Hello folks, firstly apologies for posting about an issue that's been posted about so many times before. I've spent hours searching and have made progress but am unclear about some things, I also want to run the problem by you to see if I'm going along the right lines.
Firstly its a 2007 5.7 Touring.
Yesterday the above mentioned lights came on and have stayed on and cruise doesnt work (as expected).
History, less than two weeks ago the car failed its MOT on trackrod ends, I had them replaced. Yesterday I checked and adjusted the tracking as I correctly thought that the garage hadnt done it properly, it drives perfectly now and the steering wheel is straight ahead.
The lights came on about one mile after this, having said that, when I pulled up in the car to do the tracking I thought I felt an unexpected ABS judder then.
I was convinced that my problem would be at the front end because of the work mentioned above.
After much searching I managed to get the dash to display the trouble codes using the key on and off sequence, only one present U1418, a search around leads me to believe that this is rear right wheel speed sensor.
I have bought a sensor, only £20.49 locally, its not fitted yet due to terrible weather.
My first question is do I trust the evidence that the rear wheel has the issue, its quite a coincidence that the trouble started at the time of front end work but maybe coincidence is all it is, surely the code wouldnt be misleading?
Next, I am now aware that the tone ring is as likely to be no good as the sensor but as its so cheap I want to fit the sensor and see if the fault is fixed.
My main question is whether if the sensor is the problem and I fix it, the lights will go out immediately, so I know whether its fixed or not?
Some things I've read say that it will, others that it will take several cycles. I dont want to think I still have a fault and take the car apart if in fact its fixed but the lights are still on.
Any help much appreciated.
...and I promise to post the progress and eventual fix, I've seen so many question threads where the poster didnt come back to say how he got on after getting good advice.
The code does point to either the sensor or possibly the tone ring, but the codes aren't always 'truthful' or definitive. They are though the pace to start for diagnosis. If a visual inspection of the sensors doesn't through any concerns i.e. all connections / wiring is good (no connector/sensor unplugged) then the sensor being the less labour intensive is the place to start. If a good code reader is available after replacement then it would be possible to delete the codes for immediate extinguishing of warnings, but if not some 'cycling' may or may not be necessary. If though after several key cycles and miles the lights haven't extinguished then the next step would be to consider the tone ring. Do though carry out a visual inspection first i.e. check the multi connector and its connection is good and free of muck/moisture and also check the sensors 'line of sight' to ensure its view is not inhibited by road debris/grease which is especially problematic on the front sensors.
As soon as I can I'll fit the sensor and inspect for debris and damage of everything related as best i can.
From what I've read I'm expecting the tone ring to be no good so wont get my hopes up, if the sensor doesnt put the lights out I'll order a tone ring (maybe 2 assuming the other side wont be much different) and while its being shipped the car will get some start stop cycles to see if the lights clear.
I'm very much hoping that the fault code has at least pointed to the correct wheel and the work done on the front end is unrelated and was just a red herring.
Does anyone have a good recommendation for a UK tone ring supplier?
I did read a thread about using a meter to check sensor output but it was quite baffling regarding which wires to measure, if anyone has a relatively simple explanation for testing the sensor that would be fantastic as I would at least be able to confirm that there is no output at that wheel
I'm quite competent to carry out the electrical checks if I know which wires and what output to look for.
Taken a look today, looks like the OSR tone ring has broken/displaced. Let me know whats its like to change
Tried the meter on the sensors. get a low reading on ohms to show continuity but nothing on spinning the wheel so maybe the signal is so small you can't check like this.
Free'd up the park brake mech while I had it apart. Leave the rest till spring I think
I changed the sensor, the old one had no visible damage, it made no difference and on looking through the hole I could see a rusty surface so I'll assume that the tone ring has failed.
The sensor is very easy to change, for anyone reading who hasnt done it once the car is safely raised and the wheel is off it takes 5 minutes and cost £20.50 from my local shop.
The same local shop got me a tone ring for £29 within a few hours so I couldnt consider going anywhere else but I'm having trouble finding time to fit it.
I also did some testing, the sensor wires enter the boot floor and its easy to probe them from the boot without disconnecting.
According to what i read they should have a 10v supply, which they both have. They should give a fluctuating feedback at the other wire (I seem to recall 0.8 - 1.6v) but I could get no joy there. I'd hoped to be successful at the OK side so I would have a way to prove one way or the other when I've fixed the broken side.
I dont know what I did wrong but I'll just have to change the ring and hope its OK.
Any more guidance welcome, particularly on working out whether I'll need to find a dealer to erase the codes and put the lights out or whether it'll sort itself out.
I'll report back as soon as there is some progress.
Sure enough it was the tone ring, I replaced it roughly following the LX forum instructions, although I found that there is no need to remove the brake back plate with handbrake parts if you dont want to.
It took me about 2 hours and for anyone wondering whether to have a go or not I'd say its an OK task for a competent DIYer.
The only bit that was frustrating was trying to get the new ring on, when I tapped one side it would pop off the other, took a while. If I have to do another I'll buy it and prepare something as a circular drift to cover the whole surface to knock it on with.
Even better news is that once there is no fault and you drive a short distance with correct wheel speed readings the lights all go out.
For anyone reading this in future the advice I would give is once you know the fault code and which wheel has the problem dont spend any money, first remove the sensor which is very easy to do, have a look in the hole, if you see a rusty steel surface the tone ring has definitely failed and the sensor is likely to be fine. The tone ring outer isnt steel so there isnt much doubt. The parts are very cheap but you might as well not buy a sensor for nothing.
Anyway, thanks again for all the help gents, its much appreciated, great forum.
Well done, have to get round to doing mine soon. Occasionally my gearbox won't shift up, have to stop, go from N to D and try again. I can live with it until the weather warms up a bit. Need a bigger garage