Chrysler 300C & SRT8 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys,

Sad owner here...
My beloved 2007 won’t start. I mean, at all.

Key to the hole, turn into AAC, no visible problem, when you try to start it, nothing.
No crank, no noise, no clicking, nothing.

Bought a new battery, did not help.
Replaced the battery inside the key, no luck.
Any ideas? Problem is that I can’t even drive it to the car mechanics shop :(
 

·
Registered
2014 CRD
Joined
·
1,600 Posts
If it won't turn over then 90+% chance it's the Exciter wire. Have a read here: Link

You need to clean up the terminal, if you're lucky with a jack you can get to it underneath and just wiggle the terminal on the wire and it will start.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks DGO, I am far away from lucky with this car :(
Bought it 2 months ago, right now the bottom of the bill is close to 3 grands (in HUF, since I'm from Hungary).
Can't really make it under the car, it parks in front of my house.
Where should I look for the cable?

Plan for today is to switch the relays in the fusebox (I'll switch the starter relay with the pedal position relay, just to confirm that it is not relay related...)
 

·
Registered
2014 CRD
Joined
·
1,600 Posts
The starter motor is at the bottom at the back of the engine on the right hand side (right hand side from the perspective of standing in front of the car looking towards the car - assuming yours in LHD, if that's right then the same side as the steering wheel).

It's not easy to reach if you can't lift the car - can you get access to a jack and axle stands? When you can look undeneath, follow the exhaust up towards the engine, through the gap in the undertray where the exhaust comes out - you should be able to see the starter wiring.

When I first had this issue I was able to nudge the exciter wire with a short piece of bamboo by reaching through the gap by the exhaust - then the car started straight up!

Get it somewhere you can get it properly up off the ground and clean/replace the terminal and add some copper grease to help reduce the chance of it happening again
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks, I'll ask I think my father to bring some mounting/lifting tools then.
Could this be caused by a heavy engine wash?
The service told me that they had to wash the engine interior because of the well known CRD oil leaking...
 

·
Registered
2014 CRD
Joined
·
1,600 Posts
Ah I don't expect that would help.

Be careful with oil leaks on th CRD. Usually those come from the oil cooler seals. The oil cooler is buried down in the middle of the engine Vee
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Yapp, I've learned that already in the hard way ...
Sorry, I meant, could the connection be caused by the wash?
I like the guy in the service centre, they've replaced all the sealings (besides a whole lot of other stuff!), I'm affraid they have not tighten the bolts correctly or something like this.
So if the middle oil seal replacement involves removing the starter, that could be a sign....
 

·
Registered
2014 CRD
Joined
·
1,600 Posts
1. Wash could cause the exciter problem
2. Oil cooler seals don't involve touching the starter
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
One more quick and weird question.
Why did it start last week with jump cable? Luck?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Oh, another question.
If it is a melted starter motor cable (I do not know it yet for sure, but I am suspicious), could somebody point me to the right part number?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Status update for those who are interested:

  • key is OK, check
  • ignition switch is OK, check
  • immobileser works, check
  • battery is brand new, check
  • fuses and relays at the trunk works, check
  • fuses and relays under the hood works, check
  • voltage goes out from the fusebox to the starter motor, check

The conclusion is that either the starter motor died or there is a cable problem from the fusebox to the starter motor.
I'll keep you updated, unfortunately, it seems we have to tow the car.
 

·
Registered
2014 CRD
Joined
·
1,600 Posts
Two questions:
1. I don't know how the brake lockout works on our cars but there must be a switch or something attached to the brake pedal so the car won't turn over unless you have your foot on the brake. Similarly double check you're in Park or again it won't start
2. Have you put a code reader on the car? If so what codes are you seeing. If not consider getting ALFAOBD
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Answer for the questions:
1. Break switch should also work, otherwise (I assmue, but who knows), electricty wont go out to the starter from the relay
2. Nope, not yet, with the triple key switch “hack” the EVIC shows no error, on sunday, the mechanic will check it a proper reader
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Answer for the questions:
1. Break switch should also work, otherwise (I assmue, but who knows), electricty wont go out to the starter from the relay
2. Nope, not yet, with the triple key switch “hack” the EVIC shows no error, on sunday, the mechanic will check it a proper reader
Answer for the questions:
1. Break switch should also work, otherwise (I assmue, but who knows), electricty wont go out to the starter from the relay
2. Nope, not yet, with the triple key switch “hack” the EVIC shows no error, on sunday, the mechanic will check it a proper reader
Answer for the questions:
1. Break switch should also work, otherwise (I assmue, but who knows), electricty wont go out to the starter from the relay
2. Nope, not yet, with the triple key switch “hack” the EVIC shows no error, on sunday, the mechanic will check it a proper reader
it Sounds like you either have a bad starter or could be a bad neutral safety switch. if you have a volt meter check the voltage at the starter.you also have a fuse in the trunk for the starting. System. I had blown this before and went through all the checks and finally realized that I had a blow
Answer for the questions:
1. Break switch should also work, otherwise (I assmue, but who knows), electricty wont go out to the starter from the relay
2. Nope, not yet, with the triple key switch “hack” the EVIC shows no error, on sunday, the mechanic will check it a proper reader
I am not to familiar with the diesel, but on the gas motor you have a run start fuse in the rear cavity #8 and a starter fuse in front cavity # 20. have you checked theses. I know you said you checked you fuses , but you may want to recheck. If not I would say your starter is bad
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Yes, all the fuses had been double/triple checked not only with a meter but also with a lamp, all good.
It must be a starter, today we've checked it with a mirror from the top of the engine, I've been told that the terminals look pretty rusty, also, they told me that the solenoid does not look promising on the starter motor.
Tomorrow we'll sort this out I hope, at least, it'll finally end up in a proper shop.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Thank you very much and for sure.
But, just to get the full picture, let me tell you my story, so far.

I bought the car last December, you know, a dream came true!
Since I'm not and expert, I was able to check only the obvious things, looks good, no rust, leather inside looks good. All in all, it was a clean car, so I bought it.
Seller told me that in higher speed, there could be some "pulling" or "vibration", that is due to the bad engine mount rubbers, easy and cheap to replace.

This February, I went to a shop, just to double check the car.
The shop owner is a ... well .. you know, a really good specialist, but also, it has a really really bad attitude, let's just say he is really grumpy.
It turned out, the problem is not the engine support...had to replace a lot of things :

  • all the breaks,
  • full landing gear repair,
  • all shock absorbers,
  • cardan shaft,
  • oil leakage fix,

Actually, the pulling comes from the transmission: wandler, as we call it in Hungary, erm, but you may know it as torque converter.

As you can tell, I've paid a lot for the above mentioned fixes, but, the car was finally in good mechanical condition, the transmission expert ordered the parts, everything looked really good.
After a week, the above mentioned problem came up...
So I've bought a new battery, because I've been told (judging by the symptoms and the cold winter here in Hungary) it needs a new battery, so be it.
It turned, it is not the battery, so I called the shop and the guy told me, it does not sounds like a mechanical problem, I should ask an electrician instead...

So...you see, I've got all the goodies, starting from a scammer seller all way to the not so supportive shop owner.
Now, a really good friend of mine give the number of his car mechanic, this guy is way more polite and most importantly, he is also really good.
I really hope he can fix this issue and after that, the transmission will be fixed and finally, the car is going to be in a way better internal shape.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Yes, all the fuses had been double/triple checked not only with a meter but also with a lamp, all good.
It must be a starter, today we've checked it with a mirror from the top of the engine, I've been told that the terminals look pretty rusty, also, they told me that the solenoid does not look promising on the starter motor.
Tomorrow we'll sort this out I hope, at least, it'll finally end up in a proper shop.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Hav you checked your neutral safety switch. If that is toast it won’t start. You can look on YouTube and it will show you how to bypas.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top