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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Aftermarket Car Audio Installation

I decided to start this thread so that we can share some experience and knowledge for those considering installing their own Aftermarket Audio equipment. Game on.

wireguysny said:
I didnt change the indash, in fact I think it would be a shame too. I love the factory look!! I used a high end inline adapter to a line converter straight off the deck. However I did put in new Alpine Compenents in the front (they come with the adapter needed) and in the rear deck Infinity Kappa's (best highs in a 6x9). Im running two twelve Blitz's in the rear in a slime box so I can keep my golf clubs in my trunk at all times. I wanted to use the spare tire area for the amps but I hate take any chance, especially with my 20's. I hate to use AAA!!! I used two rockford RF4004 amps and after having over a dozen amps in my life these are simply my fav. They are fairly priced, wonderfull to install and LOOK AWESOME...

The install was a bitch, im not going to lie. This car is built like a tank and it took me about 9 hours to do everything (this is because I am overly carefull). Plus everywhere I went no one had any clue or experience. If anyone has any questions on how to remove and upgrade components I will gladly share my experience. It will make your life MUCH easier. Ill take pictures this week at the car show im in. That way she looks extra nice!!!
Ok, pardon my flurry of questions. :D You're the first person doing any stereo installs yourself that I've seen, so we're on the same page...

I understand that the Boston Soundgroup 2 amp actually has a built in crossover that controls the 6x9s in the front doors (midbass) and the subwoofer in the trunk (lowrange) and the rest it supplies highpass I assume. That considered, do you believe the subwoofer signal inline adapter to be Equalized by the system in any way? I am concerned that tapping into the subwoofer signal in the trunk, will produce an equalized signal and limit the ability of the subs.

Did you put the Alpine components in the front dash? or replace the 6x9s in the doors with components? The 3 speakers in dash, combined with components in place of the front door 6x9s would make for one AMAZING front stage....

I was measuring the trunk this morning, and the rear shock tower 'cross bar' sure does get in the way of a decent sized subwoofer enclosure. I am going to have to get creative with the enclosure to fit 2 15" Elemental Design subs in there height wise. I may end up going with 3 12" Infinity Perfect 12.1s.

Have you dynamatted your trunk yet? Hows the rattles with this car? On top of the trunk there is a "tray" that encloses the stock speakers from the rest of the trunk. Did you keep your rear 6x9s connected or did you remove them to allow the bass to pass through? I was assuming I have to keep the rear tray intact and seal it tightly, to keep the subwoofers from destroying the rear 6x9s via air pressure. Or removing the rear stage completely and just focusing on an impressive front stage.

If you replaced the 3 6.5" speakers in the dash, does the entire dash lift out as one piece? Its scaring the hell out of me to remove that whole dash...

Lots of questions, but you seem to be the only one with the balls to rip your car apart so soon. :D Everyone else seems to have had everything installed. I have never had a professional car audio install done that I liked. Do everything myself now. :mad:
 

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Rogue,
Get a copy of the service manual. It will give you good detailed info on how to pull the dash or any other component. It gives you the location of each screw, retaining clip, etc. and the order in which to pull them out.
Definately worth reading.
 

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I put one 15" sub in the trunk and it sounded like a gorilla gettin' raped,,,,,lots of trunk rattle. I spent a lot of time fixing this problem. I removed the center sub from the rear window to allow the base to come through. I'm in the process of having a bandpass box built that will have a port that will leads up through the hole (center sub).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Daddy Do Rite was the sub fired towards the trunk lid? or towards the seat. I was planning on going with a 15" sub that will fit right between the fenderwells in the trunk. On all my past cars, I have done extensive dynamatting on the outter and inner skins of the trunk lid, floor and sides. Were you able to reduce the rattle to a respectable level? Or is that the reason you are switching to the ported enclosure. I'm a fan of sealed enclosures :)
 

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I'm running 2 12" speakers each in it's on box and firing to the sides. It's not the best solution but it fits perfectly and I can easily get them out if I want my trunk space back for a trip to the store or a vaction.

PS Drive with the back seats down ;)
 

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Just found out on the DodgeMagnum site the the LX cars with the SG11 radio systems are coming in with the 6 disc plus a tape. I still have lots of cassettes that I would like to play. I wonder why they did that?
 

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K, I actually was aware I planned on doing this so I didnt order any upgrade on the audio...in fact I didnt recieve 6x9s in the front. They where 6.5" on a raised molded holder. I can tell though the cutout of a 6x9 exists on it. I used the new alpine 6.5" kit with the 1" soft dome tweeters because this windshield is short and I didnt want to much treble in my ears. The kit also comes with an adapter plate that made it a perfect fit into the chrysler molded holder. The pain is pushing the boot covers on the doors without knocking them all the way off. This way I could fish the wire up to the dash. The first thing you will notice is this car is built like a tank. There is hardly any area or emptyness. I had fiberglass robs thankgod to fish the wires up. It also involved me removing every piece of interior around the door (hate those snaps by the way- BE CAREFULL) to get to the dash. I then ran return under the carpet to the trunk to the larger fold down seat of the car in the rear. I wanted to mount that amp in this location because the amp I used (RF 4004) has all the inputs and connections on the bottom and I could hide all the wires with the carpet flap. Routing cables up to the 6x9 rear deck was a breeze. The hard part is getting to the speakers to take them out. Getting the cover in the trunk off is easy. Be careful when taking out the plastic screws though! As for a box. I love golf and go randomly after work a lot, so I did not want to loose trunk space. For this I used a slim lime dual 12" box. This trunk is tall and long so its easy to find a slim box to fit. I loaded it with two Blitz small box woofers (they pound btw) and mounted the amp to the rear box. Ill try and get pics up this weekend.

I wanted to keep it stock so I used the factory head which puts out a VERY CLEAN signal. I bypassed any factory amp what-so eva and used the factory speaker leads as the output to a line to RCA adapter. Try and use a higher end one though, they really cut out all the hiss and crap. This even has a ground wire which helped isolate any noise.

Overall I have to say that now I turn more heads than before. Most of my friends freak how clean it sounds and how well insulated this car is. The trunk was rattling a lot at first, but a few adjustments a three sheets of dynomat took care of that! Now I have a stock look with tunes to kill!!!
 

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wireguysny said:
K, I actually was aware I planned on doing this so I didnt order any upgrade on the audio...in fact I didnt recieve 6x9s in the front. They where 6.5" on a raised molded holder. I can tell though the cutout of a 6x9 exists on it. I used the new alpine 6.5" kit with the 1" soft dome tweeters because this windshield is short and I didnt want to much treble in my ears. The kit also comes with an adapter plate that made it a perfect fit into the chrysler molded holder. The pain is pushing the boot covers on the doors without knocking them all the way off. This way I could fish the wire up to the dash. The first thing you will notice is this car is built like a tank. There is hardly any area or emptyness. I had fiberglass robs thankgod to fish the wires up. It also involved me removing every piece of interior around the door (hate those snaps by the way- BE CAREFULL) to get to the dash. I then ran return under the carpet to the trunk to the larger fold down seat of the car in the rear. I wanted to mount that amp in this location because the amp I used (RF 4004) has all the inputs and connections on the bottom and I could hide all the wires with the carpet flap. Routing cables up to the 6x9 rear deck was a breeze. The hard part is getting to the speakers to take them out. Getting the cover in the trunk off is easy. Be careful when taking out the plastic screws though! As for a box. I love golf and go randomly after work a lot, so I did not want to loose trunk space. For this I used a slim lime dual 12" box. This trunk is tall and long so its easy to find a slim box to fit. I loaded it with two Blitz small box woofers (they pound btw) and mounted the amp to the rear box. Ill try and get pics up this weekend.

I wanted to keep it stock so I used the factory head which puts out a VERY CLEAN signal. I bypassed any factory amp what-so eva and used the factory speaker leads as the output to a line to RCA adapter. Try and use a higher end one though, they really cut out all the hiss and crap. This even has a ground wire which helped isolate any noise.

Overall I have to say that now I turn more heads than before. Most of my friends freak how clean it sounds and how well insulated this car is. The trunk was rattling a lot at first, but a few adjustments a three sheets of dynomat took care of that! Now I have a stock look with tunes to kill!!!
How easy is it to put in the dynomat? Is that something that I should pay to have done?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
indyCoder said:
How easy is it to put in the dynomat? Is that something that I should pay to have done?
If you feel comfortable yanking all the interior out of your trunk, you will be fine. I did my last car myself with no experience. Removing the panels was the hardest part. Use one of the knockoff sound insulations, Fat Mat, edead, brownbread, instead of dynamat.Dynamat is a ripoff. Make sure you get a roller, and wear some mechanics gloves or something to protect your hands from the sharp metal layer. I cut the hell out of my hands all over last time I did it. :p

I haven't taken a look at my trunk lid without the panels yet, but I imagine they are the same as many other cars. You should dynamat the outter skin of the trunk lid first as much as you can, then apply the inner skin or even seal the holes with it. After dynamatting my entire trunk, I found the bass response amazing compared to what it was before. Super clean. I still had quite a few rattles and ended up dynamatting the license plate, and the lamp fixture above the plate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
wireguysny said:
Overall I have to say that now I turn more heads than before. Most of my friends freak how clean it sounds and how well insulated this car is. The trunk was rattling a lot at first, but a few adjustments a three sheets of dynomat took care of that! Now I have a stock look with tunes to kill!!!
Thanks for all the great info. I had considered going with no audio upgrades myself, but the car I found had Sound Group 2. I think I will be keeping the Sound Group 2 Amp for the highs, and replacing the speakers with Infinity Kappas all around. Supplement that with a Adire Brahma 15" with 1500watts and a TON of dynamat and it should be superclean.

These cars are layed out quite nicely for car audio. It has me excited.

I'm going to have to insulate my front doors to tighten them up a bit. The panels rattle and flex too much for my liking when the 6x9s kick under heavy bass.

Has anyone removed the front 3.5" Speakers yet or taken a look. I got the service manual per JonW's recomendation, but the instructions on speaker removal are rather vague. I assume the speaker grill just pops off and voila? I hope... :D
 

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inSTALLING aftermarlet deck must read!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:!: I just finished putting my in dash pioneer tv in the 300 it use the 04 Dodge Durango mounting kit and the chrysler dodge 2002-up wiring harnees you also need the 02 and up chrysler attena adapter.. THE MAIN THING ABOUT THE INSTALL IS WHEN YOU ARE WIRING UP THE HARNEES THE ACCESSORIE WIRE FROM CHRYSLER IS NOT 12 VOLTS MEANING YOU WIL NOT GET POWER TO YOUR DECK. YOU CAN DO 1 OF 3 THINGS YOU CAN TIE THE ACCESSORIE WIRE FROM YOUR DECK TO YOUR IGNITION WIRE, GET A RELAY AND UP THE VOLTAGE TO 12 OR THE MOST SIMPLE IS JUST TIE IT IN THE WITH THE CONSTANT FROM THE RADIO (THE YELLOW) WIRE ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS MAKE SURE YOU TURN THE RADIO OFF OTHERWISE IT WILL STAY ON 24/7
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
300 on 22s thanks for this info. I've heard about that accessory wire being a pain. Crutchfield recommends wiring it to the fuse box so that the radio will turn on when the car is turned on or in accessory mode.

The mounting kit info is good news. Thanks. Where are the pix!
 

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i have to take some and post em no problem ya i might run it to the radio fuse well c tho
 

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can u send me the link to the crutchfield thing u read about
 

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daddy_do_rite said:
I put one 15" sub in the trunk and it sounded like a gorilla gettin' raped,,,,,lots of trunk rattle. I spent a lot of time fixing this problem. I removed the center sub from the rear window to allow the base to come through. I'm in the process of having a bandpass box built that will have a port that will leads up through the hole (center sub).
have you completed your box? do you have pictures? I want to do the same thing, build a port to come out at the sub whole on the deck.
 

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JonW said:
Rogue,
Get a copy of the service manual. It will give you good detailed info on how to pull the dash or any other component. It gives you the location of each screw, retaining clip, etc. and the order in which to pull them out.
Definately worth reading.
Service manual??? Boy, I could have saved some time and aggravation! hehe
 

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daddy_do_rite said:
I put one 15" sub in the trunk and it sounded like a gorilla gettin' raped,,,,,lots of trunk rattle. I spent a lot of time fixing this problem. I removed the center sub from the rear window to allow the base to come through. I'm in the process of having a bandpass box built that will have a port that will leads up through the hole (center sub).
Just remember that the length of the port (inside or out of the box) must all be calculated and added to the overall specs.
 
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