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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I ripped out the under shelf due to the annoying rattle of the rear and that fixed the problem. It was actually a plastic bowl looking thing covering the stock subwoofer cutout. I was wondering is it possible to tap into the wires to add a subwoofer since the cut out is there... or am I going to have to replace the stock amp with another to power the subwoofer.

I figure I will need more power for the sub, so maybe it's possible to just add another amp for the subwoofer and leave the stock amp alone? I am just trying to find the easy way to install it with out having to rip much of the car apart.
 

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cupfart said:
I ripped out the under shelf due to the annoying rattle of the rear and that fixed the problem. It was actually a plastic bowl looking thing covering the stock subwoofer cutout. I was wondering is it possible to tap into the wires to add a subwoofer since the cut out is there... or am I going to have to replace the stock amp with another to power the subwoofer.

I figure I will need more power for the sub, so maybe it's possible to just add another amp for the subwoofer and leave the stock amp alone? I am just trying to find the easy way to install it with out having to rip much of the car apart.
Easily done. Just need a speaker lever converter, amp and sub and enclosure... Leaves the factory stuff alone, and adds insta real bass. If you want a box with sub check out my post on the for sale section... :sly:
 

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I would also recommend add an aftermarket amp here is my set up

Stock Head unit
JL Cleansweep
JL 300/4
JL 500/1
Kenwood X6900 6x9 in the deck and doors
Memphis 15-PRC3 3.5 in the dash
M10IB5-4 10" infinite-baffle Sub (marine speaker)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replies. So a speaker level coverter. Do I just tap into the speaker wire running to the trunk for the rear speakers? or am I going to need to run another speaker wire from the stock amp -> speaker level converter -> real amp -> sub ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
now i see. I use the rear speaker wires into this thing below



Then to an amp -> rear speakers and sub.

So I take it I need to find an amp that can power 2 6x9's and a sub. right?

I was also told by the dealer, but maybe they were full of it, that even though the battery is in the back, the cables should be run from the terminal in the front. Is this a bunch of bs?
 

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cupfart said:
now i see. I use the rear speaker wires into this thing below



Then to an amp -> rear speakers and sub.

So I take it I need to find an amp that can power 2 6x9's and a sub. right?

I was also told by the dealer, but maybe they were full of it, that even though the battery is in the back, the cables should be run from the terminal in the front. Is this a bunch of bs?
First the Dealer is full of BS !
Get your power from the back where the battery is. The remote power is available on fuse 18 in the trunk.
If you tap that line converter into the rear 6x9's, you won't get the full sub frequencies. They are crossed over from the factory amp to play 100 mhz and up.
You'll want to tap the converter in at the front door speakers. The factory has these playing from 120mhz and down, then set the xover on your sub amp to around 80 mhz.
Check the audio section in the forums and you'll see the full details of this add on sub project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks. I checked the audio faq. I was just hoping there was a way to tap in on the rear speakers so I wouldn't have to rip anything out of the car to run the wires. It never goes on the same when i remove parts and put them back :)
 
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