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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello!

I have a 2011 Chrysler 300c v8 that has about 110,600 miles on it and recently the car has been giving me trouble with starting. If I start the car with a cold start, it immediately starts up no problem and drives for me, but if I drive the car a good distance, get the temp to about a half. turn it off...The car struggles to even start. it will turn over fully most of the time but sounds like it is taking all its might to turn over. and sometimes it doesn't start at all. There's a crank and sounds but the engine just won't fully go. And most of the time there's this weird clunk under what sounds like the driver side or middle of the car when trying to start. It only happens when the car is warm, if I let it sit and cool. it starts right back up. I've noticed the car isn't working as it usually does will driving, I feel the car has no power as it used too, like it will almost jolt to get really going, my mom kept thinking i was taking my foot off the gas while driving. I've changed the starter, changed the fuel pump and now am ordering a cam shaft sensor.

I would love to get my 300 back on the road to enjoy her but i can't with the fear of her not starting. If anyone can help me i would appreciate it so much!
Thank you!
 

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2020 300s 5.7 Alloy Edition
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hello!

I have a 2011 Chrysler 300c v8 that has about 110,600 miles on it and recently the car has been giving me trouble with starting. If I start the car with a cold start, it immediately starts up no problem and drives for me, but if I drive the car a good distance, get the temp to about a half. turn it off...The car struggles to even start. it will turn over fully most of the time but sounds like it is taking all its might to turn over. and sometimes it doesn't start at all. There's a crank and sounds but the engine just won't fully go. And most of the time there's this weird clunk under what sounds like the driver side or middle of the car when trying to start. It only happens when the car is warm, if I let it sit and cool. it starts right back up. I've noticed the car isn't working as it usually does will driving, I feel the car has no power as it used too, like it will almost jolt to get really going, my mom kept thinking i was taking my foot off the gas while driving. I've changed the starter, changed the fuel pump and now am ordering a cam shaft sensor.

I would love to get my 300 back on the road to enjoy her but i can't with the fear of her not starting. If anyone can help me i would appreciate it so much!
Thank you!
Surely you tested the battery first? If not, keep firing the proverbial ‘parts cannon’. Like a drunken sailor, you will eventually run out of money and wonder what happened….
Sky Cloud Aircraft Aviation Tree
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Surely you tested the battery first? If not, keep firing the proverbial ‘parts cannon’. Like a drunken sailor, you will eventually run out of money and wonder what happened…. View attachment 178066
lol yup I have! the battery is basically brand new, I got it last year! and the reader is saying it working at full capacity lmao
 

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Cool-V '05 300c Blondie
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"...and now am ordering a cam shaft sensor. "

Add crank position sensor to the list... Hall-effect sensors can go bad in some strange ways, and don't always throw codes. At least that's been my experience. A dodge 5.2L drove me nuts with symptoms much like you're describing.

If you haven't already replaced them, the MAP, PCV, AIT & EGR have had a good life. Of course, this assumes you've cleaned the throttle body, changed & gapped the spark plugs, clean air filter, and don't see any codes with your scan tool. If you don't have a scan tool... can try the key dance.

edit to add: O2 sensors can also expire wo/codes, and should only be expected to run 60-80k before replacing. If you haven't already... put them on the list
 

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I recently learned a new piece of diagnostic's for the 300c !! Did you realize that if you turn the ignation key to the run (no start ) position , and then push and hold the music note and compass buttons your instrument panel between the tack and speedo wit go to a differnt program. it will show exactly what the engine temp and alternator out puts are ,as well as battery voltage . If you then start the engine you'll see just what the residual bat volt is for cranking , and then if the alternator is working correctly it will show that voltage . The reading should be between 13.6 and 14.4 volts for a good alternator. Battery voltage below 10.5 volts will not start the engine ! Depending on which year 300 you have the 2 inner lower buttons on the steering wheel when held down ,will route you to this diagnostic program .!

I've had my 06 300 C 5.7 for 16 years and just found this feature !!! go figure !!!
 

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hello!

I have a 2011 Chrysler 300c v8 that has about 110,600 miles on it and recently the car has been giving me trouble with starting. If I start the car with a cold start, it immediately starts up no problem and drives for me, but if I drive the car a good distance, get the temp to about a half. turn it off...The car struggles to even start. it will turn over fully most of the time but sounds like it is taking all its might to turn over. and sometimes it doesn't start at all. There's a crank and sounds but the engine just won't fully go. And most of the time there's this weird clunk under what sounds like the driver side or middle of the car when trying to start. It only happens when the car is warm, if I let it sit and cool. it starts right back up. I've noticed the car isn't working as it usually does will driving, I feel the car has no power as it used too, like it will almost jolt to get really going, my mom kept thinking i was taking my foot off the gas while driving. I've changed the starter, changed the fuel pump and now am ordering a cam shaft sensor.

I would love to get my 300 back on the road to enjoy her but i can't with the fear of her not starting. If anyone can help me i would appreciate it so much!
Thank you!
I'd suggest you check for DTCs with an advanced scantool capable of reading Chassis, Body, and Network codes, not just Powertrain. If you don't get any codes, I'd take it to a trusted mechanic and ask them to inspect your timing chain.
 

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I recently learned a new piece of diagnostic's for the 300c !! Did you realize that if you turn the ignation key to the run (no start ) position , and then push and hold the music note and compass buttons your instrument panel between the tack and speedo wit go to a differnt program. it will show exactly what the engine temp and alternator out puts are ,as well as battery voltage . If you then start the engine you'll see just what the residual bat volt is for cranking , and then if the alternator is working correctly it will show that voltage . The reading should be between 13.6 and 14.4 volts for a good alternator. Battery voltage below 10.5 volts will not start the engine ! Depending on which year 300 you have the 2 inner lower buttons on the steering wheel when held down ,will route you to this diagnostic program .!

I've had my 06 300 C 5.7 for 16 years and just found this feature !!! go figure !!!
You should have joined this forum earlier. The "EVIC/Egg" info is on here, along with the "get all your gauges to test full travel." :p
 

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What 'reader' is that? 'Full Capacity' of what? Where? Who? Hopefully you're not referring to a common voltmeter.......or are you? Oh boy.....
Exactly. Load test? Voltage test (which can tell you something/or nothing, depends whether under load/etc etc) ?

A corroded terminal can change characteristics when hot and be a problem.

Here hardly anyone discusses (gives) electrical advice. Because here, most people get surgical info from a Dr, physics advice from a scientist. But electrics? EVERYONE here gets it from those "blokes at the pub" because here they know more than people who work it/teach it. :cool: :cool: . So most just give up.

But hard to give advice when the only info is "it's fine".
 
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