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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I try to use my remote start, the blinkers flash and nothing happens. When I get in the car, there's a message on the console screen saying "Remote Start Aborted — Hood Ajar", then I push the brake and the start button and it starts up fine. I checked the messages on the console screen after starting and there's nothing mentioning an error or issue with the hood. I opened/closed the hood a couple times, but of course, the issue remains. It has worked fine the past 2 winters and summers (I start it with the AC on to cool it off as I walk to it). It's been a few months since I tried using it.

I found a thread or two about this, but most threads were for cars with a mercury switch on the hood. I found one thread on here, I think, that said the switch failure in the latch was a frequent problem... oddly, can't find out much about it. I'm trying to figure out what the part number is for the switch so I can order one as I'm assuming that's what my issue is. I tried every combination of "latch, hood, sensor or switch" I could think of on napaonline.com, autozone.com and advance auto for my car since that's what I have around me and came up with nothing.

The thread also mentioned that you can bypass the switch by using a 1K ohm resistor as a jumper (vs an open or dead short), so I ordered some resistors to try that while I try and find the replacement switch.

This is the factory remote start in a 2012 300C 5.7L.

Any help would be appreciated. It's getting cold out and I'd like to get this sorted out.
 

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When I try to use my remote start, the blinkers flash and nothing happens. When I get in the car, there's a message on the console screen saying "Remote Start Aborted — Hood Ajar", then I push the brake and the start button and it starts up fine. I checked the messages on the console screen after starting and there's nothing mentioning an error or issue with the hood. I opened/closed the hood a couple times, but of course, the issue remains. It has worked fine the past 2 winters and summers (I start it with the AC on to cool it off as I walk to it). It's been a few months since I tried using it.

I found a thread or two about this, but most threads were for cars with a mercury switch on the hood. I found one thread on here, I think, that said the switch failure in the latch was a frequent problem... oddly, can't find out much about it. I'm trying to figure out what the part number is for the switch so I can order one as I'm assuming that's what my issue is. I tried every combination of "latch, hood, sensor or switch" I could think of on napaonline.com, autozone.com and advance auto for my car since that's what I have around me and came up with nothing.

The thread also mentioned that you can bypass the switch by using a 1K ohm resistor as a jumper (vs an open or dead short), so I ordered some resistors to try that while I try and find the replacement switch.

This is the factory remote start in a 2012 300C 5.7L.

Any help would be appreciated. It's getting cold out and I'd like to get this sorted out.
Hi olds97_lss,

Sorry to hear about this! I would recommend contacting your local dealership for more information. Let me know if you have any additional questions!

Andrea
Chrysler Social Care Specialist
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Well, the 1K Ohm resistor worked like a charm. I couldn't get the plastic cover/facia out that spans from fender to fender to take the latch out. Pretty sure it needs to be warm out before I attempt getting that out and replacing the latch. I was able to bend it up enough to get the connector off the sensor. There was enough slack in the wire to fiddle with it through the large opening in the plastic cover.



I put electrical tape to hold the resistor against the switch, then a few wraps around to keep it on there for a while. Then I ziptied it to the side of the sensor until it warms up out.

I used a 1k-ohm 1W 5% Metal-Oxide Film Resistor I got off ebay. Seems there isn't much current as it's still working fine this these small resistors the next day.
 

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Well, the 1K Ohm resistor worked like a charm. I couldn't get the plastic cover/facia out that spans from fender to fender to take the latch out. Pretty sure it needs to be warm out before I attempt getting that out and replacing the latch. I was able to bend it up enough to get the connector off the sensor. There was enough slack in the wire to fiddle with it through the large opening in the plastic cover.



I put electrical tape to hold the resistor against the switch, then a few wraps around to keep it on there for a while. Then I ziptied it to the side of the sensor until it warms up out.

I used a 1k-ohm 1W 5% Metal-Oxide Film Resistor I got off ebay. Seems there isn't much current as it's still working fine this these small resistors the next day.
Hey I’m having the same problem with my ‘13 300, I unplugged the sensor and stuck a paper clip in the male side of the connector to close the loop. No shot. What exactly did you do ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hey I’m having the same problem with my ‘13 300, I unplugged the sensor and stuck a paper clip in the male side of the connector to close the loop. No shot. What exactly did you do ?
I used a 1k ohm resistor. 0ohm (dead short, solid wire) won't work. Has been working fine since I put it in. I never took it out to replace the latch. I just wrapped the whole thing with electrical tape to cover it up and keep the resistor from falling out.
 

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I used a 1k ohm resistor. 0ohm (dead short, solid wire) won't work. Has been working fine since I put it in. I never took it out to replace the latch. I just wrapped the whole thing with electrical tape to cover it up and keep the resistor from falling out.
can you tell me exactly how you installed this. my son just purchased this vehicle and is haveing the same issue
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I disconnected the plug from switch on the hood latch, took a resistor like this:

Folded the ends so it was doubled and bent the legs down then poked them into the two holes in plug (assuming it's a spade type plug). I closed the hood and backed away from the car, then tested it. Once I knew it worked, I wrapped it up with electrical tape and I think I ziptied it to the chassis so the plug end wouldn't bang around.

I did it 5 years ago... so my memory may be a bit fuzzy. It was cold out and I did it all through the hole around the latch because I didn't want to break a bunch of plastic connectors trying to remove the cover to have better access.

The post from when I did it:

I never did revisit it and it's been that way since I did it 5 years ago.
 

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Can you post the close up photo of how you did it ? I got the same issue. I was planning to buy the whole new latch but I would like to try your idea first.
You can email me the photo [email protected]
I would really appreciate it
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Can you post the close up photo of how you did it ? I got the same issue. I was planning to buy the whole new latch but I would like to try your idea first.
You can email me the photo [email protected]
I would really appreciate it
Thanks
Sorry about that, changed image hosting. My camera wasn't as good 5 years ago, but it's pretty simple:


The plug is on the side of the hood latch. The rest is noted up above.
 
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