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Discussion Starter #1
ive owned my 300c for a few months now and havent had many issues with it, but recently if i step on the gas hard (going from 35 to 60 or passing) my car will accelerate for a few seconds before cutting the throttle off. if i take my foot off the throttle and put it back on it will come back. there are no lights coming on when this happens. my car has the 5.7 hemi. thank you.
 

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Welcome to the forum. Are there any diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) showing? You can do the "key dance" (do a search for the procedure) or go to an auto parts store and most will put their code reader on it for free if you don't have a good quality reader. Post the code(s) on here. All this being said, there are a number of things that can cause "bogs, surges and/or stalls" while under power. A good diagnostic scan and, hopefully some freeze frame data should point you in the right direction.

Also, if you don't know the current maintenance status of this "new to you" vehicle, you should start by going over EVERYTHING in the drive train for sure and everything else as you feel necessary so you won't continually surprised by similar problems. This will, no doubt, take some time and $$$ but, in the end you'll know the complete maintenance status. I have 3 Hemi vehiicles, one for over 15 years (90K miles), one for over 10 years (114K miles), and the third (170K miles) for less than a year. I've never had a failure of any kind (other than fair wear and tear items) UNTIL just last week with the newest and highest mileage one. Over the last year I've gone through almost everything but, obviously haven't "ironed out" all the bugs yet. It's up on hoist in my garage right now awaiting a starter which should be here tomorrow. What failed is the crank sensor which is behind the starter and, since the starter was off, with 170K on it, I am just replacing it with a new (not remanufactured) one. Also, while I was under it, I dropped the transmission pan and am doing a fluid/filter/pan with a drain plug change. I'll also replace the cam sensor while I am at it. Total cost for parts was around $300 and labor is zero......probably around $2000 plus if it were taken to the stealer......and then who knows if it would be fixed properly.

Good luck with your new vehicle and keep us posted on your findings.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Welcome to the forum. Are there any diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) showing? You can do the "key dance" (do a search for the procedure) or go to an auto parts store and most will put their code reader on it for free if you don't have a good quality reader. Post the code(s) on here. All this being said, there are a number of things that can cause "bogs, surges and/or stalls" while under power. A good diagnostic scan and, hopefully some freeze frame data should point you in the right direction.

Also, if you don't know the current maintenance status of this "new to you" vehicle, you should start by going over EVERYTHING in the drive train for sure and everything else as you feel necessary so you won't continually surprised by similar problems. This will, no doubt, take some time and $$$ but, in the end you'll know the complete maintenance status. I have 3 Hemi vehiicles, one for over 15 years (90K miles), one for over 10 years (114K miles), and the third (170K miles) for less than a year. I've never had a failure of any kind (other than fair wear and tear items) UNTIL just last week with the newest and highest mileage one. Over the last year I've gone through almost everything but, obviously haven't "ironed out" all the bugs yet. It's up on hoist in my garage right now awaiting a starter which should be here tomorrow. What failed is the crank sensor which is behind the starter and, since the starter was off, with 170K on it, I am just replacing it with a new (not remanufactured) one. Also, while I was under it, I dropped the transmission pan and am doing a fluid/filter/pan with a drain plug change. I'll also replace the cam sensor while I am at it. Total cost for parts was around $300 and labor is zero......probably around $2000 plus if it were taken to the stealer......and then who knows if it would be fixed properly.

Good luck with your new vehicle and keep us posted on your findings.
as i said in the original post there are no lights on the dash by which i meant no trouble codes. i know the complete history of the vehicle and that it was maintained well as it was always owned by family members and i have every receipt to go with the car. my grandmother owned the car for the last 10 years and took it either to the dealership or me for maintenance or repairs. sometimes the check engine light flashes on when it cuts the throttle but it does not stay on and no codes show up when i "do the key dance" (love that phrase) or scan it with my pocket scan tool. the check engine light usualy doesnt show up when this issue occurs but it has once or twice before. i dont have a live reading tool to try to diagnose the issue with, do you think that that would be a good place to start? i might order one of those bluetooth ones and drive around until the check engine light flashes on for me.
 

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My 2006 300 SRT has done the same thing. No codes on the (limited) OBD history info our cars provide.
Problem ended up "healing itself" so far (48 k miles) I did have an issue with the evap valve, causing the engine to die at idle intermittently (again no codes, no check engine).
 

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You should really use a scanner that can give you current, historical and stored codes....they won't all show up with the key dance. Also, it should be able to read ALL MODULES and be able to record "freeze frame data so you can see (if it throws any type code) what is going on when this occurs. If the problem is transmission related, most "low end" scanner won't read them either....only P0700 which is telling you that there is a problem with the transmission.

Until you're able to get it scanned, on the steering wheel buttons, you may want to try pushing and holding the "note" and "compass" buttons at the same time, holding them down for 3-5 seconds. This will take you to an "Easter Egg" on the EVIC and show software version, a bunch of other gee whiz stuff but, most importantly, some of the engine related stats...actual oil pressure, battery voltage, engine temperature, etc. You may then want to monitor them and see if anything seems to be out of the ordinary when this occurs..
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You should really use a scanner that can give you current, historical and stored codes....they won't all show up with the key dance. Also, it should be able to read ALL MODULES and be able to record "freeze frame data so you can see (if it throws any type code) what is going on when this occurs. If the problem is transmission related, most "low end" scanner won't read them either....only P0700 which is telling you that there is a problem with the transmission.

Until you're able to get it scanned, on the steering wheel buttons, you may want to try pushing and holding the "note" and "compass" buttons at the same time, holding them down for 3-5 seconds. This will take you to an "Easter Egg" on the EVIC and show software version, a bunch of other gee whiz stuff but, most importantly, some of the engine related stats...actual oil pressure, battery voltage, engine temperature, etc. You may then want to monitor them and see if anything seems to be out of the ordinary when this occurs..
i didnt know about the note and compass combo, thank you very much for telling me. im going to have to buy a new scanner, right now i have the pocket scan plus wich is a lower end tool.
 

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Ok so as of tonight the car seems to have stopped doing it... how odd! Anyway, i found the 0 to 60 timer in the compas+music not menue that was previously mentioned and got a 5.88 without any launch. Oil pressure and tempertures seem normal
 

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If it returns, you still need to get a good scanner on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If it returns, you still need to get a good scanner on it.
Planning on buying a diablo tuner of some sort i should be able to use as a scanner, not 100% sure wich one im gonna buy, looking at some used ones on ebay but ive gotta figure out wich ones are compatable with what and what licences i will need to use them
 
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