[Kieserbn]

Hi All,

I have a 2008 300C reporting P0645 (AC Clutch Relay fault) and am looking for information about where the relay is located. I have a shop manual pdf that I bought from ebay - which is supposed to cover 2005-2008 LX chassis 300, C and Touring - but which shows a completely different TIPM that what is actually in my car. The part number of the unit in my car is P04692170AH. It looks like Pic 1 below (Which I found here in another discussion about starting problems)

The Mopar Canada site lists the correct part for the 2008 300C as P04692170AJ and it looks like Pic 2 - which matches what I see in the shop manuals (but not what is actually in my car)

Can anyone tell me the actual location of the AC Clutch Relay and associated fuses? According to my shop manual the wiring is as shown in Pic 3, so I am hopefully looking for Fuse 4, Fuse 22, AC Clutch Relay and any wiring diagram which would contradict what I have here (and might be correct).

The manual I have is 2005-2008 LX series 300 300C Touring - I have a feeling that what I have might have been written for the European "300 C Touring" which is a wagon - this may explain the discrepancies??

Thanks - while I am posting - does anyone have a source for downloadable pdf version of the correct manual for a north american 2008 300C ?

 

[DESIREE]

I don't know if this will help you, but in the 2005 model the A/C clutch relay is on Fuse ]#4-20A , along with the horn, in the Power Delivery Center (a.k.a. the fuse/relay box) under the hood front/right of the engine. It looks like a solid black box but the lid can be removed to expose the fuses and relays. Look at the underside of the lid for component locations.

Does your horn work?

PS - Your thumbnails are too blurry for me to make out the details, but they look much like the 2005 setup.

 

[Kieserbn]

Thanks Desiree for the reply!

I had an 05 previously and it did have the IPM that is detailed in my FSM. The weird thing really is that what is in my car just does not match either my manual or what Mopar says is the correct part for my model. I did a bit more reading and it seems like what I have is called the "Totally Integrated Power Module" vs the "Integrated power Module" which was in my 05, and is refered to in the FSM. Looks like at some point Chrysler replaced the IPM with the TIPM - but I have been unable to find any good information about this and the actual wiring diagram for it,.

I've attached pics of the actual unit in my car - you will see that it is totally different from what is in the manual, and there is nothing in my manual to support it, or tell me where the AC Clutch Relay is.

I have been looking and have discovered that the TIPM which replaced the IPM also has done away with the relays in favour of a High Side Driver. Now I really need the right manual! Fortunately I am a dab hand with a soldering iron and electronics is my thing so maybe there's hope for me to dig into the TIPM and diagnose/repair.

Thanks to fnkychkn and Tbird100636 for posting that information over on lx forums

So I still need to find a source of information for the correct TIPM and AC wiring diagrams so that I can find the clutch relay.... I have asked the "local" dealer for info, but no help yet... been trying to avoid the hour drive to my nearest dealer....

 

[speedeuphoria]

Looking for the exact same info and have the same TIPM. Any help with relay locations

 

[Kieserbn]

More info on TIPM and Clutch "Relay" for '08 300C

Hi there speedeuphoria,

I have not done anything since my post so today I took a few things apart to investigate. Here's what I can tell you. The AC clutch relay is connected via a Blue/Yellow and black pair of wires to two different connectors under the TIPM. I removed the connector at the relay (to do this slide the red tab sideways from the connector and it slides out easily). Then I first checked the clutch coil, got about 304 Ohms, which seems about right (about 4A) - definitely not an open circuit. Next i removed the negative battery wire, then the positive (in the trunk) and then removed the TIPM. To do this, remove the red battery wire, then remove the cover and snap off, remove the side shield (there are two locking tabs at the top which will require two screwdrivers to retract, and then it slides off easily. Now, by pushing the outside tab, lift the TIPM up - it is hinged at the back. Then repeat on the two locking tabs at the engine side of the TIPM. Now you can rotate the TIPM over to remove the connectors. I located the blue/yellow and black wires and checked for continuity between the connector on the TIPM and at the clutch. All good.

So now I took the TIPM apart to investigate. As I previously reported, the unit apparently uses a high side driver instead of a replaceable relay. So I was hoping to find something "easily" replaceable....

To take it apart, first remove all the relays and fuses. Then there are three melted plastic "rivet" posts on the top of the TIPM that will have to be removed (sorry - I dont know the proper name for these - basically these are plastic posts from the bottom piece that stick through the holes on the top cover and are "melted" to form "buttons" that hold the top and bottom together - as far as I can tell these are redundant - mostly for tamper prevention methinks). One is located under one of the large relays. I found that a small slot screwdriver sufficed to deform them enough and break them off the posts underneath. At this point, using the same flat screwdriver, one can pry the top cover out from the bottom cover - I found it easier to start at the battery connection end. You can tell when prying off the top cover if you have successfully freed the plastic rivet posts because they will pull out as you raise the top cover. Anyways, once the top is pried off you will see that there is a printed circuit board sandwiched between the top and bottom covers that has the connections pins and sleeves for the relays/fuses/bottom connectors protruding from the top and bottom of the board.

What I was hoping to see at this point was some discrete transistors that i could test/replace - but this an entirely SMD board (surface mount devices) which means that except for the serious electronic hobbyist - this will be a non-repairable board. Working with SMD's requires some special tools and skills. I have done some in the past with about a 50% success ratio - depends on the board and components.

the component that has failed is a small black square "chip" located near the connector pins for the connector that has the blue/yellow wire going to it. The component is a "Dual Intelligent High-current Self-protected Silicon High-side Switch" which is basically a pair of transistor switches controlled by a small microprocessor. This is an obsolete component but still available from Verical or Newark for about 10 bucks. If you are going to try replacing - buy two.

I am not sure if I will try to replace it or just pull a unit from the wreckers - probably the later, but maybe I will buy one of these and see if I can replace it then resell the used one. As a side note, the auto start is also not working on my car and since this chip is a "dual" switch, I wonder what the other side is used for....maybe that is why my remote start isn't working.

There is a homemade solution, which is to install a devie in the cabin to replace the car's electronic when running the AC. I am considering that as a simple alternative. The idea is to use a simple temp sensor like an LM335 with a simple comparator circuit and slide pot for setting the desired temp. One could even use a simple mechanical thermostat. These would be powered from the run power only to prevent inadvertently draining the battery and if we wanted to get fancy could be activated by sensing the AC ON by monitoring the AC lamp. I will post again with the details if I go this route.

 

[speedeuphoria]

Thanks!!

I dont have any codes that I know of, I will rescan with a better scanner.

I will pull my TIPM and inspect that chip. I will likely get one from a junk yard as I have only ever soldered smd leds, but I will ask a couple trades guys I know 1st.

My car doesnt have remote start so I cant confirm your suspicions there, all I know is any DTC will prevent the remote start on most cars.

 

[Janet Barnes]

There’s a split in production date
06/04 is an 05 but
The split is up to June 27 04
which is still a 05 300 and
June 28 04 is also an 05 300 but the wiring is different and any more pls feel free to ask

 

[Crankin1]

following! having the same issues! can't find any diagrams showing the location of fuses and relays