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Car: 2005 Chrysler 300C
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Coatesville, PA, U.S.A.
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FernandoR(and anyone else who may need some radiator fan assembly replacement DIY help):
Here is an article I wrote-up based on my radiator fan assembly replacement experience:
RADIATOR FAN ASSEMBLY REPLACEMENT
2005 CHRYSLER 300C W/5.7L HEMI ENGINE
About a month ago [July 2017] when the weather around here (SE PA) got hot (90-degrees plus F) I noticed that the engine coolant temperature started getting quite a bit higher than usual. Then one day about two weeks ago I sat in the car with the engine idling and the A/C on while my wife did some shopping. After a bit the A/C wasn’t all that cold anymore and the thermometer symbol appeared in the temperature gauge. Eventually the EVIC showed 260-degrees F. I checked the radiator cooling fans and they weren’t running. On the ride home, with air flowing through the radiator at 60 MPH the coolant temperature came down to around 210F. Upon returning home I checked under the hood and found the radiator cooling fans standing still.
So okay, time for some diagnostic work. I pulled the three relays [1) RADIATOR FAN HIGH, 2) RADIATOR FAN HIGH/LOW, and 3) RADIATOR FAN CONTROL] related to radiator fan, and tested their contacts and the relay coil for continuity and overall functionality. All were fine.
Then, with the ‘RADIATOR FAN HIGH’ relay removed, I tested for 12-volt power availability at the ‘86’ terminal connection point within the relay’s socket of the IPM. The test was positive for 12 volts so it had power if the FCM closed the ground circuit.
Then I tested for continuity to ground from the ‘30’ terminal connection of the relay socket to see if I could find what should be the rather low resistance of the radiator fan motors. The result was no continuity, a.k.a. an open circuit! BINGO: bad motors!
I surfed the internet and found several fan assemblies available for about the same price. I chose a mid-range price from RockAuto.com. As it turned out they shipped from Maryland about 100 miles south of my location. The FedEx charge was a reasonable $8, and the assembly delivered the next day. Not bad at all.
I found a “how to” video on-line of a 2006 with a V6 engine (which allowed more room for removal than the V8), where they drained the cooling system which required raising the car off of the floor to be able to remove the belly pan to access the cooling system drain valve.
To keep it simple I opted to forego the raising and draining procedure. Having previously changed out the stock thermostat for a 180 –degree F unit, I knew that I could simply remove the two bolts of the t-stat housing and only loose a minimal amount of coolant, then flop the hose aside with the hose still attached at its radiator end, and hopefully gain enough clearance to be able to, after removing the two bolts holding the fan assembly in place, slide the fan assembly out, and back in, as demonstrated in the video. And sure enough, with some careful manipulating and pushing, it worked!
And as they say “installation is the reverse of removal”.
A slow speed (40 MPH maximum) test drive with the ambient air temperature at about 80F and A/C on high, showed the coolant temperature ranging between 188F and 190F as the fans cycled on and off.
Another job done!