It can actuate individual components in certain modules so it makes diagnoses alot faster.
Say for example you have a bad EGR valve...this tool can actuate it and you would be able to hear/feel it switch on and this would confirm it has power/opens.
Your fan could be running high speed and you think it could be the fan relay gone bad...with this tool you could switch on the low speed fan and if it works, you know the fan relay is fine and it's an overheating problem.
I've been switching my left beam light on then my right beam then my left fog and so on just for fun.
I am not the best with patience or technology - my advice take your time, bluetooth can take 30 / 60 secs to connect / check it is paired in bluetooth settings, it drove me mad for days but they talked me throught it very well.
My tpms shows individual pressures so I thought I had the premium and clicked disable - No luck, so I selected basic tpms and disabled and it worked.
It's ok Ed I use technology all the time.....lol... Oh and just to let you all know you don't need TPMS for cars from 2012 for the MOT, the fail criteria is if the TPMS shows a fault,so if you turn them off no fault light at all so not a fail,same with airbag light too,both sets of lights do not need to come on with ignition or start-up but if they come on and stay on then it's a fail. ABS light HAS to come on then go off the others don't
Well after almost 1 year of investigation I've finally found the resolve for U140E.
The CANBUS issue I initially reported in this post was in fact a totally separate issue.
The cause of U140E was a dead battery.
I'll explain both and give you the resolve.
It turns out that my CANBUS fault was a short to ground on the dynamic sensor power wire and it caused the CANBUS to go haywire. The wire was chaffed to chassis and is now fixed.
The only code left after the repair was U140E caused by the dead battery. Apparently the PCM did not like the voltage spike on battery recharge and now there's a mismatch in VIN from the ABS module. I'm told the only way to repair this is to reflash the system using WITECH pass thru with TECHAUORITY WEB SITE or you can use your own J2534 and buy a 1 day subscription from TECHAUORITY and reflash it yourself.
I'm opting for ACD to fix it but after after speaking to several techs there's only 2 ways to clear this code... way 1 is to drive the car and see if it resets itself and if it doesn't then way 2 is a reflash.
Pain in the backside but I hope this will help someone else and I apologise if my previous information mislead anyone.