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How To: Buffer Use

10K views 11 replies 8 participants last post by  jesterman 
#1 · (Edited)
Buffer Use

We previously looked at the selection process for various automotive buffers and polishers and ended that article by saying that we’d look at their use a little more closely.

For the purpose of this exercise we are going to perform a half year clean up of an everyday driver. This is an appropriate time of year to be doing this as it allows for removal of the winter grime build up and the weather is not too warm for the task to be performed outdoors.

The Basics

A warm but not overly sunny day with little wind is the perfect time for this operation.

Start by giving the car a good wash with a mild detergent that contains NO wax – this is important as any dust or grit left on the paint surface is going to be ground into the surface by the action of the buffer.

Ensure that all the little water traps have been emptied as much as possible – the combination of liquid polishes and water is not a good one!

Because this is a fairly major clean we are going to use a two step process that first involves a swirl remover and then a glaze. The application methodology is applicable to both with only minor variation.

As the paintwork on the car used here is in good condition there is no need for any degree of cut in the materials being used but the only impact this has on the application process is in the choice of sponges.



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Fig. 1 – the Washed Car

Swirl Remover

The Meguiars Swirl Remover 2.0 being used here contains a very mild cutting agent for the removal of minor surface blemishes. There are other choices available with greater cutting properties that might be more applicable in some instances.

In this exercise we are using a Festool 150 mm random orbital and variable speed polisher chosen for its light weight and relatively compact size. There are other units on the market up to 10” (250 mm) but they are limited in their ability to get into tighter corners and thus require more hand application and removal which doesn’t appeal to the lazy amongst us.

Before starting run a hand over the surface to ensure that it is free from any grit or dust. Remember that this will make a nice grinding paste when mixed with the swirl remover if there is any present.

Start around the edges of the horizontal panels with a hand application pad or a soft 100% cotton towel taking care to avoid metal and rubber trim panels. Apply to any area that the buffer can’t get to easily with gentle circular motions. After all the outer edges of the panel have been done (Fig. 2 shows the boot) apply dabs of the swirl remover evenly across the rest of the surface for the buffer to work with.


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[/FONT] Fig 2 - dabs

For this exercise we’ve chosen a fine white sponge pad for the buffer but material with more cut will require either a coarse white sponge or even a waffled one for maximum cut. Please refer to the previous article for more information on sponges and their application.

Hold the buffer so that it is evenly balanced and rest it lightly on the first dab of paste. With a variable speed model such as this one set it to the lowest speed and let the tool do the work. There is no need to apply pressure to the surface but care should be taken not to rest the tool in any one area for too long. Guide the tool across the surface taking care to avoid protrusions such as badges and spoilers that can be caught by the head.

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Fig 3 - holding

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Fig 4 - In Use

The swirl remover is a fast drying product so only one moderate sized area should be attempted at a time before removal – when it takes on a haze like finish then it is time to remove it.

Change the sponge being used on the buffer for a yellow buffing sponge and increase the speed slightly to help avoid a build up of material on the sponge. Use exactly the same action as before and when the area that can be machine removed is completed then remove the little fiddly bits with a medium microfibre cloth.

A single application sponge should be sufficient for the whole car but the average Falcon will require anything up to 3 removal sponges as they become clogged and start to lose their effectiveness.
In some cases there will still be a residue of material on the paint but this can be quickly removed with a fine microfibre cloth.

Glaze

Once again we are using a product from the Meguiars range, this time the Mirror Glaze which is an excellent choice for that deep, showroom shine.

This is a great product but care should be taken to apply it sparingly especially when used with a buffer. It provides excellent coverage and a couple of small dabs is sufficient to do all but the largest panels.

The application method is otherwise the same as above except this time we start with a yellow buffing pad to apply the material as no cutting capability is required. Removal can be performed with either a clean yellow buffing pad or a simple felt pad. Do not use wool or sheepskin pads for either of these applications. They are simply too coarse.

As a matter of personal preference the job can be completed with a light rinse and drying of the paintwork to remove any residue or dust.

The entire process will take around 3 hours at a steady pace but the result is well worth the effort.
The end result (on display) is shown below.



Cheers
Russ
 
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#3 ·
HEMMISSEY said:
you have the after pic's? ;)
nice write up again..
(I vote for Sticky)
Thanks. After pic now added.

Cheers
Russ
 
#4 ·
I want the world to know that this has been the best bit of knowledge today. Except I just finished doing it the had way. No I did it & it is OK but 2 more hours & it could have been a lot better. I actually did the good one today. I'm still alive so thats cool.
 
#5 ·
I want the world to know that this has been the best bit of knowledge today. Except I just finished doing it the had way. No I did it & it is OK but 2 more hours & it could have been a lot better. I actually did the good one today. I'm still alive so thats cool.
Jeez man, every day I wake up it amazes me I made it through the night...haha. I'm just thankful for that.

I agree using a buffer is the way to go. I bought a Porter Cable this summer and would never go back!

Bernie
 
#6 ·
I am a beleiver of take all the **** off the car. Why put it on? Greese garbage plastic magic polimers, give it a rest. Our cars are designed to be out in the weather I don't think we have to put them inside at all. HOWDO those figures affect you? I'm Only saying an idea I could be wrong. Luv U all
 
#7 ·
I am a beleiver of take all the **** off the car. Why put it on? Greese garbage plastic magic polimers, give it a rest. Our cars are designed to be out in the weather I don't think we have to put them inside at all. HOWDO those figures affect you? I'm Only saying an idea I could be wrong. Luv U all
Always wear protection!!!

Bernie
 
#8 ·
Has anyone used the powerball? Which would you chose a poerball or a buffer?
 
#9 ·
Nah, I wouldn't recommend the power ball. Too much chance of heating up your paint I would think and adding swirls for sure. I have a Porter Cable and it's very good, safe too.

Bernie
 
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