Swirl Motor - cheap replacement solution (Pennies!) - Page 55 - Chrysler 300C Forum: 300C & SRT8 Forums
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post #541 of 549 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 10:31 AM
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Yes you can remove the actuator and have it repaired or exchanged for around £100

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post #542 of 549 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 10:34 AM
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Thanks guys - is the glow plug thing easy to change ?

As for the actuator are there instructions on here for removing and re-fitting ?

Thanks a lot guys - just want my C back
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post #543 of 549 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 11:01 AM
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Here are the dealers findings > https://www.arnoldclarkcarpreview.com/vxCnprKYjCW
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post #544 of 549 (permalink) Old 02-28-2017, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padpadpadpad View Post
is the glow plug thing easy to change ?
If you do need to change the glowplug module then I believe it is quite easy, although not done it myself. They seem to fail quite often but are not expensive.
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post #545 of 549 (permalink) Old 03-03-2017, 03:36 AM
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ok got the car back from the dealers - all codes wiped / reset and no fault come back on the 2 days they have been driving it. Its driving perfect now as it was before this problem. The fault code it logged points the the turbo actuator so getting this changed today as a precaution. Once done I guess I will have to see how it goes - at least if it comes back I will know the actuator is not at fault.

Will then look at the glow plug module - any advise where best to buy one of these from ? - assume its a DIY unplug and swap ?

Thanks guys for all your help - really appreciate it.
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post #546 of 549 (permalink) Old 03-03-2017, 07:51 AM
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Right - my turbo fault is fixed ! - it was the actuator, found a place to fix it (replace the circuit board and motor). Basically dry joints from the heat of the turbo on the old board as the bloke who fixed it showed me what he removed. Thats why it was intermittent as it got hot.

Just the glowplug thingy to fix now ......
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post #547 of 549 (permalink) Old 02-02-2018, 05:40 AM
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Hi everyone,

I just joined the forum to say thanks to everyone on here for posting about their swirl motor experience and fixes. I came across this thread after my throttle body light came on. First it was solid, and the car seemed OK, then it started to flash and the EML came on and the car was in limp mode. To cut a long story short I tried the resistor trick with a 4.7K resistor, 10 for 99p on Ebay

Put it across pins 2 and 3 and voila - car back to normal - no lights on the dash and no limp mode. Looks like I have the orange seals with oil ingress which has caused the issue with the swirl motor.

So thanks everyone who has posed about this fix and how to do it, my local garage were talking about £800 to fix this !!
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post #548 of 549 (permalink) Old 02-02-2018, 06:51 AM
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Nice! Next step will be EGR and new ressistor. Hope that you ordered few more
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post #549 of 549 (permalink) Old 03-04-2019, 02:35 AM
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Hello Gentlemans.

After spending hours of reading this forum I think a found something that is close to my issue. I would like to ask you for some help. I have w211 e280CDi engine OM642. One day my car started to jerking when pulling the throttle pedal so I found out that the turbo actuator could be the issue I resoldered the two problem contacts and the found the info about the resistor mod for swirl flaps - could they do the jerking? I tryied the resistor mod but for the first time no succes, the car drove but only for 50% of power no limp mode because the kickdown worked but the motor was very lazy. When I removed the resistor and made a test drive the car was with full force. So second time I tried another resistor and made a test drive and the car stayed with 100% power and I personally think it had better and smooth running and the gears were changing smoother as well. But after one hour of enjoyable driving and engine check light appeared and car went to limp mode (faults 2514,2526,2530,2527 appeared). So I removed the resistor and putted everything back to defaul nothing happened, engine check still on the dash. So I desided to check the fuses and found that fuse no43 is blewn - 15A. When I replaced it car started to work no limp mode I cleared the faults and no one appeared again. Before I tryied the resistor mod I didnot get any fault regarding the swirl flaps, I was only curious to try it if there will be some change in the engine behavior. So my question is could the resistor cause the fuse no43 to blow? If yes why?

The resistor used was 4K7 0,6watt


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