getting very confussed
^^^^ yes and yes.The EGR is the worst thing ever invented for cars...especially on CRuD's of any make because of the sh1t you're burning and putting it back through the inlet.It's like having blocked arteries....Bad idea
Would an EGR fault cause the wooshing noise?? Mine is fine when accelerating hard but when i put the slightest touch on the accelerator and hold it steady the whoosing noise is terrible????? it when i let of the gas if accelerating hard also???
The whooshing you hear is probably turbo noise - in my case it kicked in just under 2,000 revs on acceleration. I had that and P0299 and it was all down to seals on the turbo; two "O" rings and the orange turbo seal.
I would definitely suspect the turbo inlet pipe as your number one cause.
I think the trouble is that there are a number of interlinked sensors on the inlet and they throw up a variety of codes.
I've had mine off a couple of times, currently still off until tomorrow, but I've always tightened that tad extra due to the "oil V swirl motor " problem.
This time around I'm opting for a smear of silicon, strategically placed.
I took it all off 4 months ago, remembering where it goes and installing in what order has been fun ::frown::
You cant torque up jubilee clips,they'll strip the thread,just do it as tight as possible with a screwdriver,if it hasn't got a slot and you have to use a socket don't go too tight or again you'll strip the thread
ok update car seems sorted ,and it was all down to the loose top turbo intake pipe .no more codes and now pulls on full throttle ps did put a new jubalee clip on cheap from b and q
ok another update problem back even fitted a new red intake seal old one was ok and even put sealent in to help ,where next is it the inter cooler pipes next and the other 2 seals or could it be a split in the plastic air box down below near the front of the engine
ok really fed up now car does not pull only stutters and getting thunderbolt light up on dash code reader says PO404 which is EGR valve is this a trick or is it the turbo vanes sticking please help or this car will go to we buy any car .com
Best to
1) Check the wiring for signs of rubbing first. Common fault on 300C at RH towards rear of engine near the Air Con pipe. If you don't know where it usually rubs let us know and will post a pic.
2) If no signs of rubbing I would fit a resistor in place of EGR. Get back if you need further info as best to check for rubbing wires first.
checked for rubbing but not really shore if was looking at the right wires but all wiring looks as new ,but did notice that car run fine today after i pulled the wires abit but worse thing is that that actuator arm never moved even when reving the car ,but car run fine all day with no problems or error light s so really confussed
I've been down the faulty actuator path.
What I experienced was the car ran fine while driving sedately, but coughed and spluttered under harder acceleration.
Turbo Developments in the UK repaired the actuator for a very reasonable price.
If you moved wires and things improved, that's where I would concentrate my effort.
I've been done the "love-hate" relationship with my CRD, and sadly a beautiful machine has been let down by some stupid design faults.
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