Chrysler 300C & SRT8 Forums banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
111 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I just got my 300 C along with the BA 6 sound with the Navigation system (no Uconnect). I have read as many posts as I can find and still can't find an exact answer as to hooking up a subwoofer to the existing BA 6 system.

I read the sticky that was posted by “rogue” and listed as “FAQ - Audio Upgrades”. Which was very informative but, and there is always one of those, I’m not sure how much of it applies to the BA 6 system.

I should mention that I have 4 amps, component speakers, two 6.5” 3-way, two 6.5” 2-way speakers and two 10” subwoofers that I am taking out of my “dead” car and will be installing much of that system in my new 300 C…

My first mod needed for the sound is the addition of a subwoofer.

To the questions:
1. Does the Kicker Sub plug into the BA 6 stock wire loom?
2 a. If it does where are the wires for this and what are the color codes?
2 b. Do you know what type of connector it uses?
3. If the Kicker sub does not hook up to the BA 6, is there still "live" wires in the BA 6 loom that carry the signal for the subwoofer?
4 a. If the BA 6 does not have a "live" signal for the subwoofer what is the best source to cut into the current system to hook up an amplified subwoofer to the BA 6 setup?
4 b. Do you know the color code of the wires needed and where they are?


My second mod is to add two more mosfet amplifiers and upgrade the speakers.

From all that I have read on this forum and from checking up on the Internet, I ended up with some other questions.

So my first question is, has anyone done a similar write-up for the BA 6?

If not, where is the best place to cut into the signal from the head unit? Before the amp or after? Keeping in mind I have the Navigation system and want to retain the voice for the Navigation system.

I read about the JL Clean Sweep and it sound like the best bet for a clean signal if you tap into the signal wires after the amp. Or should I just use a lineout converter?

Where can I get the color codes for the BA 6 system?

Any other wisdom you would like to impart before I tear the car apart would be greatly appreciated.

I probably won’t start this project for a couple of weeks just so I can do more research (and I want to just drive the car) but I thought this would be the best place to start.

Thanx, and I look forward to joining in on this well-informed forum,
Gary
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
214 Posts
If I were in your shoes, I would just wait a few weeks for PAC and Peripheral (see thread link) to release their integration products. Specifically, based on your description, I would use the "Add an Amp" product. It is effectively a "T" harness meaning that it keeps the connection between your factory deck and harness but out the side (like a T intersection) gives you an rca output. This rca output, should give you a high quality full range signal for your aftermarket amps. No messing around with LC6's and Cleansweeps after the factory amp as I and others have done. This harness lets the factory amp believe (and it is) still connected to the factory deck and will therefore continue to pass your nav voice out the factory speakers. I would leave the dash speakers connected to the factory amp for nav voice and upgrade the front door and rear deck speakers and connect them to your aftermarket amps.

http://www.300cforums.com/forums/ca...eel-controls-vss-wire-etc-threads-merged.html

It could be even better upon testing...
What we have found on these cars is if the preamp signal between the factory deck and factory amp is cut, the uconnect voice stops playing. This is why I suggested that you keep the dash speakers connected to the factory amp for nav voice. What I'm wondering is if you use the Add An Amp product and therefore the factory amp still thinks it's connected to the factory deck, whether that nav voice will be in the preamp signal going to your aftermarket amp (using the rca out from the add an amp product)? This would be a hidden benefit as you could then stop using all of the factory speakers as your nav voice would come out the aftermarket speakers. We won't know until someone tries these products. Wish I had a way to test this stuff.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I made a post entitled "Infinity BassLink II" that details my installation of the unit on a BA 6 system. I'm not good with forums usually, but here's the link:

http://www.300cforums.com/forums/car-audio-alarms-navigation/14715-infinity-basslink-ii.html?posted=1#post168726

I can answer a couple of your questions:

"1. Does the Kicker Sub plug into the BA 6 stock wire loom?"

Probably. The connector is there for the sub, but in my testing, I couldn't get a signal from the wires. This is most likely due to the fact that the Kicker system uses a different amp in front, even though the Sub is powered. I'm guessing that to upgrade to the kicker system would require an amp change in front. I'm not absolutely sure though.

2 a. If it does where are the wires for this and what are the color codes?

The wiring color code chart that's listed in the faq is exactly the same for the BA 6 system. I used the information to wire my sub.

4 a. If the BA 6 does not have a "live" signal for the subwoofer what is the best source to cut into the current system to hook up an amplified subwoofer to the BA 6 setup?

With my powered sub, I used "Speaker level inputs", and I tapped into the rear deck speakers with blue splices.

4 b. Do you know the color code of the wires needed and where they are?

Again, the chart listed in the FAQ is the same for our BA 6 system.

Now, I don't have the nav system, but from what I understand, the modifications that I've done wouldn't affect it. Basically, it seems like this to me:

The head unit should be thought of similarly to a CD player in a home stereo system. The amp in the system is like a receiver in a home stereo system. If you take the amp out of the loop in any way, you lose your nav voice. That's the way it seems to me, I might be wrong.

But with that said, by branching on to the rear speakers with splices, I haven't done any mod that couldn't be reversed easily, or affect the Nav voice should I have that option added.

Hope I helped a little bit!

-Tattler
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
111 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanx, I really appreciate the information. I have found that most of the local installers have no idea about what is available out there for this vehicle. They all have different ideas and none are similar to the ideas on this forum.

Thanx again,
Gary
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
The Kicker system upgrades soon to be released from Mopar will interface with the BA system...Plug and play for signal (rear 6 x 9) power and ground to factory fuse box in trunk and factory ground....very easy install....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
111 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
The stock BA 6 system is a very nice setup for a "stock" system. They did an excellent job in getting all the variables right. I am wondering how much of a change (hopefully, for the better) can be gained by upgrading to the new speakers. The current speakers sound very good balance with the current system dynamics.

Enquiring minds are wondering!

As to the Kicker bass setup, I would imagine it would be a good upgrade to the stock setup.

In my last car, a Grand Vitara that was rear ended and totaled by an uninsured “person”, I had installed a complete system that suited me and had a great sound. I had installed a new head unit, xm tuner, 3 mosfet amps, 8 speakers and two 12 inchers for bass. It was much louder than what the 300 C is and the bass really moved the little SUV.

Need to feel the sound again,
Gary
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top