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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All

Engine starts OK but cuts out after about 2-3 seconds. The manual says that I am using an incorrect key fob, but I am using the two that came with the car and has been OK for the last 3½ years. Sometimes it starts OK, but today I have been trying to start it for 1½ hours with no success. After about five tries the starter fails to run at all, is there a cutout timing after a number of false which will reset after a given delay??????

My garage/workshop have been trying to solve this for six weeks and I have already received bills for close on £2000 to solve it!!!!!!!

Any help appreciated.

Eric 9101
 

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Hi All

Engine starts OK but cuts out after about 2-3 seconds. The manual says that I am using an incorrect key fob, but I am using the two that came with the car and has been OK for the last 3½ years. Sometimes it starts OK, but today I have been trying to start it for 1½ hours with no success. After about five tries the starter fails to run at all, is there a cutout timing after a number of false which will reset after a given delay??????

My garage/workshop have been trying to solve this for six weeks and I have already received bills for close on £2000 to solve it!!!!!!!

Any help appreciated.

Eric 9101
Hi Eric,

As unlikely as this sounds please don't disregard it.
Your problem is likely to be one or more of the Tyre Pressure Monitor Transponders. They (or the connectors) go faulty and corrupt the communication system and cause the symptoms you describe.

You need to locate the front 2 transponders in both front wheel arches and unplug the electrical connectors to both modules and then try running without them. (Once you determine that this cures the problem, you can plug them back in one at a time if you choose to find out which is causing the problem. (Or you could just choose to run without them)

I will try and dig you a picture out showing the locations. The easiest way to get at them is to remove a plastic fixing for the wheel arch splash guard.

Its a fairly simply DIY job and there is no need to go to a mechanic/garage.


Jack
 

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See attached picture for TPMS transponder locations. They are the 2 modules on the very outside edges of the front bumper.
Each one is held by a single bolt.
Just remove one or more plastic fixings holding the wheel arch splash shield by prising the center fixing out and then removing the fixing complete in the area of the fixing bolt. Undo the bolt and prise the plastic back until the transponder can be dragged through between the bumper and the plastic cover.

Then unplug the plug from the module, place the plug in a polythene bag and tuck back behind the trim (Fix it with tape if need be to make it easier to retrieve the plug and lead later).

You could just do this on one side first and see if it fixes it, but if it doesnt, do the same at the other side of the car. (Dont plug either module back in though until you find out exactly which side is causing the problem).

The official way to get at them is to remove the front bumper, but it can be done by getting at them through the wheel arches as described above

Jack
 

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Jack, not that I have a problem (at the moment), but is it always the front modules which fail, rather than the single rear?
It does only appear to be the front modules that have caused a problem so far.
From what I've seen on the forum, I think it is a water ingress that causes the modules or connectors to fail rather than a specific component failure.

Corrosion of the connectors in the front appears to cause the problem sometimes as well.

I don't know if the rear TPMS transponder is on a different Can-bus node and cannot cause the problem or if it is just that the front modules are in "the line of fire" for water damage.

Having said all that if I had the problem and couldn't resolve it by disconnecting the front, I would go straight to the rear one just in case. Lol


Jack
 

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Further to the above.
I've just had a look at the drawings and the rear TPMS transponder can cause non-starting/immobilizer problems as the rear one is wired to the same comms line.

From the above it does seem to be a water ingress issue affecting the front trannsponders.

jack
 

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As you suggest, the front connectors could be more susceptible to water ingress. Looking at the bumper pic, they do appear to have been fitted there as an afterthought, although anywhere near the wheel arches is likely to be troublesome. Nevertheless, it does seem faintly ridiculous for a TPMS fault to immobilise the vehicle. I assume this ability to immobilise only occurs at start up and not once the engine is running?
 

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Looking at the bumper pic, they do appear to have been fitted there as an afterthought, although anywhere near the wheel arches is likely to be troublesome. Nevertheless, it does seem faintly ridiculous for a TPMS fault to immobilise the vehicle. I assume this ability to immobilise only occurs at start up and not once the engine is running?
If I ever had my bumper off I would have the connectors off, spray with WD40 and then seal both modules in a polythene bag. Only trouble with sealing things in bags is that you have to be certain water cant get in by any means at all or it ends up even worse and fills up and acts like a bucket, making it even worse.

It is ridiculous for the TPMS system to be wired to the same comms circuit as the immobilisor. A big mistake by Chrysler. The original poster has paid £2000 so far trying to fix the problem.


Jack
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hi Jack

Many thanks for reply. After posting message the Similar Threads box came up and on looking at the messages made the same suggestion. So I went to car and disconnected the near side one and it started immediately. So have now to kick the axxe of my service Co. They had actually sent my car to an authorised Chrysler dealership for attention as they were unable to solve it. Has this problem not been alerted to main dealers??????

Can I get a refund for parts changed that were not necessary??????

Will now wait a few days and see if fault is sorted.

Again Many thanks.

Eric
 

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Hi Jack

Many thanks for reply. After posting message the Similar Threads box came up and on looking at the messages made the same suggestion. So I went to car and disconnected the near side one and it started immediately. So have now to kick the axxe of my service Co. They had actually sent my car to an authorised Chrysler dealership for attention as they were unable to solve it. Has this problem not been alerted to main dealers??????

Can I get a refund for parts changed that were not necessary??????

Will now wait a few days and see if fault is sorted.

Again Many thanks.

Eric
Hi Eric,

Glad you got it started.
Many Chrysler dealers are not aware of the problem

Just a few weeks ago a Chrysler dealer told a member he needed to pay £1500 to change the Wireless Control Module/Imobilliser module to fix a similar problem. I suggested he disconnected the TPMS transponder first and it fixed the problem without the need to spend a penny.

I will be very surprised if you haven't fixed it.

I don't know how you progress a refund for the costs so far but I would chase it up it if I was in your position.
It does make it more difficult because it was not a Chrysler dealer though. It is a strange fault and difficult to diagnose.

Jack
 

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Hi Jack


Can I get a refund for parts changed that were not necessary??????

Will now wait a few days and see if fault is sorted.

Again Many thanks.

Eric
I wouldn't wait a few days I would be back knocking on their door ASAP.

Think I miss-read your post and car did eventually go to a Chrysler dealers via your independant garage.

You should have a valid claim for a refund for the charges made by the Chrysler dealers, but you would have to prove that the parts they fitted were not faulty and the symptoms were caused by the TPMS transponder and the parts they fitted did not cure the fault.

I dont think you could reasonably expect a refund of your independant garage charges who then referred you to Chrysler dealer.

Jack
 
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