[Dixietwister]

Sorry I posted, I didn't think that I was abusing the car by a 0 to 60 test. Dealer sevice thinks it may be abuse, so I may have given them grounds for divorce.

 

[steves300c]

I have a Vericom Performance Computer, and went out to check the 0 to 60 times on the 300c. I just left it in drive and only did a light power brake for each run. Run #1 was a 6.32 Run #2 Failed due to engine stumble and nearly sutting off Run #3 was a 6.39 Run #4 and run #5 were the same at a 6.16 I am troubled that the engine stumbled so badly on that run. Also, between runs and at idle the engine stumbled and shut off. I looked at the computer readings on the dash and at the LAST CHIME REG it said Low Oil and VMM 319. Does anyone have an idea on what is causing the problem. My oil pressure is ok and I am using the correct oil. My oil level is good. Please let me know if you are having any of the same problems. Also after running it easy for a couple of days, the engine sounds like it is hitting the rev limiter before if shifts gears, if I max it in drive ( from a stop). Only does it the first time I max it out. Thanks for any help. Dixie

I know the handhelds such as Gtech aren't too accurate, but those 0-60 times are disappointing. When this car was first released, I read C&D got a 5.3 0-60. 6.1 to 6.4 is a BIG difference from 5.3. Very disappointing. Sorry to hear that.
I had that problem with mine(Last Chime REG - low oil), cept mine would chime taking off from a start. Oil level was fine, then when I changed the oil the first time, it did it 2 more times, then hasn't done it since. The dealer thought it might have been the older software version causing the intermittent problem, so they updated it with a newer version 3.61 or something? It was dated 7/27/04.
I just had a problem yesterday though. Blasting up a hill with no traffic, the car stayed in second to 70, when I backed off the throttle, it stayed in second for about 5-10 seconds, before going down to 3rd then 4th. I'm really beginning to doubt the reliability and accuracy of this trans now.
Too much electronically controlled stuff for me.
Knowing the way I am with cars, I'll probably be selling this car next summer and getting the GTO. LS2, 400hp and a manual 6 spd trans.

 

[II kings 9:20]

No one else has reproduced the 5.3 that C&D had. I have seen 5.8-6.3, I suspect some monkey business vis a vis a "pre production" model. steves300c, have you considered a Mustang Cobra, it will likely pack 400hp, have IRS, and the best part is it does not look like a 10 year old Grand AM. Too bad neither Ford nor GM saw fit to put ESP or window curtains in these 05 models, these safety items are at least 8 years old, what idiots, they could have at least made them extra cost items.

 

[pro-five-oh]

I think C&D got a ringer for that test.

 

[dodgeboy]

I think C&D got a ringer for that test.

Possibly one without torque management?

Dave

 

[rdmac]

Dixie

In the "What have you blown away" thread NYCaraudio clocked 5.34 0-60 and 13.93 1/4 mile using a Gtech pro. Its early on in the thread. There are so manmy variables to contend with.

Bob

 

[steves300c]

Well Guys, I've put on the Borla exhaust and have some updated 0 to 60 times. I made several runs, and the best time was a 5.70 sec run. The best times before the Borla were 6.16.You can spin the tires so easy, that you can really mess up a run ( if you light them up). I also found out that if you leave the ESP, on and come off hard, it will just about kill the engine. If you turn it off and come off hard, it lights up the tires, and kills the times. You can turn off the ESP and light the tires a little, and back off a bit, and then gag it, and you get good times (but not consistent). You can leave the ESP on and just floor it from about 1200RPM's and get just about the same times (probably more consistent, but doesn't sound as impressive). I have a lot of air in tires to help with the crown sensitivity, and that will hurt the times. With good rubber the times would be much more impressive. Also found out the the rough idle, that I have been getting, goes away if I use Premium gas. Doesn't seem to change the 0 to 60 times. Car also seems to be faster before the oil temp gets up, and the oil pressure begins to fall. Any comments welcome. Dixie

Bring the rear psi down to about 22 psi, pb to about 2800 rpms, then mash it(with ESP off).
Should give you minimal spin and better 0-60. One thing to keep in mind though, the pavement where I live is very cold, maybe it is where you are too? Tires will spin super easy on it. I get my car sideways back and forth on dry pavement when I just floor it at about 25 mph. Don't know what my tire pressure is though, I haven't checked it since like Sept.
Times are looking better.

 

[Dutch]

You can't compare times with G-Techs because they're just not accurate. Mounted in the same car, one will be consistent, but you can't compare times between cars, or expect accuracy. The only way to know how fast your car is is to take it to the track.

I'm sure the main difference in speeds is how aggressively people launch their car - most probably just mash the gas pedal to the floor and hang on. C&D probably wound it up to 4,000 RPM and launched it like a race car. Not many people want to do that to a car they own. Especially not with 400 lb/ft hooked to a questionable German rear end.

 

[II kings 9:20]

Are you guys sitting down, 0-60 is great for magazine comparisons but otherwise a pretty useless figure. As rdmac posted, so many variables, adjusting tire pressure and other desparate measures are great for the strip but useless unless you ride around like that. A far more useful figure is 5-60. My RX8 went 0-60 in 5.9 with an 8000rpm clutch drop, try that a dozen times and you will be buying a new clutch, the 5-60 was 7.5, very telling of no torque. IMHO the mash and go thrust instant response is far more important than a 3000rpm brake torque launch which 99% of us dont do in 100% of our driving. Kind of like taking your $80K Range Rover into the weeds on a fishing trip with your buddies, happens infrequently to never. Admittedly I rely on 0 and 5-60 among other parameters to compare all cars.

 

[turbohips]

II Kings 9:20,
Excellent thinking. I too agree that the track time have nothing to do with everyday driving. First off, are any of you race car drivers? and secondly, who the hell is going to race a 300C? kids at heart but really come on. Maybe since I'm in SoCal and there really is no open road I feel this way. To each their own.

 

[Dixietwister]

Checking 0-60 times is a good way to let you compare how your car is performing as compared to other cars of the same type. I agree that the 20MPH to 70 times are easier to duplicate later on. It sure helps to know if there is something begining to cause your HP to fail. The old Vericom Performance computer really works nice. You learn a lot about your car that you may never know, unless you have an emergency need for that skill. I agree that it foolish to repeatedly launch a $40,000 auto, just for the fun of it, unless you have a lot more money, than I do. I uncovered problems that I would have never known about. 1st if you spin the tires in the ESP mode it will nearly kill the engine, and not recover until you let off the gas. Spin the tires in the ESP mode and the engine will lose power after you have traction and should be well on your way. Launch in the ESP mode, without spining the tires and your engine will pull fairly hard to 5500rpm's. ESP sucks on this car. The Conti tires suck. To many other problem's for this car to be considered a performance car. I'm just going to baby mine so that it doesn't fall apart, and hope I can get a good resell for it. Anyone else have the front end shimmy when the road surface changes or you hit a bump. Hope it's the tires. Changing then Monday. Also going to take the Borla off in a few days. Sounds like Crap when it drops into the 4 cylinder mode. Finally got my right pull fixed (at Sears), buy someone who had no idea what a cradle shift was. WE, as in he and I just followed the recommended spec's on the latest service spec's. Took about 5 hours to get it right, so no wonder the dealers don't want to correct it. Make sure you get the caster positive on the right side by 0.8 degrees over the left side to make it less sensitive to the crown. Drives great now. Car is a good turnpike cruiser. I guess I'm just an old (57) *******, because I am enjoying my 20 year old toys more than this super tec wonder. The computer gets screwed up if you drive it easy for a day or two, and decide to launch it fairly hard. The transmission forgets where to shift and either the plugs need cleaning off or or the computer needs to learn how to go fast again. Still can't seem to really make myself dislike the car. The good looks real draws and crowd and all the advertising makes the HEMI badge feared. More show than go, but maybe aftermarket can help solve the problems. Dixie

 

[Dixietwister]

Oh, did race cars (drags, circle track, dirt, late model super stock, and motorcrossed) but that has nothing to do with wanting the most out of the much publicized Chrysler 300C HEMI.

 

[Northern Rider]

Oh, did race cars (drags, circle track, dirt, late model super stock, and motorcrossed) but that has nothing to do with wanting the most out of the much publicized Chrysler 300C HEMI.

Hi Dixie,

Did the race thing and lots of National level rallying too. I'm not big on 0-60 times as a benchmark. Torque on hand at any speed, in any driving condition is what really counts, in my book. The Hemi never disappoints in this department. There are very few cars that can keep up with it, even on the twisty bits.

As to show or go, all I can say is mine goes. The bump steer is a factor of tires and also an overly tight Mercedes steering system. It goes away by 5 or 6000 miles.

As to the computer, it's a new car. If you get the 3.61 upgrade, the confusion problems go away. I had those problems at first. It knows what I want now (it's not 28 mpg runnin' on 4 cylinders).

The Contis on this car are not a performance tire. If you want performance - the springs, shocks and brakes are up to it - go to a 8" wide performance tire on the 18" wheels.

The Hemi engine, Getrag 5 speed transmission, driveshaft and rear end don't really need babying - they are proven products and tougher than most out there.

Give this car a chance, Dixie. As a gearhead, I think you'll find it grows on you.

 

[Dixietwister]

Hello NR, You are right. I think I just let a little bit of dealer service, or lack of, get under my skin. They are reading my post, so I am a little touchy. It can be a great car. They won't give me the 3.61 for some reason. I have the 3.60 and I think mine came with the 3.61. 8/04 build date. For some reason after service, it went to 3.60, but I was told they didn't mess with that part. They did do a computer upgrade and rechecked and said I have the latest ver. I order a set of 245/50/18 from Sears. They sold them, at TireRack prices, which was about $80 less per tire than they have for list. Sorry for the Neg attitude earlier. Oh, the Vericom lets you compute max HP, which I use along with the other data. It also helps me figure how much fuel grade was helping or hurting performance. Compurter retarting advance and knock sensor, etc. Thanks for your coments. Dixie

 

[Northern Rider]

Dixie, I knew you were a true Gearhead!

I think the new tires will make a big difference. As to service, don't let the [email protected]$^@*! grind you down - maybe shop for a better dealer service dept.

Enjoy your ride - and - keep the rubber side down

 

[II kings 9:20]

Dixie, I found out unless you have a specific complaint related to the 3.60 they won't upgrade. The needed complaint to get the upgrade I used was (all true) the outside temp reading was slow and very erratic, upgraded without any problems. I do have the "bump steer" in the steering wheel with the self seals which interestingly is better at 4400 miles, it really vexed me early on. My right drift was corrected at the dealer and crown sensitivity has improved over time but I'll keep your specs in mind in case I need them.