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Cool-V '05 300c Blondie
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thanks to all who post here. The many tips & techniques shared in this forum have provided much needed insight and understanding. I've finally got my Hemi, an 05 RWD 300c, thanks to a deer which totaled my '13 300 (Pentastar) AWD.

This is a thread sharing what occurred: Thought I’d found a jewel. Idled smooth, ran strong (local test drive)…155k, but impeccably maintains, egr valve, regular oil & tranny service, from battery to CV... receipts!

Now skip ahead to the ride home: pulled onto the highway strong… settling into the car a bit… went to pass someone, and it lost power… sputtering, shaking… was grateful it made it home.

During most of the torment, there were no codes. The MIL would flash because of the misfiring, but no code. Though P1416 code finally came up after more than a week…

#6 was misfiring, and so we changed the coil and plugs. It seemed fine… till the MDS engaged, and it was the same shake rattle and roll it back to the garage. So replaced all the coils, plugs & wires… repeat the same scenario.

Fast forward to the finally: three of the new solenoids had gone bad. One solenoid would consistently engage but not resume. The other two were shorted.

The caveat here is that there was a receipt for all four MDS solenoids being replaced at the stealership less than a thousand mile ago (4 months). The solenoids we pulled were pristine, the previous owner didn’t get screwed.

This may or may not be a factor: during the ‘check wiring’ part of the trouble shoot we had trouble starting the car. We found the harness running to the tranny had been cooked by the exhaust. While poking around, we’d allowed the frail wires to short. After repairing the wiring, the car started and we pulled the intake to find the faulty solenoid(s). #6 would activate but not resume, and two others were shorted… replaced all (again).

Blondey is to be my daily driver for some time to come. Given the hundreds of miles logged each week commuting, and gas bouncing off $4 per gal... eliminating MDS wasn't an option.
 

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Cool-V '05 300c Blondie
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293 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
It's just over a weeks since things looked resolved. The gremlins were just toying with me... those rascally fiends.

I don't doubt what my mechanic found or did... but clearly, this wasn't all that's going on. The dreaded miss, and code P1414 came up along with the MIL. Restarting the car did nothing, and even after an hour sitting, the rough idle remained. Pulling fuses clear the codes & rough idle.

But how was it good for those first few commutes? (I asked myself)... turns out the mds coming on at low speed is the problem spot when it's cold. It engages, and does't want to release all the cylinders (seems to keep one down). If it's not allowed to come on till it's at highway speeds, it's ok and being that I was very happy to have my hemi back and enjoying the pull... so the first few days all seemed ok.

One of the posts here clued me into the autostick keeping mds off line. So, now it gets shifted to '4' w/autostick and not 'D' when it starts out of the driveway. Once on the interstate, and warmed up, it gets put into drive without complications. Any change in throttle, and there's a semi-hiccup but just an instant. I'm assuming it's the mds cycling, but stand to be corrected.

Aside from sharing for those who may be looking for idea's/solutions to their troubles, I'm curious to ask: Is there anything other than the MDS which is affected by using autostick?

Thanks for any input or suggestions...
 

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Shift quality.
 

· Registered
Cool-V '05 300c Blondie
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293 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Finally, something that worked! Diablo inTune i3 to the rescue ;)
Simply went into the 'edit stock tune' and turned off the MDS. A great tool, simple and straight forward.

Weather, and physical limitations keep me from wrenching on the ol' gal right now. The shop has done what was appropriate, but the bills are more than half what the car cost and the holidays are here. At this point, either the ECU is glitching or it's reacting to bad input. Either way, the cost of going any further at this time can't be uncertain, and trouble shooting can be a big uncertainty. $400 for the Diablo, turn MDS off and it's done till the weather gets warm and I'm able to do the work... and now, I have a tuner for when it's time to play.

Fuel economy had been 18-19 commuting, but there isn't much constant cruise speed here in central CT. Highly populated area, and dense road conditions. That 18-19 was consistent for the few weeks it's been in service... it's what the gage read, and what was calculated at the pump. Will be curious to see if anything changes.

edit: 11-2022, added the path for an i3 mds off, on an '05 300c

Diablo i3 (purchased 2021),
choose 'Tune Vehicle' then 'continue'
'Advanced Tune' => 'Tune Select' => 'Modify Parameters'

There are three screen which you can now arrow down thru.
The current/first screen displays:
'Cooling Fans AC off'
'Cooling Fans AC on'
'Idle'
'MDS'
Once you made your choices, follow the prompts to load the changes/tune to the pcm. The existing tune reloads, doesn't unload what's already there. This is where MDS gets turned on/off and fan setting are changed if you opt to run a cooler t-stat. The other screens contain Rev & Speed Limits, Throttle, Tire Size, Traction Control, Transmission, WOT Fuel, WOT Spark.
 
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