What is the verdict: Bolt Pattern 5x114.3 or 5x115?

[autofxj]

well, lets see, since the factory bolt pattern is a 5 X 115, I would go with that one. Is the 5 X 114.3 close, yes, but it is not the right bolt pattern. If you can get great looking wheels with the right bolt pattern then I would go with the correct bolt pattern.

[vyper883]

Originally Posted by autofxj

well, lets see, since the factory bolt pattern is a 5 X 115, I would go with that one. Is the 5 X 114.3 close, yes, but it is not the right bolt pattern. If you can get great looking wheels with the right bolt pattern then I would go with the correct bolt pattern.

If you were to draw a circle on a piece of paper with a radius of 57.50 mm, it's diameter would be 115mm. Now use the same center of that circle, and draw another circle with a radius of 57.15mm. That translates into a diameter of of 114.3mm. the difference is SO small, that the two circles almost overlap each other. we are talking maybe 2 to 3 thousands of an inch here. .70mm is less than the thickness of an ATM card, or a credit card. In fact you could not even fit a credit card between the two circles because the tiny gap is half the thickness of the credit card.

Assuming that the aftermarket wheel's center bore matches the vehicles hub perfectly, as that is the load bearing assembly, and not the lug nuts, or studs then I can't see an issue as the difference is so minute. It wouldn't even be worth machining the mounting holes of the rim, as it would be such a tiny amount of material to remove.

I'm not suggesting that anyone should use a 114.3 bolt pattern rim, I'm just trying to give an idea of how tiny the difference is. If I had a choice, I would definitely use the bolt pattern made for my vehicle.

[Tork Monster]

The difference between 115mm (factory) and 114.3mm is 0.028".
In machinery, that is a huge difference. On the wheels on my car that would be totally unacceptable. Even with hub-centric wheels, I would be concerned with vibration, and if bolt circles don't match the lug nuts won't seat evenly. This could cause galling between the nut and wheel or possible loosening during driving.
This may be a slightly paranoid viewpoint from someone who had wheels come off his car because of (now discontinued) universal-mount wheels.
More than once. Actually, they never came all the way off, I was able to stop quickly enough when they began to vibrate. The lug nuts would slowly work loose during driving.
I also had major problems with some Breyton wheels Discount Tires mounted on my BMW without installing the hub-centric spacer rings. Although the lug nuts were tapered and should have centered the wheels, vibration was terrible no matter how they installed them.
I will never again install wheels on a car that aren't specifically designed to fit THAT car.
I used to care a lot more about getting the best deal. Now I care most about getting the best equipment.
I wonder if anyone else out there watching have had similar problems with non-specific wheels?

[vyper883]

Originally Posted by Tork Monster

The difference between 115mm (factory) and 114.3mm is 0.028".
In machinery, that is a huge difference. On the wheels on my car that would be totally unacceptable. Even with hub-centric wheels, I would be concerned with vibration, and if bolt circles don't match the lug nuts won't seat evenly. This could cause galling between the nut and wheel or possible loosening during driving.
This may be a slightly paranoid viewpoint from someone who had wheels come off his car because of (now discontinued) universal-mount wheels.
More than once. Actually, they never came all the way off, I was able to stop quickly enough when they began to vibrate. The lug nuts would slowly work loose during driving.
I also had major problems with some Breyton wheels Discount Tires mounted on my BMW without installing the hub-centric spacer rings. Although the lug nuts were tapered and should have centered the wheels, vibration was terrible no matter how they installed them.
I will never again install wheels on a car that aren't specifically designed to fit THAT car.
I used to care a lot more about getting the best deal. Now I care most about getting the best equipment.
I wonder if anyone else out there watching have had similar problems with non-specific wheels?

You are absolutely right-Though It is dependant on how critical the tolerances are on a given part, or piece of machinery. It two lug nuts are exactly adjacent from each other, that translates to about 14 thousandths of an inch, that the lug nut will be off center towards the edge of the rim.

I can't speak for the wheels and your experience with them because I don't know the difference in their tolerances and dimentions. One reason had to be the lack of hub centric rings. The nuts may have initially centered the rim, but your lug nuts probably loosened more to the fact that the lug nuts and studs were also serving as a load bearing assembly for the wheel. That is the hub's job, and the hubs job alone. the lugs and studs are there to keep the wheel in place laterally, as their designed for tensile strength and not made to withstand the sheering forces from the weight of the vehicle and they will loosen with absolute certainty eventually if made to carry the vehicle's weight and forces.

You felt the vibration, because as soon as the nuts were loose enough, your wheel became de-centered, which would not be the case if the wheel's center bore was mated perfectly with the hub, even via a hubcentric ring or hubcentric spacer.
All being said, yes proper wheels should always be used for a particular application. Can you get away with 114.3 on LX vehicles? I don't know,some seem to have, but Personally I would avoid it, as I want to cruise at over 100mph with confidence, and not be thinking "what if"?
I'm in complete agreement with you and I may have been misunderstood in my previous post.- I would never recommend mounting an aftermarket wheel on a vehicle, unless it's fitment was within proper specs. Our safety rides on our wheels as they are the only contact point between the car and the road.

[Tork Monster]

Originally Posted by vyper883

I'm in complete agreement with you and I may have been misunderstood in my previous post.

No misunderstanding here; I was just ranting a bit from my own biased viewpoint :- )

The wheels that worked loose were on my '69 Chevy rod, and I don't think they used a hub center to locate the wheels on those.. I will have to look the next time I have one off.

[E55 KEV]

Originally Posted by Tork Monster

I also had major problems with some Breyton wheels Discount Tires mounted on my BMW without installing the hub-centric spacer rings. Although the lug nuts were tapered and should have centered the wheels, vibration was terrible no matter how they installed them.
I will never again install wheels on a car that aren't specifically designed to fit THAT car.

Aren't Breyton specific and only built for BMW? So wouldn't the hub be BMW specific and not require a centering hub? I do believe BMW had a center bore hub size change for some models and this may have been why not hub centric. Was this an older BMW with a hub of something like 57.1 versus their current size of 74.1 or something?

[Tork Monster]

Originally Posted by E55 KEV

Aren't Breyton specific and only built for BMW? So wouldn't the hub be BMW specific and not require a centering hub? I do believe BMW had a center bore hub size change for some models and this may have been why not hub centric. Was this an older BMW with a hub of something like 57.1 versus their size of 74.1 or something?

Exactly.
Breyton made the wheels with the larger bore so they could fit all models with the use of hub-centric rings. Discount Tire, however, didn't think these were required and didn't tell me they were even an option. It took about two weeks of rebalancing, etc. before they suggested to try those rings... all was well after that.

[vyper883]

Originally Posted by Tork Monster

Exactly.
Breyton made the wheels with the larger bore so they could fit all models with the use of hub-centric rings. Discount Tire, however, didn't think these were required and didn't tell me they were even an option. It took about two weeks of rebalancing, etc. before they suggested to try those rings... all was well after that.

You'd think that the professionals at a tire shop would do it right the first time.

[onedug]

Originally Posted by Mr.DJ

Due to the limited availability of aftermarket wheel manufacturers that offer the correct bolt pattern, many '300 series' owners have resorted to running the incorrect bolt pattern and utilizing 'hub-centric' spacers to make them work.

Been there done that. Problem is, I was totally unaware that my 20" Panther Flood rims needed spacers. Two spacers in the front(each side) and one each side in the back. PAID DEARLY.... As Mr. DJ quoted, my freaking brakes on one side warped. Now who knows if it was because of the spacers but it is more than likely the reason.

[Topmotorsports]

I have the Tsw Montage with the 5x114.3 bolt pattern. No problems to report. Had them on for 800 miles and no shaking or any other notable problems. Have been over 100 mph as well.