Question About Cooling System and PCV Valve Please?? - Chrysler 300C Forum: 300C & SRT8 Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-14-2019, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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Question About Cooling System and PCV Valve Please??

Hi everyone, great forum here I love all the info available. I own a 2006 touring with the 3.5 I have 170K on the clock and the car has been a great car without any issues to speak of. Recently Ive developed a minor oil leak. Im not having to add oil its leaking only a few drops a day but im still concerned as I don't want it to become bigger. While searching for the source of the oil leak which appears to be coming from above the oil cooler, I noticed a coolant leak. About 2 weeks prior I had the check engine light come on for coolant temp to low and replacing the sensor solved that issue. The coolant leak I discovered was definitely coming from the radiator itself.
I replaced the radiator and while draining the coolant noticed it was a bright pink color. It wasn't thick or anything, it was the consistency of water just bright pink like the color of pesto bismol. I assume someone had put the wrong coolant type previously. While installing the new radiator I removed the coolant overflow reserve tank and cleaned it. I noticed some oil buildup sort of dry looking oil beneath the PCV Valve. I removed the Valve and was able to blow through it both directions but it didn't rattle when I shook it. I was curious if it is supposed to rattle when I shake it or not?
I reassembled everything and opened the bleeder valve and then filled it back up with distilled water only. Knowing I have some pink funky coolant in the block and heater core I don't wanna mix my new coolant with this stuff. How do I drain all of the coolant so that I can completely replace it with the right type. Also I have noticed that now the car heats up to operating temp but the coolant tank pressure cap is cold to the touch??? I know its circulating because now the distilled water I added to the the reserve tank has turned to the pink funky coolant. Loosening the cap instantly makes the coolant start to boil , I think its supposed to do that according to what I've read here on the forum, but I am concerned about trapped air now as well.
Someone told me to use a garden hose to flush out the system but that would leave non-distilled water in my system right ? Someone else told me to remove the thermostat and blow out the old coolant with compressed air but id rather not mess with the thermostat unless I absolutely must. Im sure this has all been discussed here before but Ive honestly been doing searches for 2 days now and cant find any consistent reading on these questions I have . If anyone wouldn't mind shedding some light my way it sure would be appreciated.. Thanks for reading my post .

Last edited by Cali300; 05-14-2019 at 01:58 PM. Reason: errors in type
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 02:28 AM
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I can't answer your questions around the PCV but just wondering what's concerning you about the coolant color? The HOAT (believe your year should have that) is an orangy/pink color
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 02:37 AM
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Coolant color is usually brand dependant, as long as it says hoat on the bottle it's fine.


The check ball in the pcv valve should move freely. So yea if you shake it, it should rattle. Just hose it down with some wd-40 till it does.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-15-2019, 03:08 AM
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I have only used Mopar in my 2008 which I believe needs to be HOAT MS-9769 (same as Zerex G-05 I'm told)
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 03:29 AM Thread Starter
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Whats concerning is that I have never seen coolant like this before and the only HOAT coolants I have ever seen aren't this color. We're talking its non transparent you can not see through it it looks like Pepto Bismal that bright pink stuff you drink for upset stomachs. Im fairly certain this is not HOAT but i do not know for sure. I just know that I have 170K miles on the car and I definitely do not want to mix that stuff with my new Mopar coolant. So how do I empty the entire cooling system. Is there a way to flush the coolant without removing the thermostat? what I've done thus far is to fill it back up with distilled water drive it til it reaches operating temp then I empty the radiator let it drain then fill up with distilled water again and repeat the process. I've done this a few times and the coolant leaving the radiator is still very pink. Than I have to figure that eventually my engine block will have nothing but distilled water in it so filling up the radiator with 50/50 would not make actually be running 50/50 once it mixes with the distilled water in the block and heater core? Do I need to go to a shop or just remove the thermostat or ?
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 03:31 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for your reply I thought it was supposed to rattle I will soak her in wd40 tomorrow thanks again
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blistering View Post
Coolant color is usually brand dependant, as long as it says hoat on the bottle it's fine.


.The check ball in the pcv valve should move freely So yea if you shake it, it should rattle. Just hose it down with some wd-40 till it does.

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In over 15 years of messing with Hemi's, I've never seen one that didn't rattle. I expect the other engines are about the same. IMO, the problem with them, at least the Hemi and probably the others too, ends up being the spring tension...it weakens over time and then doesn't do what it is suppose to do. I would speculate that this inexpensive valve is VERY RARELY changed by the average vehicle owner. I change them on my 3 Chrysler vehicles every 30K when I service the transmissions, differentials and transfer case.

It should also be noted that the Hemi's (and probably the other DCX/FCA vehicles) have about the worst vapor recovery systems of any modern vehicles. This is why a lot of "gearheads" (me included) highly recommend a catch can to catch most of the oil/condensation that would otherwise enter the combustion tract and cycle out the exhaust. I've seen the results first hand when I tore both of my early 5.7 Hemi's down to install all new valve seats. I bought my Hemi Magnum new and have run with a catch can and synthetic oil since about 5000 miles, and my Hemi Jeep was bought used (~49K on it at purchase) and it had been run without a catch can and with dino. oil. On disassembly, the intake ports of the Jeep heads were all gunked up with what looked like sticky crude oul and, when I did the Magnum, its intake ports were completely clean. So, IMO, I vote for both synthetic oil and catch cans. To add a little more to this, although it's directed to the Hemi's it applies to all Vapor Recovery Systems, Mike at Diablosport (a tuner manufacturer) said the following in one of his posts (on another forum) about the Hemi vapor recovery system:

"No, this is where I comment on lost power due to oil contamination in the intake tract/combustion chamber. I will assure you that after having seen as many logs of as many HEMIs as we have here at DiabloSport, not to mention the numerous HEMI vehicles we have had on our dyno for R&D, I can say, without a doubt, that the HEMI's PCV/Oil Vapor control is the worst of anything we deal with. All you have to do is pull your intake manifold to see the puddles of oil collected in there, and realize that it eventually gets in the combustion chamber, and oil don't like to burn, thus, detonation occurs.

There is no gimmick here. HEMI's have KR issues. The KR issues are 99% of the time contributed to by oil contamination in the intake charge, reducing the effective octane in the combustion chamber, and leading to a loss of performance.

Plenty of people have seen solid power gains on even stock vehicles when getting rid of an oil issue by adding a catch can that works properly."

So, again IMO, the vapor recovery systems on our vehicles are not a system to be ignored.

05 5.7 Maggie, 06 5.7 Jeep GCO modded the same, MDS ON lights, advanced FRI Sidewinder cams, 6.1 valve trains, 25% UD pulleys, catch cans, ported/polished/milled heads, 90mm TB's, long tube headers, SRT8 CAI's, SOS coils, Transgo Shift Kits, SC, DS and HP Tuners, Maggie has Getrag 3.06 LSD, Jeep has SRT body kit and SRT Reps. 06 300C SRT8, Comp. cam, Foose Wheels, HP Tuner, 85mm TB.

Last edited by magnuman; 05-16-2019 at 09:13 AM.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input. I am sure that I have oil buildup and sludge as I have felt a loss of power recently. I don't have a Hemi mine is only a v6 3.5l but is there a way to clean this excess oil with an additive or solvent or is it necessary to tear it down. I have 170k on the clock the car runs well but I do hear a bit or valve tapping on start up. I have been using synthetic mobile 1 since I purchased the car which at that time had 100K on her. Now with 170k and being a 3.5l would you recommend I sell use a catch can. If it prolong the life of my engine any I would want to do this definately. When I pulled the hose off the Pcv valve the valve has very little suction like I can barely feel it at all. I will take your advice and replace this rather then soak it with wd40 as it may be a spring related issue as you say. thanks for the help friend
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 03:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cali300 View Post
Thanks for the input. I am sure that I have oil buildup and sludge as I have felt a loss of power recently. I don't have a Hemi mine is only a v6 3.5l but is there a way to clean this excess oil with an additive or solvent or is it necessary to tear it down. I have 170k on the clock the car runs well but I do hear a bit or valve tapping on start up. I have been using synthetic mobile 1 since I purchased the car which at that time had 100K on her. Now with 170k and being a 3.5l would you recommend I sell use a catch can. If it prolong the life of my engine any I would want to do this definately. When I pulled the hose off the Pcv valve the valve has very little suction like I can barely feel it at all. I will take your advice and replace this rather then soak it with wd40 as it may be a spring related issue as you say. thanks for the help friend
IMO, running a catch can certainly can't hurt, especially on any direct injection vehicle. Yours is probably similar to my Jeep, except even worse.......lots of miles with probably dino. oil being used, and then for the last 70K getting synthetic. I am not familiar with your V-6 vapor recovery system (or the whole engine for that matter), but I can tell you that it's very difficult, if not impossible to make good vapor recovery system when they're using vacuum to pull crankcase vapors and oil mist out and then cycling it through the intake, combustion and exhaust tracts. That's why someone came up with the catch can, which indeed catches much of these harmful vapors. For example, on mine (although they're Hemi's with a very poor system), in the colder, damper winter months I can easily pick up 4 oz. of what forum members call "mayonaise or latte" (oil and condensation mixture) in less than 800 miles. In the summer months, it's almost all oil and only picks up about an ounce or two between 6000 mile oil changes. Since you're in California, you probably wouldn't have the winter problem as much as someone living in a wetter climate.

https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-cul...tch-can-works/
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-16-2019, 03:47 PM
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To further illustrate the contamination that can happen, below are pix of the intake ports off my Jeep (the badly contaminated ones) and the ones off my Magnum which, as you can see are, for the most part, clean. Again, the Jeep had about 50K of no catch can and probably dino. oil and the Magnum had a catch can and synthetic oil for all but about 5000 miles. Big difference!!
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Last edited by magnuman; 05-16-2019 at 03:52 PM.
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