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5.7L Blown Engine! Need Advice

24K views 44 replies 14 participants last post by  linktronics 
#1 ·
I have a 2006 300C with about 67,000 miles on it in Miami Fl. The other day I went to start it after a brief stop and it sounded like metal broke loose inside and it conked out. I tried restarting a few times but it didn't sound good so I took it to a mechanic.

He says possibly a valve seat came loose inside but wouldn't know until he opened up the heads. He said if it could be fixed it would be a minimum of $2,000 and possibly more.
He also said a rebuilt Jasper engine would cost $7,700 installed.

I have put a lot of $ into this car, $10,000 stereo, rims etc., so I don't want to just let it go. But if it's not worth it I may have to.

What are my options at this point?

Should I:
Rebuild the engine?
Get a new rebuilt engine?
Order an upgraded engine?
Is the 6.1 SRT8 engine able to replace the 5.7?
Any suggestions on where to go in Miami, FL?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Ryan
 
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#4 ·
Ditto. The guys at AMP (Scott & Jon) are good honest guys. They shouldn't be too far from you. Give them a call and talk about options. If they could fix the head and get you back on the road for cheap, they would do it without forcing you to do a motor swap. Sometimes dropping a valve is pretty catastrophic, so if you do need a rebuilt motor, they could put you into a better setup than a stock replacement.

954-519-5800
ahmp426@gmail.com
 
#3 ·
if it were a Chevy Citation, I'd say scrap it...but this is different. don't look at it as engine failure...look at it as an opportunity. Put a nice stout motor in that bad boy, it'll only compliment the work you've done thus far...trust me :D
 
#5 ·
Thanks guys. I'll give AMP a call on Monday.

My car is sitting at a mechanic right now. They said there is no compression on cylinder #6. If I take the car out now it would be $113. If they pull the heads off and diagnose the damage it will be $500 if I decide to take it out after that. I told them to hold off until I decide what to do. Should I just take it out now and take it to AMP, or just have them go ahead and diagnose the damage?
 
#6 ·
#8 ·
IF it were just a valve seat I would pull the one head with bad valve. Then inspect the piston to see if it is damaged. If not damaged I would replace the head. IF the piston has a minor dimple it still might be ok I have seen worse. However if heavy denting and / or broken it is time for a new engine.
 
#10 ·
Ok, car was put on a flatbed yesterday and headed to AMP in Pompano Beach... Once he opens it up i'll know more about what we're lookin at... I'll update soon.
 
#13 ·
Here are pics of the bad head & cylinder.

Auto part Wheel Metal


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#15 ·
Valve stem broke. Why? Perhaps the seat came out jammed the valve head against the head/seat and piston causing the head to pop off. I still would consider the valve seat dropping out as basic cause. Now why did the seat come out. Improper machine fit between the shrunk/cold seat and head on installation. Defect from manufacturing would be my best guess.
 
#16 ·
The 5.7 have been known to drop valve seats. From what I've heard around heat seems to be the cause of failure. Being this time of the year doesn't surprise me if it is a valve seat. Just wondering do you have a 180 T- Stat?


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#18 ·
Yeah it looks like it dropped the valve seat. It doesn't look like it's worth it to even fix, as the engine would have to be pulled anyways, and the other 7 cylinders would still be at a risk.

I am looking into options of dropping in another 5.7 or maybe a 6.1 in there.
 
#19 ·
Where oh where did that valve seat go?! Bugger... Yep it looks like it dropped... You could pull the piston and hone the cylinder, new piston and rings... Redo or replace the head and carry on... Or now would be a great time for a stroker motor?

Btw... The tstat is not the root of that problem...

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#22 ·
In 05/06 it was a fairly common issue... Some do, some don't, I was lucky on stock heads and had no issues. I've even seen some of the reman heads drop them including a few aftermarket performance ones. Thermostat temps really don't seem to make any real difference as I have heard of them dropping on a range of stats as well. Obviously an overheat and cause some issues but moat of the ones I have heard of have just dropped on a normal drive on a normal day under normal conditions. These things happen, I'm sorry to say it... What is the option you are leaning towards for a fix?

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#23 ·
The general information that I've heard around from many performance, engine shops etc. for the 5.7 6.1 engines has been the head over heats and the seat no longer sits on their firm. Do a search on google of the 5.7 dropping a valve seat and you'll see a couple of people have made a quick stop somewhere along the way on a hot day and when they go back in the engine makes horrible sounds. With the engine sitting heat soaked the heads overheat and the seat loosens up.

Now what I've been told is that a 180- t-stat keeps the heads cooler, obviously since they're filled with coolant jackets. With my stock T-Stat on a 100+ day with the car sitting I've seen the coolant temp climb to 225 and above sometimes. Seems like the seats start giving away at 240 from what I've seen around on other forums.


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#24 ·
Once the thermostat is full open it is just an orifice and does not control temps, the coolant circulation in the radiator and the cooling fans control the temperatur of the engine. The thermostat just doesn't allow the engine temps to go below a specific temperature in the case of a 180 it won't go below 180 in summer driving, But if you had NO thermostat it would not go below 180 in summer driving either the fans and out side temps effect on the radiator determine the cooling. The fans are controlled by the computer for emissions.

Poor machine fit at the factory / sloppy work is the basic cause of this problem Ferrari does the same process and they don't have a lot of problems dropping the valve seats. My airplane is aircooled with the same type of valve seats and I can assure this aircraft engine gets really HOT in climb at full take off weight and the seats are still firmly seated in the heat.
 
#26 ·
Yes poor work from the factory is the root cause of the issue I agree with you on that. However it seems that cylinder head temps are influencing the seats. More seats have been dropped in warmer months versus cooler months. Over the years people have seen more engine failures with stock temps versus 180 or cooler temps.


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#27 ·
#28 ·
Very familiar with the threads there, I'm a long time member there also... If you read on that thread 90% of the vehicles did not overheat... It's just normal running and normal duty cycles... Nothing more required. It is a manufacturing defect that Chrysler refuses to admit to. Obviously it occurs after numerous running and heating cycles but no overheat is required to have the defect. I have a very good friend who sold his 05 after his dropped and he had it repaired... He had ran a 180 tstat since he purchased it at 6 months old with next to no miles on it. He is the reason I bought mine in 06 as I loved that car (but not the purplish color!)... Years of running with no issues and then it just dropped. It happens... Some think that a lower tstat helps the issue... Some... Like me don't buy that as I know first hand of failures in spite of a lower stat... Not saying it doesn't help as like you I can't prove it doesn't, but for $16 who cares the tstat is worth it for many other reasons anyway if this is another then why not.

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#29 ·
Here are a couple options I am looking at: Tell me what you guys think:

This first one has a warranty.. 3 yrs 100k miles...

refurbished 5.7 long block $4200.00 includes shipping

Misc hoses/ gaskets coolant/ $400.99

New intake manifold $280.00

Installation $1300.00

------------------------------------------------------------------------
$ 6180.00



Used 6.1 long block 38k miles $5300.00 No warranty but includes delivery

misc gaskets/coolant oil $230.00

mid pipes $510.00 shipped

modify mids to connect to 5.7 $200.00
cat back Or you can buy a srt
cat back up to you bud.

Installation and programming $1400.00
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
7640.00
 
#30 · (Edited)
Here are a couple options I am looking at: Tell me what you guys think:

This first one has a warranty.. 3 yrs 100k miles...

refurbished 5.7 long block $4200.00 includes shipping

Misc hoses/ gaskets coolant/ $400.99

New intake manifold $280.00

Installation $1300.00

------------------------------------------------------------------------
$ 6180.00 How long do you plan to keep the car? Lowest Risk Option



Used 6.1 long block 38k miles $5300.00 No warranty but includes delivery

misc gaskets/coolant oil $230.00

mid pipes $510.00 shipped

modify mids to connect to 5.7 $200.00
cat back Or you can buy a srt
cat back up to you bud.

Installation and programming $1400.00
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
7640.00
I assume this is rebuild long block and not a used one with heads. This has more risk. IT Might be ok if you have someone who really knows what they are doing. Will your 5.7 computer be able to work with the 6.1? Does this incoude injectors? Is the fuel pump the correct size. It might be a bag of worms.
 
#31 ·
6.1 swaps are fairly straightforward, motor needs to be a long block with injectors, intake manifold, exhaust manifolds and mids and pulleys. You will need someone with a Starscan who can flash your PCM/ECU or you will need a 6.1 PCM and the ignition module flashed to get passed the immobilizer. The adapters are $40 to adapt your 6.1 mids to 5.7 catback however with a 6.1 you will need to change the entire exhaust to at least the 6.1 catback to not restrict the car badly. I would also consider a new 6.1 TCM to back up the 6.1 motor and I would also STRONGLY recommend a new 3.06 diff as your 5.7 one will not last long with the added tq.

5.7 price seems high to me as a stroker can be had for similar numbers... Why the new intake manifold again? It's plastic and hard to damage... just have it flushed. The 6.1 seems about average pricing....
 
#32 ·
I Had a valve seat drop on my 5.7 about 2 months ago $2,600 bucks for a new piston, hone all cylinders, new rings, New seats for both heads. So not cheap
 
#36 ·
Well, we found a 2010 6.1 with 38,000 miles. Looks like I am going to go with that, as well as an upgraded cam by AMP. Not the cheapest option, but 460 HP sounds nice! :tongue:
 
#39 ·
Update: Scott didn't feel comfortable with the 6.1 with 38,000 miles we had originally found, so we backed out. He has since found one with only 16,000 miles from a 2010 Challenger. Apparently the guy is upgrading to a 492 Stroker!

Here is a pic of my beast ready to be shipped! :)
 

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#40 ·
You excited? I know I was extremely geeked when my engine was on the way :D


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#41 ·
Of course! I haven't had my car in 6 weeks!
 
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