I had a similar issue with a VW Passat.. we never did get to the bottom of it.
My Scenerio.. the car would run fine after cold star until I hit a red light or stop junction, at which point it would stall.
Restart and everything would be OK, with no warnings or error lights, and wouldn't stall again all day.

Now here's the twist.. if I could make it through the lights at the top of my street, I could be on the motorway and drive 200 miles before I needed to stop, but the 1st time I stopped, the car would stall.
It didn't matter if it was at the top of my street (400 yards) or at the far end of the country, and would only do it once, after a cold start.
Hope someone has an answer for you, i put up with it for 3 years.

 

disconnect the throttle body connector at the TB, start the car engine will get all wonky, let it run for 30 - 40 seconds.. stop the motor and remove the key.

plug the throttle body connector back in (clean out the connector in case there is any corrosion in it, and use a DAB of di-electric grease to prevent further corrosion).

turn the key to run and listen for the TB to cycle (click click sound) then start the car.

this procedure will force the PCM to throw a fit because it can't find the drive by wire system, then replugging it forces the PCM to relearn the TB sensor positions..


I have seen the same thing happen on several SRTs and 5.7L cars, something causes the PCM to "forget" the TB sensor voltages settings and it closes the TB at idle cutting off all air to the intake and killing the car..

the lurch you got was the TB opening all the way then then closing real fast..



this procedure is actually in the star scan, it has a whole routine on how to recalibrate the TB, but it can be done in the manner I described if a star scan is not handy.

 

Thank you Mr. Incredible, I will go try this right now. Should I then go for a drive or should it be fine?

 

Thank you Mr. Incredible, I will go try this right now. Should I then go for a drive or should it be fine?

should be yes, if it continues you may have a problem with the Throttle body, beyond the electrical (maybe a mechanical failure on the servos)

but what you are describing is the TB closing because the computer doesn't know the sensor position.

 

That seems to have worked. Went driving around for about 45 minutes and no issues. Thanks again!

 

That seems to have worked. Went driving around for about 45 minutes and no issues. Thanks again!

no problem, let me know if it comes back, I'd be curious what the failure is...

 

my car is having the same exact problem. I just tried your quick fix it, but didn't seem to work. then again i didn't hear the click click noise after plugging the throttle body plug back in. maybe I'm doing something wrong. the biggest issue im having is when i floor it and let off the gas, the engine seems to go into idle and wont respond till the car drops down under 30mph.
any ideas?

 

sounds like your car is hitting the limp mode..

do you have any check engine lights or codes?

 

check engine light comes on 75% of the time. 50% of the time it will stay on for a day or two. other times it just goes away after normal driving. im always nervous to punch it to pass a car, because theres a good chance it will just go into "limp" mode and ill have to pull over anyhow.

 

next time it happens do the key dance (acc to on, acc to on, acc to on stop) and write down the codes that come up in the odo display and post them.. that will help figure out your issue.

 

Well buggar me - finally someone is having the same problems as I have had since the day I bought it 23 months ago - was starting to think I wuz spezial or someting!

No-one believed me about the lurching and it is scarey when it happens because it feels like someone has hit you hard up the cazzoo. The things Chrysler have replaced include: the car didn't even have platinum plugs, just some old mower plugs (apparently some cars were released like this for some reason -maybe Sven went to sleep making it or something, don't know), the MAP sensor was replaced, they used Mopar oil instead of Castrol and told me I couldn't use normal unleaded anymore - must use premium. Apart from that, they are not telling me. It still idles like a drunk donkey though. And lucky me, the transmission is vibrating again like a washing machine on the spin cycle. Ahhh, sigh, gotta love them and it's not like I have anything better to do than get my car repaired every 2 months and have it off the road altogether for like I don't freakin know how many months.

Seriously, if Chrysler know about these problems they are not doing anyone (least of all their name) any favours by not bothering to fix them completely when they know the problems exist. Anyway, think I'll go home and kick the cat or something now I have vented.

 

I had a similar problem this summer. The car become basically un-drivable because it would almost always be in limp mode.

I ended up spending about $1300 fixing it. Dealership jerked me a around a bit with their 'analysis testing' at first. They also tried a cheaper fix at first.

Replacing the entire EVIC computer is the only thing they could think of in the end. Think it was about $750 and $200 or $300 labour.

If you check my post history, I made a topic detailing it. I got nice help here, so it may help you, too.

Car has been working fine ever since.

It happened at about 145,000 km on a 3.5L 2005 300 by the way. Car runs great otherwise. Well, MPG could be better (10-11ish) but I think that's in part because I basically ONLY drive it in downtown-like conditions. Almost never get to really open it up above 80kph or go more than 2-3km before a stop light.

 

hmm ive never once had that happen to me

 

ok, it's back. drove approx 250 miles and no problems. This afternoon driving about 10 min and heard a "ding" and car stalled at a light. Re-started and ETC light was flashing and the ESP light was flashing. Went into a movie, came out, 5 minutes driving, "ding" same lights flashing all the way home.

What else could be causing this? Could a bum battery be at fault or is it something else? Car is out of warranty and I have been out of a job for over 2 months, so hopefully nothing expensive. Supposed to drive to Chicago in 2 weeks for the holidays ( 1000 miles each way ). Thanks again.

Ok, here are the codes:
P2173
P0123
P0222
P2111
P061A

 

my key dance shows no issues. but the check engine light does blink a few times and then goes solid. also the red lightening bolt comes up for a few seconds and disappears. Today when i was driving, same damn thing happened on the parkway. Gased it, and let completely off and the engine seems to shut down pretty hard. (you feel it) then i have to drop below 30mph before i can accelerate again. Its really pissing me off.
Mr Incredible, HELP! lol at:

 

my key dance shows no issues. but the check engine light does blink a few times and then goes solid. also the red lightening bolt comes up for a few seconds and disappears. Today when i was driving, same damn thing happened on the parkway. Gased it, and let completely off and the engine seems to shut down pretty hard. (you feel it) then i have to drop below 30mph before i can accelerate again. Its really pissing me off.
Mr Incredible, HELP! lol at:

k, engine did it again. and this time I got codes

P0123
P0222
P2101
P2110
P2111

Any help?

P0123 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "A" Circuit High
P0222 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "B" Circuit Low
P2101 - Throttle Actuator Control Motor Circuit Range/Performance
P2110 - Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Limited RPM
P2111 - Throttle Actuator Control System - Stuck Open

Those are many of the same codes I received. I disconnected the neg battery cable for about 30 min and then reconnected and took it out for a drive. It's been over a week and no stalling. Car seems to be running as usual.

G.I.G.O.

Garbage In, Garbage Out...

the PCM has a stream of bad data.. pull the negative battery cable for 10 minutes to reset the whole system..

somehow, like TopTrainer your PCM has gotten a bad stream of data and it keeps looping..

 

k, engine did it again. and this time I got codes

P0123
P0222
P2101
P2110
P2111

Any help?

 

Those are many of the same codes I received. I disconnected the neg battery cable for about 30 min and then reconnected and took it out for a drive. It's been over a week and no stalling. Car seems to be running as usual.

 

Just pulled it for 25 min and no success. Pulled it again and going to leave it off longer. Any other ideas?

 

not without a diagnostics of the car, like I told TT sounds like the Throttle Body has a connection issue or the solenoid that controls the actuator is bad.

I believe TT said the TB was only like $150

 

throttle body may be it, but when i floor it and let go of the gas the car seems to want to slow down fast, as if i was manual down shifting in stick. Cause when i let go of the gas, it doesnt instantly shut down, it takes a second or two and then just shuts down.

 

I'm about a year late to this post but I just went through the same problem and after replacing the throttle body (not it) the cam sensor (not it) transmission sensor (not it) and reprogramming the computer after two weeks at the dealership and them giving it back to me twice it to no avail it ended up being a defective catalytic convertor that was recalled...........now it runs great.

 

StNick,

I have been having the issue described here for almost 9 months. Have been to three dealerships and none have resolved the problem. I have replaced many parts with no luck and have a PCM (computer) on order. You are the first to mention a catalytic converter as the problem and now have me wondering if I should be looking that direction. How did they figure out that was it? Did you have an actual code that pointed that direction or did they run some test that indicated that was it? I have over 160k on my car and I know converters can, eventually, go bad but I didn't think that could cause the issues we were all having here.

At this point, I'm desperate for anything that might resolve the issue.

 

I am getting same issue now...

But just the P2101 no other codes....

Sometimes it be fine after a Restart, sometimes not....

I have check the battery and alternator...nothing there...

TopTrainer, did you ever get this fixed?

 

More Codes today...

0123
0222
2101
2110
2112
2111

at:at:at:

 

just curious if this is happening after you fill up the gas tank? my early build, 05 model 300c cannot be filled beyond the a quarter below the Full line or it will stall a couple of times till the gas level comes down a bit, known issue if you google it. car will restart no problem and stall again until the gas comes down a bit.

 

Nope...It won't even run now...I was able to restart it before and it would run for a few...Now I get the same thing..

I tried the trick posted by Mr. iNCREDIBLE, but now, it is no even making the CLICKING noises at:

Not sure what I am doing wrong...at:

 

I have been having the same problems.. My car only has about 65,000 miles on it. I changed out the ETC because of the error codes I was receiving and that still didn't fix the problem! I had a mechanic look at it and he said he didn't find anything wrong with the wiring so that's pretty much ruled out. We both suspect that it's the computer. I was reading where you could order a computer online for around 200 and something. It said it comes fully programmed to where all you have to do is plug it in.. They are supposed to be able to program it with your VIN and some other info.. You guys think that would work? I can't really afford to take it to the dealership. I'd rather spend around 300 instead of 1300...

 

oso19,

I had the same problem....replaced the Throttle Body and still had the issue...

Traced all the wires and did troubleshotting according to the service manual...

After many days of beating my head against the car, I finally decieded to just order a Replacement PCM and give it a try...

It showed up about a week later even with overnight as they have to programm it and test and ship...

Since the PCM replacement and the TB replacement, they car has been running better than BEFORE!!!!..



So, what I have heard of what happens (gotten this from a few sources), is that somethign shorts out the DRIVER MODULE within the PCM for the Throttle Body and then it will lose SYNC with the TB and that sets off the "Lightning Bolt"

So, with that said, for the price (Mine was $260 with overnight shipping), give the PCM reman replacement a try

 

I have the same excat problem on my 2006 300C SRT8 with 188xxxKM, I droped it off at the dealer today to get the PCM fix. Im crossing my fingers here. Ill let you know tomorrow how it goes.

 

how the result ? anyone solve the problem?

 

After the dealership had it a total of five times and it kept stalling they ended up replacing the main computer....at there cost because of how many times they gave it back to me un repaired, havent had a problem since

 

Hello,
New member here. I also own a Crystler 300 touring model. After 3 years, this weekend i experenced a similar issue. I was fortunate to make it home park, and now the car wont go into gear. I thought it was like a penny blocking the gear change, after cleaning out and taking the area where the gear shift is, it's still not going into gear. I then noticed the "warning" on the information panel, and the "lighting bolt" icon on. Now to add to my fusteration, the key won't come out the ignition. Please help, with out a $3000 mechanic bill. Please

Despert Susan

 

ohhh my god i was about to post about the same thing then i seen this, seem to be very common for this problem to happen, wtf