[Buterban]

Hey guys new to the forum I recently purchased a 2007 Chrysler 300 V6 3.5 I got it with the unlock/lock key no fob. He lost the key and could only get me that one to load on a trailer. Bought it knowing it had no crank no start figured it was the battery or original key. Guy drove it to work and it did the same to him as well when he went to leave. I got it home now and had a key with fob made and programmed by a local lock smith I also picked up a brand new battery. My problem is when I turn the ignition I don't get any cranking but the power on the dash and radio will light up then shuts off every 15-20 seconds then will turn back on after the same amount of time. No crank and no theft light on. Just stumped. I jumped the starter relay and it turns over. So I'm assuming the start is good. Hoping for some input or some one who had a similar problem? Thanks in advance. Sorry about the rambling.

 

[CtCarl]

Guy drove it to work and it did the same to him as well when he went to leave.

I'm confused by this sentence. Most of your post makes it sound like you bought a car for which the previous owner had lost the key and that was why it wouldn't start. But that line makes it sound like there was a failure of some sort before the key was lost.

Can you clarify?

 

[Buterban]

Sorry about that. He had the original key and miss placed it before I picked it up. The problem happened before the key was lost. I had a new one made today to eliminate that being an issue.

 

[CtCarl]

Sorry about that. He had the original key and miss placed it before I picked it up. The problem happened before the key was lost. I had a new one made today to eliminate that being an issue.

Okay, so we're talking about a possible anti-theft system failure that the previous owner observed even when he was in possession of the original fob.

Is the anti-theft light on, and what codes are you seeing?

 

[Buterban]

That is what it seems like, but the theft light is off with the new key. The main problem is when I turn the key over all lights and radio power up. After about 20 seconds everything powers down. And acts like a dead battery. If i move the key to off for about 1 minute then turn back on they light back up then again power off after 20 secs.

 

[CtCarl]

That is what it seems like, but the theft light is off with the new key. The main problem is when I turn the key over all lights and radio power up. After about 20 seconds everything powers down. And acts like a dead battery. If i move the key to off for about 1 minute then turn back on they light back up then again power off after 20 secs.

You have scanned for trouble codes, correct?

 

[Buterban]

I have not yet. I have a regular OBD2 scanner from harbor freight, do you think that will read any theft codes?

You have scanned for trouble codes, correct?

 

[CtCarl]

Okay, you've got a ton of communications codes there. Something is off between your ABS module, your PCM, and TCM.

With that many communications errors, I'd suspect a power or ground problem. The very first step I'd take would be to verify that all of your chassis grounds are clean and tight. It wouldn't hurt to add a heavy-duty braided ground strap like the Standard B12G.

Next I'd check all of your connectors very carefully. The most likely culprits would be those on your underhood TIPM or rear PDC. I've seen flood-damaged cars where the TIPM and/or PDC are contaminated and corroded.

You could also be looking at a bad battery. You would be surprised at the ways a bad or borderline battery can present itself with LX/LD cars, they can behave as though they're haunted.

Once you're sure your power is clean and solid, you can start troubleshooting individual modules. I'd start with TCM, but ABS and PCM are suspect as well.

 

[Buterban]

Okay, you've got a ton of communications codes there. Something is off between your ABS module, your PCM, and TCM.

With that many communications errors, I'd suspect a power or ground problem. The very first step I'd take would be to verify that all of your chassis grounds are clean and tight. It wouldn't hurt to add a heavy-duty braided ground strap like the Standard B12G.

Next I'd check all of your connectors very carefully. The most likely culprits would be those on your underhood TIPM or rear PDC. I've seen flood-damaged cars where the TIPM and/or PDC are contaminated and corroded.

You could also be looking at a bad battery. You would be surprised at the ways a bad or borderline battery can present itself with LX/LD cars, they can behave as though they're haunted.

Once you're sure your power is clean and solid, you can start troubleshooting individual modules. I'd start with TCM, but ABS and PCM are suspect as well.

Thanks for the information I'm going to get back to trouble shooting I appreciate the info. I'll get back to ya!

 

[Buterban]

Okay, you've got a ton of communications codes there. Something is off between your ABS module, your PCM, and TCM.

With that many communications errors, I'd suspect a power or ground problem. The very first step I'd take would be to verify that all of your chassis grounds are clean and tight. It wouldn't hurt to add a heavy-duty braided ground strap like the Standard B12G.

Next I'd check all of your connectors very carefully. The most likely culprits would be those on your underhood TIPM or rear PDC. I've seen flood-damaged cars where the TIPM and/or PDC are contaminated and corroded.

You could also be looking at a bad battery. You would be surprised at the ways a bad or borderline battery can present itself with LX/LD cars, they can behave as though they're haunted.

Once you're sure your power is clean and solid, you can start troubleshooting individual modules. I'd start with TCM, but ABS and PCM are suspect as well.

I ended up getting it started! I had a blown fuse in the truck a 10amp and then all my power stayed on inside. Still didn't crank I ended up wiggling one of the ecm connectors and heard the fuel pump kick on and it fired right up. It has a loose connection to ecm. I appreciate you taking the time and trying to help me.

 

[CtCarl]

I ended up getting it started! I had a blown fuse in the truck a 10amp and then all my power stayed on inside. Still didn't crank I ended up wiggling one of the ecm connectors and heard the fuel pump kick on and it fired right up. It has a loose connection to ecm. I appreciate you taking the time and trying to help me.

Glad it worked out