[fastmax1]

I have the Boston Accoustics system in my SRT. I want to upgrade the sound system but retain the stock head unit. I am really dont care if I loose the U-connect or navigation audio. Have any suggestions?

 

[GeoHazard]

Just a suggestion: On previous cars, I have added an Infinity BassLink 10" sub with it's built-in amp in the trunk. It's small, and adds tons of low end boost. The unit has an input where you simply tap into a speaker line, plus you need a cable for power. I have learned that while it is nice to upgrade an entire system, I prefer the look of the factory head unit, and I hate having to go back in the doors to remove the newer speakers and replace with the old when I sell the car, especially if I have modified the speaker openings.

With only the addition of the BassLink to the stock systems, I can annoy people at stoplights (only in retaliation, of course) with Slayer or Rachmaninoff....

And it's easy to remove when it's time to sell.

 

[djjasond]

Many resources on the site for this....

Audio FAQ
http://www.300cforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5298

How to access the factory amp
http://www.300cforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9359

How to remove the door trim http://www.300cforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9783

How to access the rear speakers
http://www.300cforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9368

 

[ICEMAN247]

Look At My Entire For Subwoofer Add In Car Audio Section Has Pictures Of How I Add A Fibergass Woofer Box In The Trunck To The Factor Boston System, You Have To Diconnect The Factory 8" And Remove It From The Rear Deck

 

[el_duderino]

My suggestion would be to get an amp that will take a balanced input and run the OEM HU right into it.

Then you can upgrade pretty readily.

Pick a budget that you're comfortable with, pick the CD's that you listen to most, and pick what you're willing to give up in the trunk, and I can give you a pretty fopcused recommendation.

Don't buy a Basslink unless you're on a *tight* budget. I found the one I heard very disappointing.

 

[IGOTTASRT8]

I have the Boston Accoustics system in my SRT. I want to upgrade the sound system but retain the stock head unit. I am really dont care if I loose the U-connect or navigation audio. Have any suggestions?

I upgraded everything in my car except for the stock head unit.

Audiocontrol LC6 (to help integrate uconnect and nav)
JL Audio Cleansweep (gives better eq to stock deck)
MB Quart QSD Seperates in front and rear (6.5 mids and tweets)
Two JL Audio 10W6V2 10 inch subwoofers in the trunk
JL Audio 300/4 amp to run the seperates
JL Audio 500/1 amp to run the woofers
Tsunami 5 farad capacitor to keep woofers from draining the battery
2 fans to keep the amps from overheating

Total cost was +/- $5000.00

 

[el_duderino]

My suggestion is to unplug the factory amp first off. Then you lose nav and uconnect but it's all easier from there.

Connect an amp that will take a balanced input OR use a Soundgate LOC4.2 to convert the balanced signal to single-ended.

Use a tweet up front that plays low - Dynaudio or Morel if you can afford it, DLS ditto but cheaper, a/d/s/ 2-series as a fallback.

In the back either get a sub box or use some 6x9 woofs such as the MB Quart RCE269 woofers if you can find any (don't use the tweeters - sell them on ebay). Give up on any other infinite-baffle woofer.

 

[GeoHazard]

Don't buy a Basslink unless you're on a *tight* budget. I found the one I heard very disappointing.

If you really are into high-end audio, the BassLink isn't your choice. But I think my current BassLink, which has a 250 watt enclosed amp and a 10" sub and some sort of passive reflector, actually sounds pretty darn good, and all fits in a neat, concise space, and is easily removable if I need the space temporarily in my trunk. Others who have heard the sound think it's pretty good, too. There are some lower level BassLinks available with less power and smaller drivers.

By turning up the BassLink, I can turn down the bass on the remainder of the system, so as to drive it more cleanly in the higher frequencies which the stock speakers are better able to handle. Again, just an option that I feel is a great bang-for-the-buck.

 

[jconnolly1119]

The newer Basslink is alot better than the old design. It is also important to note that placement of the Basslink II is crucial to the sound improvement. Corner of trunk is way better than behind the backseat. If you have a BA6, adding a sub is pretty easy to do. If you chose one that is designed for infinate baffle design, you can simply install it between the rear 6x9's (which is the stock location for the BA7 by the way) and forgo the sub-box altogether. Just make sure the amp you use to power the sub has a remote bass control so you can make adjustments from the front seat. This route will probably give you a bit more sonic boom since the rating of the amp and sub is all up to you. The 250watt rating on the BasslinkII is not rms. It is peak. You are actually only getting about 100watts out of it, which is why the placement is critical if you chose to go this route. Good luck!

 

[HEMI4ME?]

You can use the factory deck with any kind of speaker line level converter to change the signal from the facory speaker to RCA. Don't skimp here, the cheaper you buy the worse the sound Q will be.

If I can make one suggestion if you like the current sound, but just want more bass do a simple eclosure in the trunk remove the factory sub (to all bass into the cabin) then get a small amp like JL 250.1 or equivalent.

If you want to go higher end, and get this car to sound good and really rock you will have to lose the deck and line level crap - but remember, this will cost you $2500-4500 easily if you use good equipment.

Here is a set up I used, and the sound is really, really good (not to toot my own horn, I just think my guys did a nice job on this).

1. Kenwood DVD 6017 deck with trim part installed $1380
2. JL Audio 450.4 (150x2 and 75x2) and 500.1 (500x1) amps $900
3. JL Audio 3 way 653XR series set (6.5", 4", tweet) in front $330 (ebay)
4. JL VR series 6.5" for rear fill installed myself $120
5. JL 8W7 sub in rear deck with box $550
6. Wiring and fuses and labor (re-run all speaker wire) $400
7. JL Bass knob with self install $40
8. Rear camera to play on the deck $200
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TOTAL $3920

If you use your factory deck and line level, you won't have the $1380 on there, or the $400 for wiring and whatnot, but you will have to buy other equipment to make the line level conversion and have to pay to have that installed...

Whatever you do don't change anything unless you are a music lover, you are not happy with the factory sound, and you are sure you want to dump the cash into the project. I found once you do one thing it leads to another and another...

 

[fastmax1]

Thanks for the help

Lots of good advice... I am going to try the following:

JL Audio Clean Sweep
Two pair JL 6.5" seperates
Single 12" JL sub w/custom box
JL Audio 300/4 & 250/1 amps

The stock system is not all that bad, but is dose start to show some weaknesses at higher volumes... hope this system upgrade works!

 

[el_duderino]

Forgot your JL boxer briefs : )

I don't think you need a clean sweep. Your installer might, but you don't.