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Discussion Starter #1
The Drivers door on my 2005 Chrysler 300C door won't lock and unlock with the door button or Key Fob. All other doors and trunk will lock and unlock with key fob and door button. I found out about the problem, when I went to open my door to get something out of it and the alarm went off. Thinking I accidentally hit the panic button, I just turned it off and then closed the door hit the key fob to lock all of the doors and went about my business. When I came back about 3 hours later the drivers door was unlocked. Thinking that I had forgot to lock it earlier, I just opened the door and the alarm went off again. This time I knew I didn't hit any buttons on the key fob, so immediately knew there was a problem. When I got in the car to start it the battery was run down. I jumped the battery started the car and drove for about :45 min. before shuting it off and then immediately started it again to make sure it would start (it did). I then tried to lock it with the key fab and all of the doors locked except the driver's door. I used the door button and same result. I thought maybe since it was so cold it was just the door being stubborn. Went back out about 2 hours later and the battery was dead again. Put it on the charger and was able to start it up again a couple hours later. Still same problem with drivers door lock though.
Any thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, I can use the key in the outside lock to lock and unlock the door as well as pull the lock up and push it down on the inside. I thought about it being the actuator, but didn't understand why the battery would go dead if it was just the actuator for that door?
 

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It could be possible that you're dealing with two separate problems. It's been along time since I worked on cars (buses now), and I realize technology changed a lot these past years. But I would start by taking the door panel off and do a visual of what's happening when you try and lock and lock the door. Possible that the link that holds the rod to the door latch, or actuator broke.
 

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Drivers door lock

What you have is broken wires where they cross from the car into the door. I found five broken wires in that tube. I had this same problem with my 2000 Viper GTS.
 

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Two weeks ago I developed the same problem as the OP. Dealership told me a new lock actuator was needed at a cost of $400+. Saw this post, pulled the rubber boot back on the driver's door and found 4 broken wires. Ten minutes later, all locks work perfectly and the passenger-side power mirror controls (dead since I bought the car) are also back online.

If you're having any kind of problem with an electrical component that involves the driver's door/door controls, absolutely check the wires running into the A-pillar before spending any money. Someone dropped the ball hard on that design point.
 
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