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Hey guys so I have this 2006 Chrysler 300c srt8 it’s having the stalling issue everytime I come to a stop. & sometimes when I restart it it seems to go into a limp mode lightning light comes on esp comes on just looks like a Christmas tree until I restart it. also if I punch it it’s almost like it’s hitting a brick wall and volts jump like crazy but if cruising volts stay steady. & just to let everyone know it can’t be the fuel tank dealership said there’s no warranty or recall for it and I do not top the tank up Just go over half abit. Here’s what we changed out to try and fix the issue pcm/tcm new battery new crank sensor. What’s next !!?!?!? I need ur guys help this has been an issue for a couple months now :( tempted to get rid of it Also could it be the evap just messed up? Or possibly alternator ??? Thanks guy!
 

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Welcome to the forum. Does it stall all the time or mostly just after filling the fuel tank? Your stealer is full of crap. There is a lifetime warranty on the fuel tank. I recently had the one on my 06 SRT8 replaced......totally free of charge. Have you changed the Cam Sensor too? Have you checked the alternator output and all connections at the battery, the Front Control Module and the Alternator? The Evaporative Emissions System is very sensitive and can cause stalling if the Evap Purge Solenoid is stuck. The solenoid is easily checked with a good quality scanner though. If you haven't cleared any codes on it recently, you can also (with a good scanner) check to see Evap. Purge Emissions Readiness Monitor has been verified good. If it has, that's not the problem. The Evap. Readiness Monitor is usually the last of the 6 or 7 monitors to be verified functional and sometimes take quite a bit of driving to get it to show good. I am having that problem right now with my Hemi Jeep and I think my problem is the Vapor Leak Detection Pump (VLDP). I don't have any problems with stalling or anything else.....it just won't verify good and I've only gotten one code (P0451) one time. Hence, I'll be changing the VLDP soon. The Purge Solenoid is good.

Good luck and let us know what you find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Welcome to the forum. Does it stall all the time or mostly just after filling the fuel tank? Your stealer is full of crap. There is a lifetime warranty on the fuel tank. I recently had the one on my 06 SRT8 replaced......totally free of charge. Have you changed the Cam Sensor too? Have you checked the alternator output and all connections at the battery, the Front Control Module and the Alternator? The Evaporative Emissions System is very sensitive and can cause stalling if the Evap Purge Solenoid is stuck. The solenoid is easily checked with a good quality scanner though. If you haven't cleared any codes on it recently, you can also (with a good scanner) check to see Evap. Purge Emissions Readiness Monitor has been verified good. If it has, that's not the problem. The Evap. Readiness Monitor is usually the last of the 6 or 7 monitors to be verified functional and sometimes take quite a bit of driving to get it to show good. I am having that problem right now with my Hemi Jeep and I think my problem is the Vapor Leak Detection Pump (VLDP). I don't have any problems with stalling or anything else.....it just won't verify good and I've only gotten one code (P0451) one time. Hence, I'll be changing the VLDP soon. The Purge Solenoid is good.

Good luck and let us know what you find.
It’s definitely not the gas. It will stall no matter what. Everytime it comes to a stop. At this point I’m thinking it’s alternator or fuel pump issue because when I punch it it will cut power also and all the dash lights flash on and off volts are not very steady either and we have a cheap scanner atm need a better one to monitor :(. Oh and I had my cheap scanner trying to say something about replace FRONT CONTROL MODULE also engine codes p0700 and u0100. Thanks a lot for the help everything you said is what we have been planning to check next. First is alternator or maybe that front control module? Thanks !!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
He
Welcome to the forum. Does it stall all the time or mostly just after filling the fuel tank? Your stealer is full of crap. There is a lifetime warranty on the fuel tank. I recently had the one on my 06 SRT8 replaced......totally free of charge. Have you changed the Cam Sensor too? Have you checked the alternator output and all connections at the battery, the Front Control Module and the Alternator? The Evaporative Emissions System is very sensitive and can cause stalling if the Evap Purge Solenoid is stuck. The solenoid is easily checked with a good quality scanner though. If you haven't cleared any codes on it recently, you can also (with a good scanner) check to see Evap. Purge Emissions Readiness Monitor has been verified good. If it has, that's not the problem. The Evap. Readiness Monitor is usually the last of the 6 or 7 monitors to be verified functional and sometimes take quite a bit of driving to get it to show good. I am having that problem right now with my Hemi Jeep and I think my problem is the Vapor Leak Detection Pump (VLDP). I don't have any problems with stalling or anything else.....it just won't verify good and I've only gotten one code (P0451) one time. Hence, I'll be changing the VLDP soon. The Purge Solenoid is good.

Good luck and let us know what you find.
If it’s possible do you have Snapchat or Instagram so I can send you videos of what this car is doing
Welcome to the forum. Does it stall all the time or mostly just after filling the fuel tank? Your stealer is full of crap. There is a lifetime warranty on the fuel tank. I recently had the one on my 06 SRT8 replaced......totally free of charge. Have you changed the Cam Sensor too? Have you checked the alternator output and all connections at the battery, the Front Control Module and the Alternator? The Evaporative Emissions System is very sensitive and can cause stalling if the Evap Purge Solenoid is stuck. The solenoid is easily checked with a good quality scanner though. If you haven't cleared any codes on it recently, you can also (with a good scanner) check to see Evap. Purge Emissions Readiness Monitor has been verified good. If it has, that's not the problem. The Evap. Readiness Monitor is usually the last of the 6 or 7 monitors to be verified functional and sometimes take quite a bit of driving to get it to show good. I am having that problem right now with my Hemi Jeep and I think my problem is the Vapor Leak Detection Pump (VLDP). I don't have any problems with stalling or anything else.....it just won't verify good and I've only gotten one code (P0451) one time. Hence, I'll be changing the VLDP soon. The Purge Solenoid is good.

Good luck and let us know what you find.
oh and last night took the car for a drive cruising normal go to hit gas a tiny bit esp/e brake/abs light comes on? What the hell is going on with this car and why does everyone have this problem but a different little issue smh
 

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Sorry, I don't do any of that stuff......too complex for my simple mind. I can barely use a cell phone correctly.

Because you're getting other apparently unrelated codes, I'd first check your "new" battery with an advanced tester that will read everything concerning it......voltage, state of charge, CCA's available vs. rated, and overall battery health. Just because the battery is new, doesn't mean it's good. What type of battery and what is the CCA rating on it? There have also been problems with the Forward Control Module (FCM), but I believe most of those are age and corrosion related......lack of good connections. The alternator definitely should be checked along with the connections to it. A high quality battery/electrical system tester should do it.

Your P0700 is a generic transmission code indicating you "may" have other transmission issues. Most lower end scanners cannot read transmission codes other than P0700, so you'll need a better scanner to verify whether there is something going on with the transmission. The U0100 is a loss of communication with the PCM. This, to me, further indicates a poor, loose or corroded connection somewhere, or something causing a low voltage. I am sure you're aware that these computer controlled (your SRT has probably 23 different electronic modules) vehicles are extremely sensitive to voltages supplied to them. As far as battery CCA's go, I've found that if, at the FCM, the CCA's are below about 500, I'll start getting all kinds of strange codes. To correctly check the battery, you'll need to check it at the battery in the trunk. If there is a large drop between the battery and the FCM, you'll need to attempt to find out where the loss is coming from.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sorry, I don't do any of that stuff......too complex for my simple mind. I can barely use a cell phone correctly.

Because you're getting other apparently unrelated codes, I'd first check your "new" battery with an advanced tester that will read everything concerning it......voltage, state of charge, CCA's available vs. rated, and overall battery health. Just because the battery is new, doesn't mean it's good. What type of battery and what is the CCA rating on it? There have also been problems with the Forward Control Module (FCM), but I believe most of those are age and corrosion related......lack of good connections. The alternator definitely should be checked along with the connections to it. A high quality battery/electrical system tester should do it.

Your P0700 is a generic transmission code indicating you "may" have other transmission issues. Most lower end scanners cannot read transmission codes other than P0700, so you'll need a better scanner to verify whether there is something going on with the transmission. The U0100 is a loss of communication with the PCM. This, to me, further indicates a poor, loose or corroded connection somewhere, or something causing a low voltage. I am sure you're aware that these computer controlled (your SRT has probably 23 different electronic modules) vehicles are extremely sensitive to voltages supplied to them. As far as battery CCA's go, I've found that if, at the FCM, the CCA's are below about 500, I'll start getting all kinds of strange codes. To correctly check the battery, you'll need to check it at the battery in the trunk. If there is a large drop between the battery and the FCM, you'll need to attempt to find out where the loss is coming from.
Guess what we are thinking it is now !! The alternator!!! We unplugged the battery while the car was running guess what it died right out ! I did this to my other Chrysler and it would stay running and hold a charge
 

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Hi I have a 2006 Chrysler300c First it would stall when I filled the gas tank. Chrysler replaced the gas tank. Now it's worse. The car dies at stop lights, dies when I'm driving down the road. I've taken it to the dealer and they told me to replace the computer which didn't help. I've taken the car to some good mechanic's and they can't figure out what the problem is either. I also called Chrysler and they don't want to do anything to help. My e-mail is [email protected] and I'm going to start a class action lawsuit. If anyone that has a 2006 or 2007 having the same problem. Send me your e-mail and just say engine stalls while driving so I can give your e-mail to the lawyer to get hold of you. I think it would look better if the lawyer had a bunch of people to file with.
 
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