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Ok,I know you can modify them but how?
You'll need a handheld tuner to change the fan settings.

And also I bought some AutoZone universal coolant it says mixes with any color! For all makes and models. I plan on draining the system and flushing with water.will this be ok using that coolant?
I wouldn't use a universal coolant. Check your owner's manual to confirm, but your car should have come from the factory with HOAT coolant. Chrysler Pink HOAT isn't very expensive, but if you want to use something else, I'd suggest a good HOAT concentrate like Zerex G05.

Since you've no way of knowing what the previous owner(s) put in there, you should flush the system first with distilled water.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
You need to do a little research and pick one, then decide where you want to buy it.
Sounds like a plan but what ar they called and who makes them so I can research it
Thanks! Also found some fuses blown! I replaced and now everything works.. the info on dash works now as diesel steering column tilt and front windows! O ly thing I can't find the oil pressure on the info screen? And I drove car around block and tappet noise went away!! Even at idle
 

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Sounds like a plan but what ar they called and who makes them so I can research it
Thanks! Also found some fuses blown! I replaced and now everything works.. the info on dash works now as diesel steering column tilt and front windows! O ly thing I can't find the oil pressure on the info screen? And I drove car around block and tappet noise went away!! Even at idle
When I changed differentials I had to get a tuner to change gear ratios in the cars computer system. I got a diablo sport tuner which is a subsidiary of holly I believe, and also supposed to be one of the good ones for our series of cars, but I don't think it did fan settings. I can't remember for sure. If google the programmers they all have tech support numbers. The tech guys if you wait out the being put on hold for ever, are usually very helpful and could tell you if their product does what you need it for.

Another benefit to a good tuner is that you will never have to go to th parts store for ob2 codes anymore. They all have built in code reader functions, as far as I know.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Thanks! 👍
Ok I know this is a question you've been ask but how in the hell do you check oil pressure read out on the 300 digital display! I can scroll through and see other stuff even eng temp and rpms but how do I get to the oil pressure read out!! I can't find it!
Thanks
 

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Ok I know this is a question you've been ask but how in the hell do you check oil pressure read out on the 300 digital display! I can scroll through and see other stuff even eng temp and rpms but how do I get to the oil pressure read out!! I can't find it!
Thanks
On my '05 300C it works exactly as you saw in the video I linked to. The screen with the icon of an oil can displays the oil pressure. If that doesn't work in your car, I can't explain it.
 

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Hello I just bought a 2005 300c and I started it up and ran smooth and engine was quiet! Iool was very dirty so I cahnged it! Using the 5 20 like it says to do! I used Sipertech High mileage full synthetic! First time I started it after putting in 6 qrts is started up and smooth no noise! I then topped it off and started again! This time it had some tappet noise! Now Everytime I start it it has tappet noise! The temp here is 30° so it's not real cold! Car has 173k
Any help would be appreciated
Thanks!
Since the noise follows changing very dirty oil, the noise problem may be sludge or gummed up lifter or even the oil brand. I would run Motor Medic Motor Flush in the engine for five minutes. In my experience the lifter sounds goes away shortly after starting the engine with Motor Flush. Some think there is risk in running the cleaner, but I haven't had a problem with it, but go at your own risk! If the motor is extremely sludged, then the cleaner may break loose more sludge and could cause more concern, but then if there is that much sludge, you have a significant problem anyway. Change the oil and filter immediately after running it with Motor Flush. Use Castrol Edge gold colored bottle or the extended life version of Castrol Synthetic. Oil filter should be Mopar brand. They sell them at Walmart. Some oil filters are slower to get oil circulating at start up. If this fixes the noise, you might change the oil at short intervals for a period to get the engine cleaner.
 

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Ok,I know you can modify them but how? And also I bought some AutoZone universal coolant it says mixes with any color! For all makes and models. I plan on draining the system and flushing with water.will this be ok using that coolant?
Don't put that in your car! That coolant has 2EHA acid in it which eats head gaskets and destroys your engine. Such fluid is like Dextrol which was designed for GM engines that have different head gaskets. Mopar coolant is expensive, but not nearly as expensive as head gasket repair. If you can't afford original equipment Mopar, then you might try Zerex 05 which is a hybrid coolant and safer on gaskets. Peak "global lifetime" is a universal product that is safe, but hard to find. Don't confuse with Peak longlife which is not safe and does have 2EHA acid in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Since the noise follows changing very dirty oil, the noise problem may be sludge or gummed up lifter or even the oil brand. I would run Motor Medic Motor Flush in the engine for five minutes. In my experience the lifter sounds goes away shortly after starting the engine with Motor Flush. Some think there is risk in running the cleaner, but I haven't had a problem with it, but go at your own risk! If the motor is extremely sludged, then the cleaner may break loose more sludge and could cause more concern, but then if there is that much sludge, you have a significant problem anyway. Change the oil and filter immediately after running it with Motor Flush. Use Castrol Edge gold colored bottle or the extended life version of Castrol Synthetic. Oil filter should be Mopar brand. They sell them at Walmart. Some oil filters are slower to get oil circulating at start up. If this fixes the noise, you might change the oil at short intervals for a period to get the engine cleaner.
Thanks for reply and great advice I'll do that!!
 

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Hello I just bought a 2005 300c and I started it up and ran smooth and engine was quiet! Iool was very dirty so I cahnged it! Using the 5 20 like it says to do! I used Sipertech High mileage full synthetic! First time I started it after putting in 6 qrts is started up and smooth no noise! I then topped it off and started again! This time it had some tappet noise! Now Everytime I start it it has tappet noise! The temp here is 30° so it's not real cold! Car has 173k
Any help would be appreciated
Thanks!
Does the noise stop after a few seconds or is it continuous? If after just a few seconds, that's "probably" no big deal. When mine sits over the weekend, as it usually does, Monday AM startup ticks just for a few seconds because I guess the oil drains down. If it is continuous, and the oil was really dirty when you got it, there is no telling how regularly the oil was changed. It might benefit from one of those oil/cleaning/flush processes to clean the internals. ... now this is going back a long long time, but back in the 70's I bought a car that had really dirty oil. I ended up changing the oil, then after just a few hundred miles it was black again. I repeated oil change a few times with some kind of cleaning additive until it slowly cleaned up and could resume regular oil change intervals.
 

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Hello I just bought a 2005 300c and I started it up and ran smooth and engine was quiet! Iool was very dirty so I cahnged it! Using the 5 20 like it says to do! I used Sipertech High mileage full synthetic! First time I started it after putting in 6 qrts is started up and smooth no noise! I then topped it off and started again! This time it had some tappet noise! Now Everytime I start it it has tappet noise! The temp here is 30° so it's not real cold! Car has 173k
Any help would be appreciated
Thanks!
I owned a 2006 300C with only 46k miles when I bought it and it had about 69k miles on it when my ex friend crashed it and totaled it. That’s why we’re not friends anymore! Anyway, to answer your question the best way I can, I have been an auto technician for most of my adult life and career and my 300C with a 5.7 liter HEMI had tappet noise the whole time I owned it. There’s really nothing you can do about it, except just get used to it. It’s common. Also, don’t worry about it if you notice that your temperature gauge reads just below the half way point. That’s normal aa well, give or take a little bit below the half way point or just past it if you’ve been hammering on it for most of the time you’ve been driving it like I would do a lot of the time. What can I say? I loved that car! I had it as fast as it would go driving from San Jose, Ca heading north on highway 280 towards San Francisco one weekend early afternoon and I had command of the entire 4 or 5 lanes because there weren’t very many other cars on the road that particular day. I had it pegged in sport mode and the car just cruised so well I swear to god it felt like it knew what to do and drove itself. It was so effortless and comfortable going 135 miles per hour and so smooth and it even sat down a little bit as I’d cross each lane into the next one and waited just a half a second to show anyone who might have cared or had the authority to throw me in jail for criminal speed, that I wasn’t doing anybody else any harm, I was just having some fun and seeing what my car could do. I had my foot on the floor for about 3 minutes without letting up at all and the car seemed to love it!
Sorry, I got a little carried away there! Good job on the choice of oil.You are aware that you have to put full synthetic in your engine now and for the rest of its life, right? There’s no going back to regular oil now. You’re aware of that, right? I asked you that twice for a reason, so you are aware of that. Ok, I’ve told you enough times now. Butya, dude, don’t trip. A little lifter noise seems to be normal for those cars. I’ve even asked around and I have heard several people say that same thing so I wouldn’t worry about it if I were you. If you don’t trust me and the other people I asked, call around and ask your local Chrysler technician and make sure that he or she is well seasoned with the 300C 5.7 liter HEMI! Don’t trust just anybody with your ride! If you don’t learn anything else from what I just said to you, PLEASE learn from my mistakes and DON’T LEND IT OUT TO ANYBODY UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES! Believe me, if you do, they’ll never come back on time or AT ALL!!
Have a bunch of fun with your 300C! Let it rip once in a while, tgey love that! Learn how to handle it first though and don’t drive past your abilities! Very important to know your skill level andyour skill UNlevels. If you suck at driving you should know that and just enjoy your car but if you can drive and have a natural ability like I do, try your best to break it!! It’s a tough car! I’m extremely hard on equipment and I couldn’t break it after 25 thousand miles or so! Have fun!
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Don't put that in your car! That coolant has 2EHA acid in it which eats head gaskets and destroys your engine. Such fluid is like Dextrol which was designed for GM engines that have different head gaskets. Mopar coolant is expensive, but not nearly as expensive as head gasket repair. If you can't afford original equipment Mopar, then you might try Zerex 05 which is a hybrid coolant and safer on gaskets. Peak "global lifetime" is a universal product that is safe, but hard to find. Don't confuse with Peak longlife which is not safe and does have 2EHA acid in it.
Thanks so much for the advice I'll take that universal back and get the Xerox GO5 👍
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I found Peak global extended life.itcsays for heavy duty engines and show big rig on front! Is this what I use?
175621
 

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I found Peak global extended life.itcsays for heavy duty engines and show big rig on front! Is this what I use?
I don't know why you're asking about coolant again, but I'll recap.

If you check your owner's manual, you should find that the correct coolant for your car is Chrysler Pink HOAT. If you don't know what is in there now, you should perform a flush with distilled water to make sure that you get all of the old coolant out.

After a flush, it will be very difficult to get the correct ratio of coolant and water using premix. That's because your system will be filled with water, and unless you want to go through extraordinary measures such as blowing out your engine block and heater core with compressed air, there will always be a significant amount of water left in the system. So whatever coolant you choose, you'll need concentrate, not premix.

The part number for Chrysler Pink HOAT concentrate is 68048953AC. As it happens, I just bought some for less than $20 per gallon delivered to my door. Since it's 100% coolant, that's actually significantly cheaper than the Final Charge you found at Walmart, because that product is a premix, so you're really only getting a half-gallon of coolant for $12.56. So it's pretty clear that if you shop carefully, OEM coolant really isn't expensive at all.

But, if for some reason you don't want to use the OEM, Zerex G05 concentrate is a HOAT coolant and will do the job just fine. If you don't want to use either the OEM or Zerex G05, you can use Motorcraft Gold. If you don't want to use any of those, you can use whatever HOAT concentrate you want. But you shouldn't use Final Charge for two reasons, first, it is OAT, not HOAT, and not compatible with your car. Second, it is a premix, so again, if you do flush the system, it's going to be very difficult to wind up with the proper 50/50 mix if you start with a system partially full of water and refill with premix.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I don't know why you're asking about coolant again, but I'll recap.

If you check your owner's manual, you should find that the correct coolant for your car is Chrysler Pink HOAT. If you don't know what is in there now, you should perform a flush with distilled water to make sure that you get all of the old coolant out.

After a flush, it will be very difficult to get the correct ratio of coolant and water using premix. That's because your system will be filled with water, and unless you want to go through extraordinary measures such as blowing out your engine block and heater core with compressed air, there will always be a significant amount of water left in the system. So whatever coolant you choose, you'll need concentrate, not premix.

The part number for Chrysler Pink HOAT concentrate is 68048953AC. As it happens, I just bought some for less than $20 per gallon delivered to my door. Since it's 100% coolant, that's actually significantly cheaper than the Final Charge you found at Walmart, because that product is a premix, so you're really only getting a half-gallon of coolant for $12.56. So it's pretty clear that if you shop carefully, OEM coolant really isn't expensive at all.

But, if for some reason you don't want to use the OEM, Zerex G05 concentrate is a HOAT coolant and will do the job just fine. If you don't want to use either the OEM or Zerex G05, you can use Motorcraft Gold. If you don't want to use any of those, you can use whatever HOAT concentrate you want. But you shouldn't use Final Charge for two reasons, first, it is OAT, not HOAT, and not compatible with your car. Second, it is a premix, so again, if you do flush the system, it's going to be very difficult to wind up with the proper 50/50 mix if you start with a system partially full of water and refill with premix.
Ok I did the flush and refill with50/50 premix Zerex G05 coolant.i noticed temp got up to 230 ° and no fans came on I checked fan relay and it's good I noticed little steam out tail pipe when running no water in oil and runs ok so I must have leaking head gasket! I tried blue devil head gasket pour n go but in the 50 minutes it's suppose to idle it got hot again so I shut off engine. It didn't work so 70.00 down the drain! So I'm going to do head gaskets myself I'm a mechanic and have little experiance! Car has 174k I'm sure this has timing chain not belt so should I replce the chain while car is basically tore down??
 

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Ok I did the flush and refill with50/50 premix Zerex G05 coolant.i noticed temp got up to 230 ° and no fans came on I checked fan relay and it's good I noticed little steam out tail pipe when running no water in oil and runs ok so I must have leaking head gasket! I tried blue devil head gasket pour n go but in the 50 minutes it's suppose to idle it got hot again so I shut off engine. It didn't work so 70.00 down the drain! So I'm going to do head gaskets myself I'm a mechanic and have little experiance! Car has 174k I'm sure this has timing chain not belt so should I replce the chain while car is basically tore down??
Just curious, how did you manage to get all of the water out of the system after the flush? Refilling with 50/50 premix means that you have to get pretty much every drop out in order to get the correct 50/50 coolant/water ratio.

I wouldn't have suggested the Blue Devil. For starters, how did you come to the conclusion that the head gaskets were bad? Did you pressure test the system?

If the fans aren't coming on, you definitely have some other problem to figure out. If you're a mechanic with some experience and you want to jump right to the head gaskets, I guess there's no harm there. It's not a bad job, but the gaskets, seals and bolts will definitely cost you a few bucks. You might want to do a compression test first. With 174k, I'd want to make sure my short block is solid before I spent the time and money on the top end. Do you have a local machine shop that can clean the heads and check them for you? They're aluminum, so they're light and easy to work with, but can't be Magnafluxed.

Judgement call on the timing chain, but not a bad idea if it's in your budget.
 

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Just curious, how did you manage to get all of the water out of the system after the flush? Refilling with 50/50 premix means that you have to get pretty much every drop out in order to get the correct 50/50 coolant/water ratio.

I wouldn't have suggested the Blue Devil. For starters, how did you come to the conclusion that the head gaskets were bad? Did you pressure test the system?

If the fans aren't coming on, you definitely have some other problem to figure out. If you're a mechanic with some experience and you want to jump right to the head gaskets, I guess there's no harm there. It's not a bad job, but the gaskets, seals and bolts will definitely cost you a few bucks. You might want to do a compression test first. With 174k, I'd want to make sure my short block is solid before I spent the time and money on the top end. Do you have a local machine shop that can clean the heads and check them for you? They're aluminum, so they're light and easy to work with, but can't be Magnafluxed.

Judgement call on the timing chain, but not a bad idea if it's in your budget.
Well car was blowing some steam from tail pipes! Not a lot! No watw in oil but the thermostat was out and after about 20 min it heats up to 235 ° it says that on the info center on dash! The gauge for some reason doesn't go past middle! And also after warms up coolant rises in radiator over fill! Fans do t come on and I tried to jump them but nothing! ( If I did that right)..? It doesn't miss I haven't tried driving it due to it gets hot! I used ttwo bottles of blue devil pour n go I put it directly in top radiator hose cold then started engine! It got hot within 20 min and had to turn it off! I started it back up at 170 ° and let it run but it got hot again in 10 min so I'm not sure if blue devil worked! I let it cool down then started it up and same thing got hot in 20 min! Light steam out of tail pipes still.. I'm stumped
 
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