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2006 Chrysler 300c SRT8 w/ a Hellcat Supercharger
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Disclaimer: I wrote this thread originally on LX and I thought you guys would enjoy it also. I am writing it in pieces because the process was involved. I do have the car running well at the time of writing this. I will update the thread here as I do on LX also. Thank you for reading!

Firstly, welcome to my build thread! To give some context on my car and this project, I will give some brief history. I have been doing some light wrench turning for about 5 years. About four years ago I purchased my 2006 300c SRT8 with about 107k on the odometer. Over the last four years this car has been amazing to me. Almost all of the work done to the car has not been required. I can only rememeber needing to replace the radiator, a few pieces in the front suspension, and the thermostat. I now have 138k on the odometer, and the engine still seems as healthy as the day I purchased the car. Over the last few years I have racked up quite a few minor modifications, but nothing major. I saw that MMX was offering their IHI 2.4L Supercharger for the 6.1L engines now which got me thinking. Since I live very close to the sweet sweet city of Detroit, I figured I would be able to source Hellcat parts pretty easily. Over the span of a few month after talking to a few big vendors and doing research on our great forum, I was able to start purchasing parts to do the build.

While I am starting this thread, I have already completed most of the more difficult tasks associated with doing this install. My goal was to keep the car drivable throughout this whole project. I wanted to save mounting the blower for last if possible. During the install I was able to take the 300c to Lapeer International Dragway to get some base times down. Out of four runs my best time was 12.9 quarter mile with a .5 second reaction time, and a 1.98 60ft. I was happy with my times considering I am a beginner. It definetely left me wanting more. So now, I can get to the good stuff. I will start with a list of mods on the car before the supercharger setup. Then I will go on to what I purchased. I will try to update this if I have to add anything.

Performance Mods Pre Build:
Diablosport Intune 2
Custom 3in Straight Pipe Catback
Gutted Midpipes
AEM Wideband o2
AEM 50-1000 Fuel Pump
180 Tstat
Tranzformer
AC System Delete
Derale Transcooler
Bwoody Adjustable Rear Control Arms w/ Delrin
Mevotech Front Adjustable Control Arms
Police Package Front Sway Bar
Pedders Adjustable Rear Sway Bar
Mevotech Extreme Duty Front Suspension Kit
H&R SRT Lowering Springs
275/45/20 Pierelli P Nero Rear Tires
Powerstop Z28 Break Pads
Stoptech Stainless Steel Brakelines
Minor Weight Reduction

Purchase List For 2.4L IHI Blower:
Supercharger to Head Adapter Plates - $466.00
Adapter Gaskets & Bolts - $122.00
Idler Pulleys & Custom Bracket by MMX - $350.00
Supercharger Coolant Pump - $155.00
Supercharger Coolant Tank and Bracket - Add $124.00
Supercharger Heat Exchanger - $440.00
SmoothBoost Electronic Bypass and Boost Control - $600.00
Hellcat Supercharger Bypass Valve 68170670AB - $135.00
2018 Hellcat IHI Supercharger (50 miles)- $2,300.00
Hellcat Fuel Rails - $320.00
FIC 1000cc Fuel Injectors - $725.00
Metco Supercharger Pulley Kit - $170.00
Procharger Crank Pin Kit - $100.00
6.1L Crank Bolt - $12.00
2018 Stock Hellcat Airbox - $60.00
(16x) Iridium 1 Step Colder Spark Plugs - $125.00
Valve Cover Gaskets - $25.00
Mopar Supercharger Complete Gasket Kit - $220.00
AEM Boost Gauge - $180.00
Gauge Pod - $25.00
Diablotoona Tune - $450.00
No Slip Dayco Belt Tensioner - $45.00
96.5in Serpentine Belt - $25.00
2.5in Exhaust Clamp (Band Type) - $10.00
(2x) Hose Barb Tee .75x.75x.50in - $4.50
(2x) 1/2in NPT to 3/4in Barb - $5.50
(2x) 1/4in NPT to 3/8in Barb - $4.00
1/4in NPT to 1/8in Barb - $4.00
3/8 x 3/8 PCV Valve (94 Supra) - $5.00
(2x) 3/8in Breather Filters - $20.00
Assorted Hose Clamps - $10.00
1 Gallon Of Zerex G06 Coolant - $20.00
(2x) MAP Sensor / Block Off plate
12v On/Off Relay Harness - Free
Heat Resistant Blue Loctite - Free
1ft 1.5in Angle Aluminum - Free
18 Gauge Wire - Free
.50in Heater Hose - Free
.75in Heater Hose - Free

Installation Walkthrough:

Now that all of this junk is sitting on the couch in my garage, I figure I should get started.

Spark Plugs:
I started this project by doing a compression test on all eight cylinders. Since you have to replace spark plugs anyways it gives you a good baseline. The HEMIs have two spark plug holes. First you have to disconnect and remove all of the coil packs. The coil packs are secured with a single 10mm bolt.



I just do one cylinder at a time leaving one spark plug in and attaching the compression tester fitting to the other that was removed. Go to the trunk and pop open the fuse box cover. You are going to want to pull fuse 6 (20 amp).



This is going to remove power from the fuel pump when the engine cranks over. Now get in the drivers seat and crank the engine over for 1 second. You should be able to get out and check the gauge on the compression tester.



Now simply repeate that process for all eight cylinders. Make sure when one cylinder is checked install both of the new colder spark plugs before moving to the next. After my tests I was able to see that all cylinders were between 185-195 PSI. The plugs pulled out of the engine were copper NGKs with a worn gap of .062 (30k miles). I believe the oil on the plug was caused by a broken intake manifold gasket.



The new colder iridium plugs were gapped to .030 and installed with antisieze. When complete make sure the fuel pump fuse is reinstalled. I have done this job a few times, it took about 4 hours to install and to double check the plug gap.

Crankshaft Pinning:
Now this step can be tricky depending on how stock your ride is. For me this process was a little different and much easier. The end goal, however, is ultimately the same thing. In short you need to fit a drill against the crank and be able to push it hard enough to drill with a guide. What I started with is removing my front bumper then putting the car on a set of ramps.



The coolant system will then be drained from the bottom of the radiator. Some have been able to do this without removing the radiator with a low profile right angle drill. I removed everything for easier access.

To drain the radiator you turn the valve on the bottom passenger side. I collected all of my coolant into clean jugs since it was relativly new.



While the system drains I started to remove the air intake, and the serpentine belt. Since there is still some coolant in the upper coolant hose, I remove the belt first to prevent it from getting slippery.



Now that the system is drained you can disconnect the upper and lower coolant hoses that are attached to the radiator.



With the hoses now movable the fan comes next. Disconnect the two fan connectors, and remove the two 10mm fan bolts from the back of the radiator support. The fan should be free.



I just pull the unit out from the top side. If you are planning on using a right angle drill and leaving in the radiator, you still have to remove the fan it will just be a tighter squeeze. I removed the two upper radiator mounts.




I do not have an AC Condenser installed, so I am able to just pull the radiator out from the front of the car. This made using a standard electric drill a breeze. This setup left me with a ton of extra space and the drilling only took about 15 minutes.

With everything gutted from the front end of the car, I removed the belt tensioner to install the NoSlip Dayco unit. I believe I used a 45ft.lbs for the new tensioner bolt.



Now with the crank. The old bolt came out very easy with my electric impact.



I slid the guide onto the holding bolt procharger supplied with the kit and torqued it down to 40ft.lbs.



I measured and taped my finish line to the drill bit at least 5 times. With the drill on the slowest setting I went to town. Make sure when you are drilling the crank to re oil your drill bit along with cleaning it off every 30 seconds. I just used normal engine oil. After 15 minutes of sweating in the 90 degree heat I removed the holding bolt and had a nice hole drilled.



The pin hammered in easy breezy.



I dripped some blue loctite on the NEW crank bolt. Make sure it is new one. Honestly, my torque wrench does not go to 250ft.lbs for the crank bolt. I do know however, my impact puts out a max of 250ft.lbs. I decided to just lay into it with the impact driver. In hindsight, I have been driving around with this pin in for a month and no issues. It may not be 100% proper but it holds.

 

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2006 Chrysler 300c SRT8 w/ a Hellcat Supercharger
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Now you can either move on with the next steps of the supercharger install, or you can put everything back togeather. It was the end of a long weekend for me. I needed my car for work in the morning so I started to reassemble the vehicle. This was a great time to install my Billet Tech water neck I have had sitting around. Reinstallation is pretty straight forward. It is basically just the same steps in reverse. You will have to rebleed your coolant system before you drive the car again.




At the time I am writting this, I am a few days away from mounting the blower. I will add updates to this in the next coming days. My goal for this thread is to condense all of the information I have gathered over these last few months. If you guys have any questions, comments, or recommendations let me know.

Part Two:
Good morning to you guys! I hope everyone is doing well. This last weekend was the dream cruise! I was not able to make it out, but I hope some of you guys did. I thought since monday has rolled around, I can continue where I have left off. Hopefully I will be In touch with the tuner today so I can get this thing finished. Next will be the secondary coolant tank.

Secondary Coolant Tank:

This next step is very simple. You need a 13mm socket. All you have to do is remove the three strut mounting nuts from the passenger side of the engine bay. Once you have the three nuts out, just slap the coolant tank bracket in.



Reinstall all three nuts. I just tighten the three by hand slowly. The torque spec for these is 20ft.lbs I believe. Be very careful. I have broken these studs before. Unless you have a spring compressor to remove the hat, they require you to buy an all new strut. Now it should look like this.



To install the tank itself there is two nuts that hold the tank to the bracket. You just want to snug them up nicely, not too tight. I forgot to take a zoomed in photo of the tank mounted. I have this other with a more zoomed out angle.



Once the tank was installed I checked to see if the hood would close properly. Sadly, it did not... I grabbed some black grease and applied some to the top of the secondary tank cap. When I closed the hood and lifted it back up, the tank cap left a nice black ring on the underside of the hood. I was able to mark the area on the underside of the hood and attach some painters tape like so.



This process was a little quicker for me because my hoodliner was already removed from the vehicle. If you still have yours, you will have to remove it either permanetely or just temorarily till you cut the hole. I very carefully used an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel to make the cuts in the hood. If you do this be extremely careful not to cut all the way through the hood. If you are not super careful, I would recommend a Dremel tool for this cut. You can see the hole I cut from this angle.



Now that I have measured the supercharger itself, I am not sure if the unit will even fit under the stock hood of the 300c. We shall see I guess. If it does not fit in the end I will either cut a big hole in the center, or run no hood till I find a fiberglass unit that can accomidate the supercharger.

Electric Water Pump:

Next, I moved on to mounting the electric water pump for the supercharger cooling system. There are many ways you can do this. The way that I did it was with a 2.5in exhaust band clamp, and a piece of 1.5in angle aluminum. The design is fairly simple. I drilled two holes in the aluminum that line up with the clamping bolts on the exhaust clamp. I drilled a single hole on the other side of the angle. This hole is to mount the whole pump assembly to the frame of the car. Next you take the two nuts off of the exhaust clamp. Place the aluminum onto the exhaust clamp making sure it lines up on the clamping bolts. Reattach the nuts, and slide the water pump into the exhaust clamp. Now you can tighten both of the clamping bolts. At this point you can attach this anywhere you want in the engine bay. I installed mine next to radiator mount. I believe this is where the windshield wiper fluid resevoir is. My car does not have that system installed, so the space is free to use. Here are pictures of the pump in the mount with the angle aluminum attached.






All of the odds and ends like bolts and nuts I pick up from my local pull a part yards. Around here usually that kind of stuff is free. I was able to pick up coolant tees that you will see later along with clamps for free. If you have any yards local to you, I would highly suggest checking them out. They have saved me at least $50 accross just this project. Ill end this post with some eye candy.



Intercooler:

Depending on the intercooler you pick the mounting setup may change. I was not very happy with the intercooler MMX supplied in the kit. It seemed narrow and very deep. It made it a little more challenging to get it mounted in the correct spot. My cooler also included a fan that mounted to the front of the cooler for a more remote mounting option. I decided to mount the unit in the center infront of the raditor. I may have decided to mount the unit elseware if the AC condenser was installed. I made a similar bracket to the one made for the coolant pump. Drill one hole out of a 6in piece of an aluminum angle. Then drill one hole that can be used to anchor the cooler in the front crash bar. I used a very long m8 socket head bolt from an Audi.



My cooler just happened to fit in between the bumper mounts perfectly.



I drilled one hole in each of the bumper mounts coming out of the raditor support bar. I am not sure if this way is 100% correct, however it worked great for me. The cooler was nice and secure.



There was also a rather large air gap of 4 inches between the intercooler and the original radiator. If the temps tend to be high later on, I may go back and install the extra fan.

 

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2006 Chrysler 300c SRT8 w/ a Hellcat Supercharger
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Valve Covers:

There are a few options for this part of the install. Basically, you need a crank case vent on your engine when it has a supercharger. That way when you have blow by under load, you do not start blowing engine seals. The PCV system originally goes into the intake manifold with the catch can. I believe you need a CCV, but it is benefitual to use both a PCV and a CCV in the setup. I would recommend using some sort of catch can in this setup.

The two ways you can do this are venting your original valve covers, or you can swap the Hellcat valve covers in place. The Hellcat valve covers include the PCV port along with a breather I believe. You can also get a CCV that installs into the oil fill cap on the Hellcat valve covers. The Hellcat valve covers do require you to flip all of your coil packs upsidedown. I do not know for sure, but the wiring for the coils packs will have to be moved up to match. Another note, if you vent your existing covers, you will have to find another way to fill the engine with oil since the 6.1L fill hole is in the intake manifold. I have a small fluid pump that I can either pump oil down the dipstick tube, or up a Fumoto oil drain valve in the bottom of the oil pan.

I decided to vent my existing valve cover set to save some money for now. If you left out your coil packs from the spark plug install that will quicken this process. If not, start by removing all of the coil packs from the engine completely. For the electrical connectors just make sure you pinch before you start pulling them out. They lock up if you pull out while you push in the button. The rest is just removing 2x 10mm bolts from each pack and pulling them from the holes. I apologize if the pictures do not match. I actually had to do this job twice. Once during the spark plug install (old leaking gaskets), second when I found out I have to vent the crankcase.



Now you can remove all of the little plastic retainers that hold the wires and half covers to the block. The next step needs a deep 8mm socket. I used one with a quarter inch drive along with a low profile swivel head socket wrench. This wrench is a life saver for the hard to reach places. Start to loosen all of the 8mm bolts going along the outisde edge of the valve covers. There are about three different lengths of bolts in the valve covers. The ones that hold the dipstick to the engine are longer, along with any that you attach the wire clips to. I got mine mixed up pretty easily. I would suggest leaving them in place if possible. The bolts have a rubber gromet that keeps them retained in the valve covers when you unscrew them.







When you get to the dipstick section the nuts are 10mm. Once the nuts that retain the tube are removed you can pull the tube up and over the studs. This will allow you to reach the last two 8mm bolts in the cover. Now pull up on the valve covers. If you need to you can use a plastic pry tool till they pop. The covers may be a little tricky to manouver around just take your time.





I was very happy with the way the valve train looked after 138k miles. I took the time to scuff and paint my valve covers with some black engine paint. The coil packs got painted a nice copper color also. I spent an hour or two cleaning the grease and grime that accumulated in the engine bay while I had the space.





Now for the fun part. There are many places you can choose to vent the valve covers. I picked right behind the last coil pack on the driver side valve cover, and infront of the first pack on the passenger side. You just want to pick a spot that will not be a convienant path for oil to escape your engine.

Start by picking a place. I drilled the holes in two different steps. Firstly with a 1/8 drill bit. Then I used the drill bit that came with the 1/4in NPT tap. After you have a nice clean hole you can run the tap in. Be extremely careful not to tap the hole crooked. You will only really have two or three threads here, so take good care of them. Once the two holes are tapped you can install the two 1/4in NPT to 90 degree 3/8in hose barb. I used some heat resistant loctite to make sure the fittings stayed in tight.



Now that the valve covers are vented you can start reinstallation. I read that you can reuse the rubber gaskets if the condition permits. I believe mine were leaking, so I just went with a new set.



Double check that nothing fell into the valve train before you reinstall your covers. Now, like before, you can just repeat the steps in reverse. Personally, I just snug up all the bolts equally and in opposite order to insure everything tightens evenly. Reinstall the coil packs, and be sure plug them back in.






I really enjoy the way the copper contrasts the black paint on the covers. Slowly I will be adding more copper to the theme.
 

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2006 Chrysler 300c SRT8 w/ a Hellcat Supercharger
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Good afternoon everybody. It has been a few weeks since I did the last update. Mainly I have been struggling with the tune on the car. It does run and drive though, so that is something.

I have waited a bit too long since the last update and lost my place. We can just continue with doing a refresh on the blower itself and installing the new pulley. The refreshing took me a few hours. You may not need to do this at all with your blower, however you do need to remove the snout to swap the pulley. When I recieved my blower off of a 2018 Hellcat, it was missing the bypass valve (Chyrlser 4 cylinder throttle body) and seal for the bypass. If you are missing any seals you have to purchase an entire gasket kit that includes every single gasket you would need to take the unit 100% apart. This is not ideal when the guy you purchased it from kept the gasket with the bypass. I purchased the Mopar Supercharger gasket kit from MMX ($120) along with a new set of Hellcat fuel rails ($350). Lastly, you will need a set of torx bits, 13mm socket, a rubber mallet, an adjustable wrench, a plastic pry tool, a metal pry tool, and a 15/16th hex barstock, or allen key. If you want to paint the supercharger lid, now is the time to do it.



To start with grab you Torx bit and remove all of the small bolts holding the lid in place. I believe the five in the center are a little longer so keep that in mind. Now take your plastic pry tool and gently work the lid up from the edge. Do not insert the pry tool too deep, it may tear the reusable rubber gasket. Your blower should now look like this. You can check the conditions of the rotors when you have the lid off.




If your bypass valve is installed you will need to remove the four bolts holding it in. Be gentle to not tear the gasket. There may not be any way around damaging if your blower was decently used. The seller told me this unit has only 50 miles. I am not sure whether or not this is true, but zero engine oil was found on the inside along with no marks on the rotors. Besides some shipping damage everything appeared to be new. I have read that it is relatively normal to have some slight wear on the edges of the rotors if the supercharger has been used a lot. I reused all the gaskets I still had. Again any missing gaskets will require a full gasket kit, at least at the time of writing this. It may be wise to purchase a kit anyways since you may need them down the line. Next you can unscrew the three bolts holding the bypass valve flange to the supercharger snout. You do not need to remove this. I did not the first time, but learned it was an extra 5 minutes or wrenching to remove the snout if you do not. It is quicker to unscrew the flange if you have electric tools. I apologize, I had a few too many at the time and did not remember to take a pic of that step.

Next is time for the snout. This will be six 13mm bolts, I believe they are all the same length. If you want to try and save the gasket be gentle pulling the snout off. There are two retaining pins along with the 8 or so pulley pins that will keep the snout on snug. To remove the snout I just tapped a few different spots rotating around the snout. No need to tap hard just evenly. DO NOT use a metal hammer or object the aluminum will easily deform. If you do not have a rubber mallet a piece of wood will work too.



Removing the pulley is the tricky part. You have to install a different pulley, there is no way around it. You do not have to use the Metco pulley, people often use griptech which work well. Any pulley that can be reversed and installed backwards will work. At this time I am not sure what the best size to use is. I am not sure how much boost this setup will make yet. To remove the pulley you need some type of metal pry tool and a 15/16in hex key.





A guy at my work made me this key out of a 1in piece of hex steel that he turned down on a lathe to 15/16th. I believe metco now sells a tool just like this for removing the pulley. Metco also sells a tool to hold the back snout pins, replacing the metal pry tool. Those tools have zero risk involved, if I saw them before I removed the pulley I would have purchased the pin holder tool. The instructions I saw said there is maybe a 10% chance of shearing a pulley pin if you are not careful to evenly distribute the force. Just dont use an ill fitting pry tool and you should be okay. I tried this with two people and it did not work at all. Then I tried it myself on a foam kneeling pad and it worked. I do not have a photo, but I put one foot on the snout holding my long flat head screw driver down against the ground. Then I put my very long adjustable wrench on the 15/16th key. I believe it was the standard lefty loosy config. Doing this I was able to pop the pulley loose without an issue.

Now you can follow the instructions that came with the pulley you selected. The Metco unit has a shaft that threads over the snout shaft. High heat loctite can be used on the threads of the snout. I used the same method of loosening, to tighten the new pulley shaft down. This with the high heat loctite worked well for me. This is what the new pulley will end up looking like.



This step is sort of optional. A boost gage has to be installed somewhere on the blower. You can choose from any of the map sensor slots that are referencing after boost air. I picked the lid MAP port. I was able to tap the port with a NPT tap without drilling the hole out any bigger. I am sure you could use adapters if you wanted to. I do not have any plans to sell the blower so I did not try to preserve the resale value.









Now you have three MAP ports left open on the supercharger. Again, I am sure you can use block off plates, or you can buy the sensors to fill the open holes. Since I already had the tap out, and the plugs are only $0.25, I decided to tap the snout and rear holes and just use a little brass plug. The remaining MAP sensor hole was the front intake runner. This port I drilled out to fit the diameter of the SRT4 2Bar MAP. The sensor will have to modified to fit. One mounting fin will have to be removed. I also drilled out the mounting hole to fit the larger bolt. I installed the MAP after the blower was installed.





Lastly, you will need to plug the coolant temperature sensor port. If you can find a temp sensor that uses the same size thread then you can just run your own sensor in that hole. I just got a plug with the same threads and plugged it. MAKE SURE YOU CHECK FOR SHAVINGS EVERYWHERE BEFORE ASSEMBLY.



There is a special order and tightness for all of the supercharger hardware when you are reinstalling. This is the chart I used for the lid.



The snout I used 20ft/lbs-30ft/lbs in a opposite back and forth pattern. For the bypass and flange I just tightened them snug by hand with loctite.

I am not sure how normal this will be when installing the blower. The metal coolant lines that run below the intake manifold on the 6.1L were rubbing the bottom of the blower where the little foot comes out on the bearing plate. I ground that foot down flush and didnt have an issue after that.



That should cover everything that involves supercharger modifications before installation.
 

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I will tell you if you did not rebuild the motor it will blow sooner with the boost...keep an eye on internal temps.
 

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2006 Chrysler 300c SRT8 w/ a Hellcat Supercharger
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I will tell you if you did not rebuild the motor it will blow sooner with the boost...keep an eye on internal temps.
What makes you say that? I have checked everything out on the motor, I believe it is fine. At 6psi I should be well within spec for the 6.1l. Guys have been running this amount of boost for years without issue.
 
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