TTR: 2013 (2011+) Chrysler 300C FX-R 3.0 3" Retrofit - Chrysler 300C Forum: 300C & SRT8 Forums
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post #1 of 1 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 07:46 AM Thread Starter
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TTR: 2013 (2011+) Chrysler 300C FX-R 3.0 3" Retrofit


This is my first retrofit ever. I dove in head first and had acquired A LOT of information off the Headlight Junkies Facebook Page as well as a local friend with a huge knowledge database brain.

2013 Chrysler 300C 5.7L RWD (Bagged)

Retrofit Components:
-Morimoto FX-R 3.0 With 3" Lens
(Etched Lens With 'Worn Flag' Design)
-Apollo 3.0 Shrouds
-Morimoto XB 6500K Bulbs
-Morimoto XB55 50W Ballasts
-Diode Dynamics RGBW Demon Eyes
-Diode Dynamics HD Amber Strips
-Lightwerkz RGBW 80mm Halos w/ Diffuser
-Clear Reflector Side Markers Through Lightwerkz
-Starry Night Halos RGBW "DRL" Ribbon
(This product was specifically made for this build, prototyped and all from components I supplied to them from the headlight)

Mounting Method:
OEM Brackets Cut to Fit / JB Weld

The Backstory:
Well, originally I used to be one of "those guys" that'd throw a simple Plug and Play HID kit in, and I topped it off with a 'Colorshift' kit from Oracle. I thought I was living large on top of the world showing it off everywhere and all. Then ... I came across Headlight Junkies on Facebook and slowly started realizing I was WAY WRONG. And that you can way "cooler" with a full retrofit and some goodies as well. Thus began my journey deep into the unknown of doing a full Retrofit on my 2013 300C. Started with the research. First I found on 300CForums that there had only been two retrofits so far and they both used the FX-R. I figured it'd be in my best interest to do the same projector for best fitment. However, these threads within the 300CF pages didn't really help me a lot. They really only helped me do some trimming on the OEM projector brackets. Even which, the mounting method mentioned and shown on their thread didn't work for me at all. I had to trim a lot more just to get a good fitment with the FX-R into the brackets. No worries though - JB weld was my friend. Each day I'd scroll the HJ FB Page and pick up tips and tricks and whys and why not's and all. And with a good friend of mine local with enough patients, I was able to obtain everything I needed to start the job.

Step 1:
Removed bulbs and dust caps - Baked headlights in oven 225 for 15 minutes and carefully pried the lens from the housing. Cleared out as much butyl from the channel as I could.

Step 2:
Remove components within the Headlights. Few screws here and there, everything came apart with ease. Definitely easy to navigate around in there.

Step 3:
Trimming OEM Brackets to Fit FX-R projectors. Used Dremel tool.

Step 4:
Aimed Projectors. I trimmed the brackets enough to freely fit the Projector within them to be able to play with aiming. I mounted the housings with brackets in, on the car itself and rotated/aimed the projector cut-off at the correct heights and rotations. Slapped some Quick-Steel to hold the projector in place, and then JB welded all the way around heavily to secure the two pieces together. Now the bracket and FX-R are one.

Step 5:
Trim to fit Shrouds. The other build threads I had read from 300CF had mentioned no need for shrouds, that the OEM ones would work. However, I want to be different.. I picked up some Apollo 3.0 shouds with the original intentions of having a Halo behind them, and a halo in front. Shortly found out that the halo behind them would be almost unseen/useless with the way the bracket mounts the projector with the bezel of the headlight. Threw out the halo behind idea, and stuck with the halo in front. No worries there! I cut up the shrouds accordingly with the Brackets. Off to Paint with the main bezel.

Step 6:
Mounted Lightwerkz RGBW Halos w/ Diffusers to Shroud and secured in place with two different kinds of Epoxy. JB Weld and Plastic Epoxy. Ran wires accordingly and then JB welded/Epoxy Shroud to Brackets with Projector.

Step 7:
Used some Heat Shrink around the components on the board of the RGBW Demon Eyes for protection. I filed/shaved some of the housing on the FX-R Projectors on top to make extra play room for the eyes to slide in. I then secured them in place with JB weld. (However, I don't recommend this method, I should have shaved them a little more, drilled a hole in top and secured them with the mounting hole on the board.)

Step 8:
Now that the Projectors are mounted on the OEM Brackets, Demon Eyes are mounted, Shrouds are mounted, and Halos are mounted, we can set those aside.
I had an issue with one of the headlights I had purchased to use for this build. It was a TYC 2011 version, and had pieces broken within. I had to purchase a ball mount from the TRS website, and then epoxy the other side of the mount that clips the bracket, on to the ball mount with some trimming. Good to go.
After this, I started working on the side markers / reflectors. I swapped out the Amber reflectors with the Clear reflectors, and then discarded the four small OEM LEDs that sit behind the reflector. I've replaced these with the Diode Dynamics HD Strips. I had purchased two 6 inch strips, cut them in half and soldered them as a pair. These took place of the Amber side marker. I did some Dremel trimming of the reflector and chrome bezel behind it to optimize fitment for the strips. I will be using these strips as a DRL amber side marker, as well as the brightest setting connected with the turn signal so while it'll be on it's dim setting, it'll flash brighter along with the turn signal itself. I also upgraded the OEM turn signal to a brighter LED. (No resistor needed with this particular LED)

Step 9: ***** CURRENT*****
This is where I am currently at right now in this build. I'm awaiting the prototype age test of the RGBW ribbons from Starry Night at this time, and then to get my headlight components back along with the new ribbons for install. I can't wait to finish these headlights. As soon as these parts come in, I will be able to continue this write up along with some of the small behind the scenes type stuff like running the millions of wires I have added through the back using a few different methods. I'll also need to come up with a surefire way of mounting all the Drivers safely behind the headlights.

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