[butaneblue]

Hey gang,

I recently posted I was having issues with my oil pressure light coming on when I was braking. I thought it may be a sensor issue that when the forward momentum was braked hard enough pushed the wires out of place enough to trip the oil pressure light. Since then, I've discovered it's not the braking itself it is when the engine is idling after it is properly warmed up. Does anyone have any idea of what could cause this so I can do more due diligence before shelling out a bunch of money for someone to tell me something I don't want to hear?

I could really use any input the car only has 73k miles on it

 

[MADDOG]

Did you change the sensor?

 

[butaneblue]

The sensor has not been changed in the 10k miles I've had it. From what I've heard it's fairly difficult to get to.

 

[Jim777]

It is but there is great info here with pictures. It's really just three alternator bolts, move it out of the way, then a 1 1/16" deep well socket to remove the sensor. There's a NIB sensor almost free in the buy/sell parts forum ;-)

 

[tomlabelle]

The obvious: Check the oil level. Make sure you've got the correct viscosity. Clean the sensor leads.

 

[bmcdaniel]

Just had to change my oil pressure switch in September. Oil actually leaked through the sensor and into the electrical connector on the back, cleaned that out with some carb cleaner and paper towels.

 

[Jim777]

I'd say double check the viscosity as well. As the fluid warms up, the pressure drops and maybe you were already near the point of pressure warning.

 

[tomlabelle]

If you are sure the guy who changed your oil used 5W/20, connect a line from the sender socket to an old fashioned mechanical oil pressure gauge. Could be a knuckle-skinner but you have the gauge or can cage one from a buddy, it a freebee - well, maybe a Band Aide.