You have identified two areas that need some attention paid to for sure.
Basically, the wheel backplate should mate solidly with the hub face. This is called a "Hub Centric" wheel. However, most wheels don't mate up directly to the hub. There's a gap, or areas of gap, between the hub and the wheel backplate. Hubs are not totally flat and wheel backplates aren't, either.
No problem...you can get hub rings that will fill the gap and that's a good solution. Ask your wheel supplier or wheel shop to make sure, if you need rings, that they install them.
With regards to lug nuts. The wheel supplier or the wheel shop should make sure that the lug nuts fully seat in the wheel at the lug opening. Sometimes the stock ones are fine but they have a small shoulder at the mating end that is too big for the hole in the wheel. If that is the case, have the wheel shop find a set that fits and will fully seat the wheel against the hub and/or hub ring.
One other thing to make sure of...get the torque rating for the wheels and make sure the wheel shop installs the wheels correctly with the right amount of torque. Don't let them slam them on with an impact wrench to fully tight. This may be TOO tight and that may cause some brake rotor warpage down the line. The correct procedure is:
- Place the wheel over the lugs.
- Tighten the lugs down to barely tight.
- Get out the torque wrench and tighten in 10 to 20 ft/lb increments, in a star pattern (alternate lugs on opposite sides of each other), until the torque ft/lbs is correct. Again, don't over tighten!
- After 300 to 500 miles, check the torque on each wheel.
Also, make sure that you have a socket that will fit in between the wheel lug opening that is the right size for your lug nuts. Some wheels require a pretty slim walled socket to properly mate with the lug nut.
I hope this helps. If it wasn't clear, PM me and I'll be glad to explain further.
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