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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
<Moved by staff. Even though there are no photos of the removal, the instructions are valuable for those who want to remove the silencer>

Figured that I should post how to remove the silencer on a new thread for everyone. Take a look!

First off, remember that Chrysler's factory system is indeed a cold air induction (CAI) kit. Chrysler's CAI just has a big silencer behind the bumper. Remember, just because the aftermarket sells a CAI kit doesn't mean you don't already have one, or that its significantly better than what you have. If anything the stock air box (without the silencer) gaurantees you will have a high flow CAI setup and also ensures you still get air from behind the bumper and not inside the engine bay.

Well, here we go:

1) Safely raise the front of the car 4" or so. I have a set of $30 heavy duty ramps from WalMart for this task.

2) Open the hood, remove the air filter from the car. You will see the top of the silencer now. Stick your hand in there to see how restrictive it is. You may wish to remove the lower air filter housing, it is held on by a bolt near the headlight (right under your nose) and a rubber knob that presses into the body. I don't believe it is necessary to remove the lower airbox, though.

3)From under the car, remove the two front bolts that hold plastic cover below the engine, or remove entirely if you wish.

4) Remove the bolts that hold the bottom of the bumper cover to the chassis, there are about 10 of them. This releases the black liner that is sandwiched between the bumper and the chassis.

5) From the driver's side wheel well, take a forked tool (used to remove door panels, I have an "OEM" brand tool from Autozone for this: $6) to remove the three push pins that hold the black liner to the bottom of the car. There is one near the painted fender and two more further down the wheel well in the same general vicinity. This will remove the top half of the black liner on the driver's side.

NOTE: The push pins are made of two parts: a pin and a base. Only remove the pin with that forked tool, with the pin removed, the ringed base will then pop out when you pull the black liner out.

6) Pull the black liner out from under the bumper and from under the driver's side wheel well.

7) The silencer is now in plain sight. There are two rubber knobs that press into the body and a hook on the top. Pull firmly and wiggle on the side with the rubber knobs to release.

8) Reach up the body of the silencer and you will feel a bolt at the top. You may not find it, but near that bolt is a hook in the silencer that is released by a quick yank down. Having a second person to push on the silencer from under the hood is a good idea.

9) The silencer will pop off easily, it happened so quick on mine I don't quite remember how it happened! Now reinstall the black liner, pressing it inside the bumper and lined up in the fender with the corresponding holes.

10) Reinstall all bolts on the bumper and the pushpins on the fender. Reattach the two bolts that hold on the lower engine cover.

11) Reinstall the air filter and close the airbox...

That's it, you're done! The difference is mild, but worth every penny, since its essentially free! You can install a K&N filter with this mod and you might net 2-5hp more, or the same increase in power an aftermarket CAI kit would.
 

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5point7 said:
II kings, I do like the Borla alot better with the silencer removed. It's still a very quiet system at idle and cruise and sounds like a V8 under WOT now. The 3.5 tips look great as well. If your still trying to keep the car classy - the Borla is a great setup. Mine is the Borla, not the Chrysler version.
Now get out there and tear that silencer apart!! You'll thank yourself!
That is the ticket, Borla for me, only loud when necessary. Silencer comes off tomorrow, I'll throw a DeLonghi in the garage if it's cold.
 

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What does WOT mean?

And when you say sucking you mean like on the old carbuated cars when you could here the air getting sucked in to the carb right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Beat me to it! ;)

And yes, it will suck like a 4bbl carb. The sound is intoxicating. This is why you buy a 300c and not an Acura TL. :D
 

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Pics of removed silencer

Got mine out today, the only different thing I did was to remove the bolt that holds the upper part of the silencer, then it came out without having to pull on the thing.Here are a few pics. ;)
 

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I thknk that's an airraid cold air box/filter.

About $169, not that I've been shopping.
 

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Just took mine out today. A things that will make it easy for you to do.

You may want to get a 10mm and a 7mm socket they will remove all the screws you need to remove. The 1 screw that holds the silenser in place uses a 10mm socket. I used two extensions to reach up and remove the screw. I also purchased a set of the drive up on ramps instead of a jack stand. Wal-Mart has one that is plastic and holds upto 8000 Lbs and is only $18.74
 
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Here is a before and after picture if you cut the two pieces off of the bottom of the silencer. There are two holes about 2.5" wide after you cut out the bottom. I don't know what to do with the two holes either. I want to use them to get the cold air from the grill inlet once I cut it out more. Any suggestions or ideas.
 

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Here are some pics of mine. Silencer off and the inlet to the airbox as if looking down from the bottom of the air box. Note the angled pop can plug to match the internal plastic flange as to not in any way hinder airflow. I used the thicker aluminum sides for three point fixation and finished off with a layer of silicone.
 

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I also have decided to cut & put part of the silencer back. To cover the two holes I went to Home Depot & in the Plumbing section I bought 3" PlumbQwik Plug,a 2x2 fitting & screw in cap. I then sealed the cap & going to wait to it dries to put it in. I'm going to put in a mesh grilled for better airflow.(Homemade ;) ). Here are some pics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Guys,

Why are you putting the silencer back in there? Even with the resonators removed (the plumbing caps are very clever, BTW...used those on my Mark VIII) that tube is a restriction.

I have the silencer right next to me, not only does it NOT provide a straight shot to the airbox, it isn't a constant diameter tube! That elbow you see is a restriction!

The airbox sits nice and tight to the body even with the silencer gone. Having the silencer put back in doesn't change anything except that the airbox gets less air! The area (and surface area that can ingest air) of the hole in the body is bigger than the neck in the silencer. :eek:
 

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How-to Pictures

Here the pictures show the steps Pro-5-Oh outlined...

2805 - Remove the air box bolt.

2801 - What it looks like once the air box is removed. I circled the "exhaust port" from the silencer.

2806 - In the wheel-well are the retaining push-pins. I popped my out with a pair of needle nose plyers to grab the pin.

2807 - Removing the bumper screws. I didn't remove all the screws holding up the front part of the under-sheild to the bumper.

2808 - Removing the retaining bolt. Notice the plastic "hump" that helps protect it from scrapes. I only removed the driver side one.

More...
 

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More pictures

2809 - Pull back (or remove) the under-sheild from the bumper and wheel-well.

2811 - There is a bolt way, way up the side of the silencer. I had to stack a couple extensions on to reach up there to unbolt it.

2812 - Jack up the car. The silencer is bigger than the gap between the bumper and the floor. You'll need an inch or two to get it out. You might want to get the jack out and try it. It's pretty easy once the jack is loosen. (If you're not going on a trip, dump the spare - damn that thing is heavy!! :)) There are special places where the jack needs to be positioned. Make sure you put blocks behind the rear wheels to keep the car from moving.

2813 - Just yanked down on the silencer and out it will pop.

2814 - Just a bit of fanagling and it's out.

More ....
 

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While you are there...

While you are under there and the under-shield is off, if you want to pop out the driver's side lower grill, here's how...

2817 - Remove the retaing clip. My finger is on it (oh, yeah. Something on the plastic pieces when removing the silencer can scratch the hell out of your hand - were some gloves for protection ;) ).

2818 - Once the clip is remove, pulling bit on the bottom so the bottom clip - which are molded to the bumper - disengage.

2821 - The clip and the plate removed.


Now put everything back in...

2820 - The "space" left after the silencer is gone. I'm not going to cut-up and put the top part of the silencer in there. The guides around the bumper guide cool air cross the radiator. And the fact that I yank the lower grill out will allow more air into the void. Good enough for now.

Later, I'm going to try and manufacture an "air guide" from the lower grille to the openning into the air box. Guess it's time to learn about plastics and possibly fiberglass. :)

Enjoy!
 

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Just realized that the "image numbers" aren't kept. All the images are in the order of the descriptions.

Sorry about that! :)
 
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