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Discussion Starter #1
Can someone please tell me if it's possible to add a sub and amp to the existing sound system? I would like to get the JL Audio 12 w7 and JL 1000/1 amp but am afraid that I will lose the steering wheel controls.

Secondly, is this a bad idea because the sub will over power the existing speakers or is there a way to control the balance of the sub?

I really appreciate the info from you audio experts out there.
 

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I have 3 JL subs and 1 JL amp connected to the stock system, you can still use the wheel controls, since the battery is in the trunk, no wiring needs to go through the front, you will also need to get a good a.v. adapter so you can run it of the speakers in the back, it sounds good if you turn the bass down from the stereo and adjust the amp to your liking, you also need to dynamat the trunk cus it rattles like an earthquake
I plan to eventually replace the stock but for now I make some noise coming down the street.
 

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Hey Speediddy,
Thanks for the input but what do I need to get from an audio store or radio shack for the RCA inputs on the amp and secondly where is the signal coming from for the RCA's???
 

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turbohips said:
Hey Speediddy,
Thanks for the input but what do I need to get from an audio store or radio shack for the RCA inputs on the amp and secondly where is the signal coming from for the RCA's???
Speediddy, I would like to know also. I read in another thread that on a stock sound system there is a connector for a sub under the paneling...any idea if this is true ( I havent looked yet)? I have a 1000watt amp and a 12"sub just begging for a ride in the C.
 

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There's a thread some where here with the details, but you use a high level to RCA converter to get your signal from the rear speakers. Power from the battery and remote power from the fuse box in the trunk. Much easier than an install from the traditional engine compartment battery. I had to use a 1.5 farad Power Capacitor to stop my lighting system from dimming with my high current PPi Amp. Search the forum for details as some good info has been discussed on this subject.
 

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Michael said:
There's a thread some where here with the details, but you use a high level to RCA converter to get your signal from the rear speakers. Power from the battery and remote power from the fuse box in the trunk. Much easier than an install from the traditional engine compartment battery. I had to use a 1.5 farad Power Capacitor to stop my lighting system from dimming with my high current PPi Amp. Search the forum for details as some good info has been discussed on this subject.
Thanks Michael, Ill keep looking.
 

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Ok guys I removed the rattling cardboard. Found what I believe is the sub woofer connector just dangling there. I have a few questions. What is the round black plastic covered thing in the middle of the two rear speakers? Is it a sub of some kind? Can or should I disconnect it before I hook up the amp for the sub. Next I count 3 speakers front, 2 in the doors. 2 rear and the 1 black thing. Thats 8 what gives? :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Two300Cs,
I got the full sound package and that black plastic thing I think your talking about is the location for the stock sub. I haven't checked that area out yet but I think that's what it is for. Now I'm thinking that I have to lose the use of the stock sub for my after market one. Let me know if you find anything out. I would greatly appreciate it.
Good Luck!
 

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turbohips,
I'll find out from my audio guy what kind of adapter you need.
You get the signal from the rear speakers, also you will need a bigger fuse if you plan on using a strong amp and sub. You dont need to disconnect the the stock sub to use the afte rmarket one ( I would still turn the bass down from the radio that way your stock speakers never blow out), I like my music loud, and I learned no matter how good the stock system is, you will eventually blow one of the speakers out. you can also buy an epiccenter (I think thats what its called) this allows you to control the bass level to the aftermarket sub and will not change anything on your stock, so you can turn the bass on the sub up or down,
Ill post or p.m. you with a list of everything that is needed as soon as I find out.
 

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You can just use the audio controls on the amp to reach the desired medium of sound in the car, just play with the crossover and the gain till you like what you hear.
 

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speediddy said:
turbohips,
I'll find out from my audio guy what kind of adapter you need.
You get the signal from the rear speakers, also you will need a bigger fuse if you plan on using a strong amp and sub. You dont need to disconnect the the stock sub to use the afte rmarket one ( I would still turn the bass down from the radio that way your stock speakers never blow out), I like my music loud, and I learned no matter how good the stock system is, you will eventually blow one of the speakers out. you can also buy an epiccenter (I think thats what its called) this allows you to control the bass level to the aftermarket sub and will not change anything on your stock, so you can turn the bass on the sub up or down,
Ill post or p.m. you with a list of everything that is needed as soon as I find out.
If I were you I would take the stock sub out and then cut a hole in the underlining so the bass can pass to the cabin (you will still have the "grill" inside on the decklid). That stock 8" is a POS and the port will serve a much better purpose.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
speediddy said:
turbohips,
I'll find out from my audio guy what kind of adapter you need.
You get the signal from the rear speakers, also you will need a bigger fuse if you plan on using a strong amp and sub. You dont need to disconnect the the stock sub to use the afte rmarket one ( I would still turn the bass down from the radio that way your stock speakers never blow out), I like my music loud, and I learned no matter how good the stock system is, you will eventually blow one of the speakers out. you can also buy an epiccenter (I think thats what its called) this allows you to control the bass level to the aftermarket sub and will not change anything on your stock, so you can turn the bass on the sub up or down,
Ill post or p.m. you with a list of everything that is needed as soon as I find out.
Speediddy,
Your the bomb. Dang that sounds kinda old now that I said it. Oh well still young at heart and ready to pull up to you younger fellas and cruise to my bumpin system. Really appreciate your efforts in helping me out. This forum rocks!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Aspendog,
I wish I could afford to do all of the stuff that you have done and are planning to do to your ride. I have to wait for a paycheck and buy one piece at a time. It's ok, some day I'll get a raise and make it to assistant manager at Mc Donald's. No really, thanks for your input. It does make more sense to create more passage way for the real bass. The only question, do you lose mid bass by taking the POS out? Maybe keep it and turn the bass on the headunit down? Your words of experience speak volumes.
 

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turbohips said:
Aspendog,
I wish I could afford to do all of the stuff that you have done and are planning to do to your ride. I have to wait for a paycheck and buy one piece at a time. It's ok, some day I'll get a raise and make it to assistant manager at Mc Donald's. No really, thanks for your input. It does make more sense to create more passage way for the real bass. The only question, do you lose mid bass by taking the POS out? Maybe keep it and turn the bass on the headunit down? Your words of experience speak volumes.
The mid-bass in the SG II actually is coming from the doors, the 8" in the rear is for the low bass. I am glad to hear that you will be taking things slow I have seen a few dump $$$ into a car on credit, I applaud you for paying w/ cash. Also, coming from a guy that has lost his ass in show cars, remember to keep all your stock parts so you can return the car to srock if/when you decide to sell it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
aspendog said:
The mid-bass in the SG II actually is coming from the doors, the 8" in the rear is for the low bass. I am glad to hear that you will be taking things slow I have seen a few dump $$$ into a car on credit, I applaud you for paying w/ cash. Also, coming from a guy that has lost his ass in show cars, remember to keep all your stock parts so you can return the car to srock if/when you decide to sell it.
Aspendog,
It's really shear chance that I was not one to dump $$$ into the car. I couldn't get financed. Wow, I can get a car for $44,000 and have a home and bunch of credit cards but get no chance for credit at the local wheel shop.
Just a few more words of wisdom if you please. I'm planning to install only one speaker (like trunk space) and figured a 12" JL should have enough thump to make me happy. Now do I really need to get the JL 1000/1 or something similar or will a 500 watt amp work? OK please one last question, will sound damping really make that much difference? I'm not trying to compete in any sound competitions. Thanks once again.
 

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turbohips said:
Aspendog,
It's really shear chance that I was not one to dump $$$ into the car. I couldn't get financed. Wow, I can get a car for $44,000 and have a home and bunch of credit cards but get no chance for credit at the local wheel shop.
Just a few more words of wisdom if you please. I'm planning to install only one speaker (like trunk space) and figured a 12" JL should have enough thump to make me happy. Now do I really need to get the JL 1000/1 or something similar or will a 500 watt amp work? OK please one last question, will sound damping really make that much difference? I'm not trying to compete in any sound competitions. Thanks once again.
Depends on the sub, If you are talking about a W7 then the 1000w would be needed. If it is a W3 500w would be ok. The dampining material really works, but is is PITA to install (just warning you). It aleviates many rattles that will come with the bass.
 

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Also keep in mind that a sub in a sealed enclosure can handle more power than a ported enclosure. That said if $$ is a problem, put your sub in a ported or even bandpass and you can cheat to a lesser wattage amp.
BTW, good advise Aspendog!
 
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